outlet proper wiring

Reply

  #1  
Old 12-27-13, 09:39 PM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: USA
Posts: 5
outlet proper wiring

I'm replacing older 15AMP outlets with 15AMP TR models around the house (they are on a 15AMP breaker).

Quick question.

S1=Silver top screw
S2=Silver bottom screw
B1=Brass top screw
B2=Brass bottom screw
W1(2)BL = Wire 1(2)-Black
W1(2)WH = Wire 1(2)-White

Here's how it's currently wired (and it works)
OUTLET 2 (fed from OUTLET 1)
S1-W2BL B1-W1WH
S2-W1BL B2-W2WH

OUTLET 1
S1-W1WH [runs to nearby ceiling box] B1-W2BL[feeds OUTLET 2, W2BL]
S2-W2WH[feeds OUTLET 2, W2WH] B2-W1BL

Is the above "ok"?

Or should it be like this?

OUTLET 1
S1-W1WH [runs to nearby ceiling box] B1-W1BL
S2-W2WH [feeds OUTLET 2, W2WH] B2-W2BL [feeds OUTLET 2, W2WH]

OUTLET 2
S1-W1WH B1-W1BL
S2-W2WH B2-W2BL
 
Sponsored Links
  #2  
Old 12-27-13, 11:24 PM
Member
Join Date: Dec 2013
Posts: 138
Receptacles have no top or bottom (or left or right if mounted horizontally) so the only thing that is important with non GFCI receptacles (outlets can also be lights) is grounded conductor (neutral) on silver and ungrounded conductor (hot) on brass. Within a given screws color wires are interchangeable between the two screws.
 
  #3  
Old 12-28-13, 05:32 AM
chandler's Avatar
Banned. Rule And/Or Policy Violation
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: USA
Posts: 39,968
The best way to do it (if doing a direct replacement) is wire for wire, and never use stab backs, and only one wire per screw. Neutral (white) to silver screw, and Hot (black or red) to gold screw. Grounding conductor to green is understood. Both silver screws are tied together so it doesn't matter which wire goes where. NOW, if you have a receptacle that is switch controlled (usually with a red wire) the tab between the two gold screws will be broken, so look for that as you go along.
Sorry, I couldn't follow your description. But the answer was simple.
 
  #4  
Old 12-28-13, 07:21 AM
Banned. Rule And/Or Policy Violation
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: USA
Posts: 4,297
Your not planning on just swapping out old 2 prongs for three prongs are you?
Is there a ground?
 
  #5  
Old 12-29-13, 08:34 PM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: USA
Posts: 5
Existing outlets are 3 prong with no ground. They were that way when we moved in and home inspection passed. Putting in three prong TR type. Am also planning to put in GFCI to the first outlet on that circuit as part of the project.

Some of the wall switches have a Sears logo on them, so I'm guessing the outlets are old as well.

I've also been "standardizing" the wiring. Top set of screws means wiring is fed from/runs to left. Bottom screws means wiring is fed from/runs to right. I've been tracing the wiring to know exactly which wire runs where by disconnecting all the wires in a given box (whole circuit at once) and connecting a 25 foot 16 gauge wire to the hot line and using my multimeter at the other end to test for continuity. I've got most of my upstairs home mapped out now doing that.
 
  #6  
Old 12-29-13, 08:37 PM
pcboss's Avatar
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Maryland
Posts: 14,587
Just be sure to add the GFI protection and use the No Equipment Ground stickers.
 
Reply

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Display Modes