BX vs Romex 10-2, 75 foot run
#1
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Thread Starter
BX vs Romex 10-2, 75 foot run
Tomorrow morning, the sledge hammer swings and I will gut the upper bathroom.
I want to use this chance to run some 10-2 up to a wall panel (sub-panel) on the second floor that powers all the ceiling lights and some wall plugs.
BX is about half the cost of Romex, on a 75 foot run, the savings is about $60.00.
Is there any reason why I should not go with the BX over the Romex?
The routing is along the basement wall in the ceiling with easy access, up a service chamber to the second floor, into the bathroom wall to the second floor ceiling, to the shared bathroom/storage room wall to a new panel I will install to remove an old 2 fuse panel in favor of a Square D unit.
I want to use this chance to run some 10-2 up to a wall panel (sub-panel) on the second floor that powers all the ceiling lights and some wall plugs.
BX is about half the cost of Romex, on a 75 foot run, the savings is about $60.00.
Is there any reason why I should not go with the BX over the Romex?
The routing is along the basement wall in the ceiling with easy access, up a service chamber to the second floor, into the bathroom wall to the second floor ceiling, to the shared bathroom/storage room wall to a new panel I will install to remove an old 2 fuse panel in favor of a Square D unit.
#2
10-2 will give you one circuit. I'd run 8-3 w/G romex to a small subpanel. You said you have two circuits there now, 8-3 will provide you enough power for easily 4 to 6 circuits. At the minimum, I'd use 12-3 w/G for a multiwire branch circuit (2 - 120 volt 20 amp circuits). There is no need to use #10 wire for individual circuits.
I wouldn't use it for residential work unless I had special circumstances. MC or AC cable requires special connectors and can only be used with metal boxes.
Is there any reason why I should not go with the BX over the Romex?
#4
I would just run a MWBC or two cables to the bathroom. You would need clearance if you installed a panel.
#5
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Thread Starter
I never though about running one wire and expanding the existing config.
I wish I had posted earlier. :-(
CasualJoe, Not sure why I never thought of that, I could be missing a great chance to move the breaker for the new line in the bathroom from the basement to my daughter's apt on the top level.
I have already installed a new 15 amp breaker and run wire to the bathroom to install a GFCI as there is no plug in the bathroom now.
The 10-2 was to replace a 30amp line in, that splits to two 15 amp circuits (front half and rear half of the home).
I have already replaced the same unit and the wiring to it on the lower level.
The bathroom shares a wall with the storage room and the panel has a fuse that is loose and wobbly, so I want to swap it out for a box with breakers since I am 95 percent of the way there anyway while tearing down the backside wall.
I guess I could install a 40 amp breaker on the main panel, bring 8-3 up, install a third breaker in the wall panel and have the bathroom GFCI running to the new upper level wall panel?
Sorry PCboss, I don't understand the reference to clearance?
I was surprised too, it is almost $2.50 per meter (3 feet) less for the BX. I need about 22 meters, so approx 55 dollars less.
I wish I had posted earlier. :-(
CasualJoe, Not sure why I never thought of that, I could be missing a great chance to move the breaker for the new line in the bathroom from the basement to my daughter's apt on the top level.
I have already installed a new 15 amp breaker and run wire to the bathroom to install a GFCI as there is no plug in the bathroom now.
The 10-2 was to replace a 30amp line in, that splits to two 15 amp circuits (front half and rear half of the home).
I have already replaced the same unit and the wiring to it on the lower level.
The bathroom shares a wall with the storage room and the panel has a fuse that is loose and wobbly, so I want to swap it out for a box with breakers since I am 95 percent of the way there anyway while tearing down the backside wall.
I guess I could install a 40 amp breaker on the main panel, bring 8-3 up, install a third breaker in the wall panel and have the bathroom GFCI running to the new upper level wall panel?
PCboss
You would need clearance if you installed a panel.
You would need clearance if you installed a panel.
Tolyn Ironhand
It would be odd that 10/2 AC/MC/BX would be less expensive than Romex as normally Romex is the one of the least expensive wiring methods. Are you sure the numbers were correct?
It would be odd that 10/2 AC/MC/BX would be less expensive than Romex as normally Romex is the one of the least expensive wiring methods. Are you sure the numbers were correct?
Last edited by Kiton; 01-17-14 at 08:44 PM.
