Need help wiring these 3-way Vizia switches

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  #1  
Old 11-13-13, 06:04 PM
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Need help wiring these 3-way Vizia switches

I have two. One is a VP00R-10 and one is a VP00R-1L.

VP00R-10 has YL/RD, BK, WH, RD and Ground.

VP00R-1L has YL/RD, BL, WH, and Ground.

The first box Im trying to put the VP00R-1L in has a regular switch with a Red, Ground and TWO black wires on it. One of those blacks is labeled 'common'.


How do I get this switch hooked up?

How do I hooked up the VP00R-10 in the other box with presumably similar wiring? That switch has a YL/RD AND a RD...no clue why. I don't really understand the directions or the dimmer switches I guess.

Also have a VP106 if I need it. I DO NOT UNDERSTAND these dimmer, matching dimmer, coordinating dimmer BS.
 

Last edited by agdodge4x4; 11-13-13 at 06:57 PM.
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  #2  
Old 11-13-13, 06:56 PM
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First things first. MARK the common wire at both ends. This is a must.

I'm assuming you are using the dimmers without the LED's.
Make sure circuit is turned off before wiring dimmers.

At each end..... the common wire that you marked will go to the black terminals.
Your traveler colors shouldn't change.
Connect the red wire at each end to the RD terminal.
Connect the remaining black wire at each end to the YL/RD terminal.

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  #3  
Old 11-13-13, 07:07 PM
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OK. Will do. Thank you. Id like to use the switches with LED readouts if possible.
 
  #4  
Old 11-13-13, 07:17 PM
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Then you will have a whole lot more work. You will have to determine which switch has the feed in it and which switch is the load.

That means turn the circuit off. Take out both switches and remove the common wire from each switch. Check from that wire to ground. The end that shows 120vac is the feed end.

The wiring changes from the above post. It gets complicated.
The end that has power will get the remote switch.
The dimmer goes to the load end.

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  #5  
Old 11-13-13, 07:37 PM
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First, lets start with your post with no LED.

For these switches, I need a regular single pole or three way dimmer (VP106) and the other can be either another VP106 or VP00R-1L or VP00R-10?

That means turn the circuit off. Take out both switches and remove the common wire from each switch. Check from that wire to ground. The end that shows 120vac is the feed end.
That's easy. I use my non-contact voltage tester for this kind of thing ALL the time.
 
  #6  
Old 11-13-13, 07:44 PM
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OK, I finally found the sheet. (Leviton was NOT as helpful on finding it as I would have liked!) Anyway,

The first box Im trying to put the VP00R-1L in has a regular switch with a Red, Ground and TWO black wires on it. One of those blacks is labeled 'common'.
I don't see LEDs on these switches, so we don't have to worry about those, right? OK.

I have two. One is a VP00R-10 and one is a VP00R-1L.

VP00R-10 has YL/RD, BK, WH, RD and Ground.

VP00R-1L has YL/RD, BL, WH, and Ground.
If so, for the VP00R-1L, tag the black wire that's labeled "common" and remove the old switch. Connect the ground wires in the box to the ground on the new switch. Connect the tagged common wire to the black (BK) lead. Connect one of the two traveler wires to the red lead, and note what color you connected. Connect the other traveler wire to the yellow/red lead and note its color too. Don't connect the white lead to anything. Just cap it off.

Do the same on the VP00R-10, except that you consult your notes an connect the travelers to the leads that match the ones you used on the other switch.
 
  #7  
Old 11-13-13, 07:49 PM
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The VP00R-1L has LED as does the VP106. You can check the below post before going into detail about them. Im still really confused about these three switches and what their intended purpose is and how they are functionally different from each other.
 
  #8  
Old 11-13-13, 07:51 PM
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First, lets start with your post with no LED.

For these switches, I need a regular single pole or three way dimmer (VP106) and the other can be either another VP106 or VP00R-1L or VP00R-10?
As far as I can tell you can use the two switches you already have.

Id like to use the switches with LED readouts if possible.
Those switches need a neutral. Do you have a neutral in each switch box?
 
  #9  
Old 11-13-13, 08:00 PM
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That's easy. I use my non-contact voltage tester for this kind of thing ALL the time.
And it may or may not be correct. An analog multimeter will give you an accurate reading. You can end up chasing the wild goose if you rely on the non contact tester. They are easily fooled by induced, ghost, currents.
 
  #10  
Old 11-13-13, 08:40 PM
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The VP00R-1L has LED as does the VP106.
I don't see LED on the VP00R-1LZ. I do see LED on the VP106-1LW.

Regardless, you'll need a neutral for the LED to work. Do you have that?

Im still really confused about these three switches and what their intended purpose is and how they are functionally different from each other.
From what I can tell, you need to use a VP00R-1LZ and a VP00R-10Z together to get coordinated dimming from both locations. The instruction sheet I'm looking at addresses those switches. It does not reference or include the VP106-1LW.
 
