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Meter/breaker combo: romex through meter section into breaker section allowable?

Meter/breaker combo: romex through meter section into breaker section allowable?

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  #1  
Old 12-06-13, 06:03 PM
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Meter/breaker combo: romex through meter section into breaker section allowable?

Secondly, I'm interested to know what bushings/orifice treatments to use.
My impression is that the holes to be made in the rear of the panel need clamps, and the hole in the divider wall would need plastic bushings. Note: romex is trimmed just after it exits the wall, and the conductors which would pass through the center divider would the the black, white, and ground conductors which were contained within the romex jacket.Name:  wall.jpg
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Thirdly, the red blotches are intended screw holes which I'd like to drill and use in order to attach the panel to the wall. Is this okay?
Location: sacramento, california. Within city limits.


Any help would be greatly appreciated. The building department doesn't like to answer questions about its own requirements
 
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  #2  
Old 12-06-13, 06:20 PM
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Are you sure that your panel is approved by your power company? Our power companies that serve MN require meter sockets to have a bypass handle.

As far as the branch circuits being in the meter space, I do not believe this is allowed. Again, I think this is a requirement of the power company because if you need to access the branch circuits, you would have to cut the PoCo seal. I suggest calling them about both issues. They should be more helpful than the building dept.

My impression is that the holes to be made in the rear of the panel need clamps, and the hole in the divider wall would need plastic bushings
All you need is to connect the conduits to the steel cabinet with locknuts. Bushings are not required, but you can use them if you choose.
 
  #3  
Old 12-06-13, 06:36 PM
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Thank you, Tolyn

Fairly certain that it's approved for the area. It was sold over at a local home depot. The area in which I'm depicting the conductors being is actually accessible without removing the meter because there's a separate door there.

This is the product: Square D by Schneider Electric 100 Amp 16-Space 24-Circuit Outdoor Surface Mount Main Breaker Combination Service Entrance Device-SC1624M100S at The Home Depot

This is the door location...but note that there's no physical divider between the door area and the meter area
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  #4  
Old 12-06-13, 06:51 PM
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This is the door location...but note that there's no physical divider between the door area and the meter area
Look at the latch on the door and you'll see a small hole for a seal and a larger hole for a padlock, this is the metering section that will be sealed by the power company. I can almost guarantee you the power company will not allow the customer's branch circuits to pass through this section. Call the power company and ask them before you try to install.

Why can't you move the whole enclosure to the left far enough for the conduits to enter at the bottom of the panelboard section?
 
  #5  
Old 12-06-13, 06:52 PM
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Sadly just because it is sold in your area, does not mean it is approved. Been there, done that.

The part on the door that you slide down is normally where the PoCo puts their seal. The seal is so people do not tap onto the wires before the meter and steal power. That is why there is two separate compartments in the panel.

Can't you just shift the panel to the left?
 
  #6  
Old 12-06-13, 06:58 PM
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I agree with the others that you should move the panel to the left and come into the breaker section.
 
  #7  
Old 12-06-13, 07:07 PM
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Thanks, guys

I'm really fortunate to be getting answers here! I tried to get ahold of so many people today with no success..

I'm convinced now that it's a space for the power company and is not to be used. Thank you all for chiming in here.

In order to cover up the ugly wooden board behind the previous meter, I'd like to move it to the left, but it'd work best if I was able to slice the aluminum breaker tabs shorter along the green lines depicted, as well as the plastic behind it. Is this allowable? Note that it would leave knockouts above spaces which could no longer accept breakers..
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Alternatively, I might slice the plastic only, but leave at least as much clearance as they do at the top end of the plastic, and then punch holes as indicated here?
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  #8  
Old 12-06-13, 09:25 PM
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Do not cut the bus bars. You would void any listing the panel has.
 
  #9  
Old 12-06-13, 10:01 PM
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How about moving the panel up and installing a trough where the conduits come out of the wall? Use a chase nipple between the trough and the panel side.
 
  #10  
Old 12-07-13, 07:02 AM
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I would avoid modifying the panel if possible, but the option of cutting the plastic is WAY better than cutting the bus bars. You still might void the warranty, which is not good.

It appears that the conduits are just sleeving the NM cable, can you just pull out the conduits and discard them and then reroute the cable to the large knockout on the lower left the the wiring compartment? If you can, just be sure to bush the KO that the cables are going through. You could also open the wall to help you reroute the cables. Any damage you do will be covered by the new panel. You might be able to move the cables to the upper part of the panel if the cables go up the wall. This is likely if your house is slab on grade.
 
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