#6
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I agree , I would run 8/3 W/G or , If I could afford it , 6/3 W/G .
I would use BX or Romex , or what ever is cheapest . The metal connectors for the BX is a minor issue .
If you run # 10 , at least run 10/3 W/G .
I would have to brush up on the requirements for arc-fault protection .
God bless
Wyr
I would use BX or Romex , or what ever is cheapest . The metal connectors for the BX is a minor issue .
If you run # 10 , at least run 10/3 W/G .
I would have to brush up on the requirements for arc-fault protection .
God bless
Wyr
#7
Not sure about the CEC, but the NEC would require a 20 amp circuit for the bathroom receptacle.
Panels need space around to to ensure a safe work zone.
Panels need space around to to ensure a safe work zone.
#8
The clearance of a panel is a space 30" wide in front of it and 36" deep clear space. The space is not required to be centered on the panel.
I hope this old fuse panel is not located in the bathroom, electrical panels cannot be in a bathroom or clothes closet.
I hope this old fuse panel is not located in the bathroom, electrical panels cannot be in a bathroom or clothes closet.
#9
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Thread Starter
Thank you very much guys, I will re think this today as I take town the walls.
The idea of having her bathroom breaker bundled with the panel in her storage room is a great suggestion. The room is 6'x10' and the panel has plenty of clearance around it.
In an ideal world, how many amps total would you recommend I be feeding the upper wall panel if it needs 30 now, plus the new bathroom line, and maybe one more 15a for future expansion?
The idea of having her bathroom breaker bundled with the panel in her storage room is a great suggestion. The room is 6'x10' and the panel has plenty of clearance around it.
In an ideal world, how many amps total would you recommend I be feeding the upper wall panel if it needs 30 now, plus the new bathroom line, and maybe one more 15a for future expansion?
#10
CasualJoe, Not sure why I never thought of that, I could be missing a great chance to move the breaker for the new line in the bathroom from the basement to my daughter's apt on the top level.
pcboss
I would just run a MWBC or two cables to the bathroom. You would need clearance if you installed a panel.
I would just run a MWBC or two cables to the bathroom. You would need clearance if you installed a panel.
Tolyn Ironhand
The clearance of a panel is a space 30" wide in front of it and 36" deep clear space. The space is not required to be centered on the panel.
The clearance of a panel is a space 30" wide in front of it and 36" deep clear space. The space is not required to be centered on the panel.
#11
In an ideal world, how many amps total would you recommend I be feeding the upper wall panel if it needs 30 now, plus the new bathroom line, and maybe one more 15a for future expansion?
#13
BX can be used with 2104 boxes (Canada at least). I don't recommend it though. Once you board the wall if you ever break a wire you are in for a world of frustration trying to pull in slack, strip the armor, get an anti-short in, and get the wire pushed back up.
Loomex/Romex is far easier to work with if you have problems in the future.
Also speaking of the "special" connectors and metal boxes joe mentioned, even in a residential setting using loomex I recommend using deep 4x4 boxes with a raco ring and loomex connectors for your switch boxes and GFI. This leaves a lot more room for the GFI, and any potential motion sensor switches/dimmers you may wish to install in the future.
Loomex/Romex is far easier to work with if you have problems in the future.
Also speaking of the "special" connectors and metal boxes joe mentioned, even in a residential setting using loomex I recommend using deep 4x4 boxes with a raco ring and loomex connectors for your switch boxes and GFI. This leaves a lot more room for the GFI, and any potential motion sensor switches/dimmers you may wish to install in the future.
#14
Member
Thread Starter
Thanks guys,
Monday I will get a 40amp and run 8-3. This is one of the very few pleasant detours I have taken so far during these Renos!
I could not find a reference to 15a or 20a for CEC while searching google, only this paragraph from the City of Calgary. But if I am going to bring 8-3 from the basement, I will go with a 20 as her hair dryer alone must suck up 1200 watts!
Monday I will get a 40amp and run 8-3. This is one of the very few pleasant detours I have taken so far during these Renos!
I could not find a reference to 15a or 20a for CEC while searching google, only this paragraph from the City of Calgary. But if I am going to bring 8-3 from the basement, I will go with a 20 as her hair dryer alone must suck up 1200 watts!
#15
You can choose between 15A or 20A in the bathroom. Just make sure its GFCI protected and tamper resistant.