Help McGyvering In A Disconnect

I have a man cave in the basement and I would like to take a 30A disconnect and use it to control the lights. Why? Because I can and I think it will look menacing and bad***.
However I would like to leave the existing 2104 box in tact along with the loomex inside in case the next occupant thinks "who is the moron that put this thing up???". I need ideas on how I can mount the disconnect over top of the existing switch box, and run my wires through the back without breaking any rules.
I'm thinking if I drill and tap some small holes for 6-32 screws and pit a 1/2" chase nipple in the middle, the disconnect and box are now connected and the wires protected from abrasion.
Aaaaaaand go....

 

Gut the disconnect, mount a wp box inside it running your cable from the back. Would that work?

 

1. Wire nut extensions to your wires. Mount this, backwards,

http://www.tnb.com/ps/fulltilt/index.cgi?part=58C6

with the extensions coming through the knockout.

2. Mount a short 1/2" nipple to the back of the disconnect. (metal nipples must have anti short bushings at both ends.)

3. Thread extensions through the nipple. Slide nipple into hole. Screw disconnect to wall.

 

Glenn, I think that is exactly what I'm going to do.
The handy box cover will still be raised off the wall a bit, but I've seen square d disconnects that have 4 little indents protruding from the back of the box which would still get the box flush with the wall.

 

How to make and use a PVC nipple that won't need anti short bushings.

Buy a 1/2" PVC male adapter.

Carlon, 1/2 in. Terminal Adapter, E943D-CTN at The Home Depot - Tablet

Look down the end that conduit would normally be glued into. Find the ledge. Measure inside to the ledge from that same end. Cut off that much, so that the ledge is still attached to the threads. You should be left with a threaded section with a flange. Sand any sharp edges or use a razor knife.

Remove a 1/2" knockout from the back of your disconnect. From inside the disconnect, slide the threads through the hole. Use a locknut to secure the nipple.

The threads should stick out the back of the disconnect, secured by the locknut.

 

That's why I said mount it backwards. Hopefully, instead of raised, it will be recessed a bit. That will leave room for the locknut.

 

The box turned out flush with the wall so it will stick out a bit either way. Easy workaround though. And the 1/2'' TA is a great idea!
Glenn gets a Macgyver award.