Offset mud ring - improvise

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  #1  
Old 01-06-14, 03:59 PM
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Offset mud ring - improvise

I am moving some electrical around and one box (4in sq) has the outlet centered. I need the outlet over an inch or so due to a cabinet being installed. I've seen offset 1 gang rings online, but not locally at big box stores.

My question is, is there anyway to rig one? Like with a 2 gang ring + something else to cover the right side?

How bad is it to just leave the one side open? By open, I mean there will be drywall and a cabinet over it, just no metal covering the right half of the box.
 
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Old 01-06-14, 07:13 PM
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What is the wiring method? EMT, Romex, AC/BX/MC, Flex conduit?

IF it is a metallic wiring method, I would pull the box out and install a deep wall case like this:

[ATTACH=CONFIG]24263[/ATTACH]

That is if there is not too many wires in it.
 
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Old 01-06-14, 07:26 PM
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Even though the big-box stores may not carry it, I'm sure you could get one at a local electric supply house.
 
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Old 01-06-14, 08:40 PM
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Like with a 2 gang ring + something else to cover the right side?
Yes. Change the mudring to a 2-gang, put the switch on one side. Use a 2-gang sectional plate for one switch and one blank. I have two of them in my kitchen.

Sectional | by Legrand
 
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Old 01-06-14, 09:57 PM
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How bad is it to just leave the one side open? By open, I mean there will be drywall and a cabinet over it, just no metal covering the right half of the box.
That would not be good. The wiring, splices and devices have to be enclosed in an accessible, approved enclosure that is rated to retard the spread of any fire that they might start. Especially the splices and devices.

In addition to the sectional cover plates suggested by CJ, you could use a standard wall plate with a switch blank in place of the second switch or a 2-gang cover with only one opening.

One problem with using any 2-gang plate is that it will be on the face of the wall and you'll have to cut the back of the cabinet to fit it in. Another problem is that you'll have to remove the cabinet to open the box, so the enclosure would not be accessible. That would also be true if you used the offset mud ring you have in mind.

I would replace the existing 1900 box with a seep single-gang old work box, as suggested by Tolyn. They are available for use with any type of wiring, including Type NM (Romex).
 
  #6  
Old 01-07-14, 08:12 AM
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The problem is the box is connected to solid conduit. To remove the box and install a single gang will require ripping out a big section of drywall and replacing/rebending the conduit to direct it to the new box.

Seems like a lot of work. Sometimes there is a right way and a close enough way in my opinion. Some places allow romex to be used. I don't see how a dual gang box with both sides covered is a risk.
 
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Old 01-07-14, 11:08 AM
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The problem is the box is connected to solid conduit.
Ah. You hadn't included your city in your location information, so we didn't know you were in Chicago. This would be a good time to update that.

Sometimes there is a right way and a close enough way in my opinion.
There is often more than one way to do something. Any option can be chosen from the options available. So long as the chosen option is in compliance with all locally adopted codes, it is acceptable.

Chicago, for good reason, has some of the strictest codes in America.

I don't see how a dual gang box with both sides covered is a risk.
It isn't. As posted earlier, an approved box with an approved cover is an approved installation. That still leaves the challenge of keeping the conduit in place without opening the wall and, at the same time, leaving the box accessible.

I'm back to CJ's suggestion of using a sectional cover. If the cabinet can be hung so that it leaves the piece of the sectional cover for the switch removable, that might satisfy the requirement and your inspector.
 
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Old 01-07-14, 12:02 PM
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Because the Wiring Method is a raceway, either steel conduit or tubing, I'll presume the outlet box is 4" square box with KO's on all four sides.

This being so , you could use a nipple to couple a second box to the existing box , and if there is enough conductor lenth to reach the "extension-box" , there will be no connections in the existing box that are required to be accessible , so you can blank the existing box and then conceal it.

It's also possible to pull in new conductors of sufficient lenth to eliminate the existing connections.
 
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Old 01-07-14, 04:39 PM
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If you are ok with a little patching, you could move the 4x4 and use an EMT to flex connector, along with some flex, to reach the box's new location. Might have to pull in new wire though if you do not have enough in the box.
 
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