outlet proper wiring


Old 12-27-13, 09:39 PM
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outlet proper wiring

I'm replacing older 15AMP outlets with 15AMP TR models around the house (they are on a 15AMP breaker).

Quick question.

S1=Silver top screw
S2=Silver bottom screw
B1=Brass top screw
B2=Brass bottom screw
W1(2)BL = Wire 1(2)-Black
W1(2)WH = Wire 1(2)-White

Here's how it's currently wired (and it works)
OUTLET 2 (fed from OUTLET 1)

S1-W1WH [runs to nearby ceiling box] B1-W2BL[feeds OUTLET 2, W2BL]
S2-W2WH[feeds OUTLET 2, W2WH] B2-W1BL

Is the above "ok"?

Or should it be like this?

S1-W1WH [runs to nearby ceiling box] B1-W1BL
S2-W2WH [feeds OUTLET 2, W2WH] B2-W2BL [feeds OUTLET 2, W2WH]

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Old 12-27-13, 11:24 PM
Join Date: Dec 2013
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Receptacles have no top or bottom (or left or right if mounted horizontally) so the only thing that is important with non GFCI receptacles (outlets can also be lights) is grounded conductor (neutral) on silver and ungrounded conductor (hot) on brass. Within a given screws color wires are interchangeable between the two screws.
Old 12-28-13, 05:32 AM
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The best way to do it (if doing a direct replacement) is wire for wire, and never use stab backs, and only one wire per screw. Neutral (white) to silver screw, and Hot (black or red) to gold screw. Grounding conductor to green is understood. Both silver screws are tied together so it doesn't matter which wire goes where. NOW, if you have a receptacle that is switch controlled (usually with a red wire) the tab between the two gold screws will be broken, so look for that as you go along.
Sorry, I couldn't follow your description. But the answer was simple.
Old 12-28-13, 07:21 AM
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Your not planning on just swapping out old 2 prongs for three prongs are you?
Is there a ground?
Old 12-29-13, 08:34 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2013
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Existing outlets are 3 prong with no ground. They were that way when we moved in and home inspection passed. Putting in three prong TR type. Am also planning to put in GFCI to the first outlet on that circuit as part of the project.

Some of the wall switches have a Sears logo on them, so I'm guessing the outlets are old as well.

I've also been "standardizing" the wiring. Top set of screws means wiring is fed from/runs to left. Bottom screws means wiring is fed from/runs to right. I've been tracing the wiring to know exactly which wire runs where by disconnecting all the wires in a given box (whole circuit at once) and connecting a 25 foot 16 gauge wire to the hot line and using my multimeter at the other end to test for continuity. I've got most of my upstairs home mapped out now doing that.
Old 12-29-13, 08:37 PM
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Just be sure to add the GFI protection and use the No Equipment Ground stickers.

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