  #11  
Old 11-13-13, 08:56 PM
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I don't see LED on the VP00R-1LZ. I do see LED on the VP106-1LW.
Its RIGHT above the up and down arrows...that clear area is LED. Fortunately, I have neutrals in ALL of the boxes in question.

From what I can tell, you need to use a VP00R-1LZ and a VP00R-10Z together to get coordinated dimming from both locations. The instruction sheet I'm looking at addresses those switches. It does not reference or include the VP106-1LW.

I don't know. From the single sentence in the directions, I am thinking the VP106 is the 'dimmer', and you must have ONE of those. From there, either the coordinating or matching remote will work with it? I am deducing that also because they make no mention of a coordinating remote and a matching remote tied together. They only reference wiring for a 'dimmer' and EITHER the cooerdinating or matching remote...depending on whether it has LED's? I really don't know though. I may call Leviton tomorrow for more info on what in the heck their differences are. Its incredibly vague.

And it may or may not be correct. An analog multimeter will give you an accurate reading. You can end up chasing the wild goose if you rely on the non contact tester. They are easily fooled by induced, ghost, currents.
I know. I have experienced it before. My Klein version is much better than my older GB...that thing would beep if you just bumped it funny. Ill keep that in mind. The wires are long, I can get them well outside of the box to minimize inductive errors....im just not comfortable with direct contact with a multimeter. Ive done it before...but i don't like to. LOL.
 
  #12  
Old 11-13-13, 09:19 PM
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Oh, are you talking about the green find-it-in-the-dark LED? OK. Good that you have the neutrals.

I may call Leviton tomorrow for more info on what in the heck their differences are. Its incredibly vague.
Please do, and let us all know what you find out.
 
  #13  
Old 11-14-13, 09:19 AM
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OK, I called them. For this setup, it requires ONE VPI06, and EITHER the coordinating or matching remote. Coordinating vs. matching refers to the LED only, and of course requires slightly different wiring. You can have up to 4 matching remotes and up to 9 coordinating remotes with the VPI06.

Sheesh....

So, I will wire accordingly. Thanks guys!

FYI....the VPI06 is compatible with RF switches. So you could have the VPI06 on the circuit that controls teh lights, and then add an RF switch to any other box with a hot wire, and it will communicate. I don't have that part number.
 
  #14  
Old 11-14-13, 01:23 PM
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Also, as noted below in the diagrams...the VPI06 (DIMMER) MUST go on the LINE side. The COORDINATING or MATCHING REMOTE goes on the load side.
 
  #15  
Old 11-14-13, 04:58 PM
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Quite a confusing issue..... glad you got to the bottom of it.
 
  #16  
Old 11-14-13, 07:08 PM
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Now that I know what they had in mind, all the instructions and the stuff you guys put here makes perfect sense. LOL. Oh well, maybe itll help someone else out. Thanks everyone!
 
  #17  
Old 11-25-13, 09:37 AM
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Well, I have f---ed up. I labeled both commons and took off the switches. Neither end of the common had any voltage, so I figured I needed to leave all the other wires in tact. So I put them back. Now, only one switch turns the lights on and the other switch does nothing. Im talking about the orignal non vizia switches. Did I get a wire mixed? if so...please help me get it back. I have a labeled common wire, an additional black wire and a red wire in each box. I have a black terminal labeled common, and then two additional terminals...neither with any identification.


I hooked up both switches identically. Common is in common, black is on oppostie side of common and the red is on the terminal up top.

With all of the wires loose, I have one HOT wire when the power is turned on. It is NOT labeled common though.
 
  #18  
Old 11-25-13, 09:43 AM
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The wire on the common is the only one that matters. The travelers are interchangeable. Most likely the black and red out of one cable are the travelers. The other black is the common.
 
  #19  
Old 11-25-13, 09:45 AM
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Well, Im not sure how to get it hooked back up now. I have a single HOT wire when its powered up. THats hot from the panel. Where does that wire go? ALl the whites are nutted together in the box.
 
  #20  
Old 11-25-13, 09:49 AM
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Try on the common.

....................
 
  #21  
Old 11-25-13, 10:04 AM
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Got it. Damn.

Had both commons mislabeled. Ugh.

OK....Thanks! The electrician used the back stab terminals and I misread their locations.
 
  #22  
Old 11-25-13, 10:21 AM
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Now, I need to wire this thing according to the SECOND diagram. I have two switches with LED. However, I have no white, Ill have to pigtail that to the remote switch. Also, I have TWO blacks and a red. There is not provision for that in that diagram. Is one of them going to be unused?
 
  #23  
Old 11-25-13, 12:00 PM
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Got the new dimmers installed. All is well.
 
  #24  
Old 11-25-13, 12:23 PM
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Good. Thanks for letting us know.
 
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