Understanding Light Fixture Wiring
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Understanding Light Fixture Wiring
I replaced a light fixture. Everything is working, but I want to understand the wiring in the ceiling box.
The old (and new) fixture is bundled with 2 other white wires. There are no white wires in either switch box (3 way). What are the two white (neutral I presume) wires in the ceiling connected with the fixture white.
Why isnt there just one neutral in the ceiling box?
The old (and new) fixture is bundled with 2 other white wires. There are no white wires in either switch box (3 way). What are the two white (neutral I presume) wires in the ceiling connected with the fixture white.
Why isnt there just one neutral in the ceiling box?
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The light is controlled by a pair of 3 way switches which I also replaced. In each switch box there was only 3 wires... at one a red on common, and a pair of oranges on travelers. At other switch was a yellow on common and the pair of oranges on travelers.
In ceiling box there was the yellow (hot) connected to fixture hot. And the pair of whites connected to fixture wire white. There was also the oranges passing thru the box and perhaps a red or black tucked in the back that I didnt touch.
So what are the pair of neutrals? It wouldnt be power in power out in this case.
And if you can guess what the wires were that were tucked in the back.
Thanks
In ceiling box there was the yellow (hot) connected to fixture hot. And the pair of whites connected to fixture wire white. There was also the oranges passing thru the box and perhaps a red or black tucked in the back that I didnt touch.
So what are the pair of neutrals? It wouldnt be power in power out in this case.
And if you can guess what the wires were that were tucked in the back.
Thanks
#5
The circuit requires two parts to operate. A hot to each device and a path back to the panel. The neutrals follow the path of the hots.
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pcboss
The circuit requires two parts to operate. A hot to each device and a path back to the panel. The neutrals follow the path of the hots.
The circuit requires two parts to operate. A hot to each device and a path back to the panel. The neutrals follow the path of the hots.
ANd if that is the case, did I make a mistake by not pigtailing a length of wire so removing the fixture doesnt interupt power to the rest of the circuit?
#7
Removing the white fixture wire will only interrupt the circuit if the other two whites become disconnected.
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What you did was fine. A pigtail would have just added another splice that was unnecessary.

The old fixture was hooked up the same way. Someone used the orange wirenuts that came with the fixture to make that connection (2x#14 and 18 fixture).... I dont think that was the right nut for that though? I used a yellow wirenut instead.... hopefully that was the right choice.
THe old neutral wires looked very corroded under that orange nut, almost black silverish color. I snipped them back for the new light.
#11
Someone used the orange wirenuts that came with the fixture to make that connection (2x#14 and 18 fixture).... I dont think that was the right nut for that though? I used a yellow wirenut instead.... hopefully that was the right choice.
THe old neutral wires looked very corroded under that orange nut, almost black silverish color. I snipped them back for the new light.
THe old neutral wires looked very corroded under that orange nut, almost black silverish color. I snipped them back for the new light.
That's not all bad, because there'd also be fewer house fires.

The house neutral comes to the ceiling box and is spliced there to continue to another load. There doesn't appear to be a neutral in either of your switch boxes, but that's OK. In your case, with individual conductors in conduit, one can be added if and when it's needed - and that meets the current code requirement.