Mounting Load centers and Meter Socket tomorrow

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Old 02-03-14, 06:27 PM
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Mounting Load centers and Meter Socket tomorrow

Anybody have any suggestions, or things i should keep in mind before mounting the panels in my new house or the meter outside? I will follow my POCO's requirement on the meter socket (center of meter 4'-6' off final grade) and will throw some additional 2x4 bracing behind it to secure it to. The house is sheated in smart board rather than plywood so I figure something to grip to would be a good idea.

The Main Panel in my utility room will be mounted to a poured concrete basement wall. My current house has a piece of 3/4 t/g plywood afixed to the wall with tapcons and the panel is mounted to that. Is there any size requirements for this plywood? My panel is a combo surface/flush box and I would eventually like to finish the room it is in. Should I hang the plywood, and frame a section of wall (say 1 cavity on each side of the panel) and hang it from the wall studs, or just mount it to the plywood and then frame around it at a later date?

The garage sub panel is on an interior 2x6 wall. Do I have to (or should I) throw a piece of plywood or a piece of metal even behind it for protection from the other side of the wall? Its our dining room and I cant imagine ever hanging anything behind where the panel will be, but want to be safe.
 
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Old 02-03-14, 06:51 PM
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What kind of siding are you going to have?

Since you likely do not have a floor poured yet your best option might be to attach plywood and then frame around it later. I would use 3/4 so you can nail cable staples into the plywood, although the nails are still longer than the plywood. If there was some way to hang some studs on either side of the panel that would be better IMO. Then lay a couple 14.5" 2x4's flat between the studs going up to staple the cables to.

Do I have to (or should I) throw a piece of plywood or a piece of metal even behind it for protection from the other side of the wall?
No, you don't need to. The steel of the cabinet is plenty tough. If it was me doing it, I would suggest surface mounting the garage panel. That way you can easily add circuits as needed by running conduit later, and you will have a full wall of insulation there. You can still wire some circuits in the walls, behind the Sheetrock. Just come in to the back of the panel.
 
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Old 02-03-14, 06:58 PM
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Vinyl Siding, floor not poured yet, BUT I could run the 2x4 studs next to and above the panel...

I'll throw a piece of plywood behind it. What if I throw a piece of 1/2' ply above it (14.5"wide) and staple to that? I could run it from the panel tight to the ceiling.
 
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Old 02-03-14, 07:06 PM
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You might want to consider getting one of these: Arlington | Meter Mounting Bases Make sure you install house wrap behind anything you attach to the house. Viking has them, I looked

Plywood works, its just that the plywood is 1/2-3/4" thick, and the cables staple nails are 1" or longer so they go until they hit the concrete wall and bend over. You could do some 3/4" plywood for the panel (use short screws ) , and then maybe some 5/4" deck boards for nailing strips.

Or maybe tapcon some deck boards vertically on the wall and use that for the whole works!
 
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Old 02-03-14, 07:18 PM
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I like the meter bases from Arlington for mounting on vinyl siding. Sturdy and self trimming around the siding.
 
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Old 02-03-14, 07:41 PM
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The house is sheated in smart board
I am not familiar with smart board, what exactly is it?
 
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Old 02-03-14, 07:46 PM
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I'll pick up a meter mounting base for sure, that looks like a nice clean way to do it!

Sound like there arent any "rules" to consider when mounting the panel, I'll make it look nice and be functional to nail/staple to. I'll throw some pictures up when I can.

Thanks guys!
 
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Old 02-03-14, 08:14 PM
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You can have a nice picnic for us when you get it all finished.
 
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Old 02-04-14, 05:58 AM
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I will invite anyone local to have burgers and beer for sure!
 
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Old 02-04-14, 08:58 AM
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I will invite anyone local to have burgers and beer for sure!
I'll be up there in late May
 
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Old 02-04-14, 10:46 AM
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Sound like there arent any "rules" to consider when mounting the panel
The center of the uppermost breaker cannot be more than 2 m. (6' 7") above the floor. There must be a clear working space in front of the panel that is at least 30" wide and 36" deep, floor to ceiling. The panelboard does not have to be centered in the 30" width.
 
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Old 02-04-14, 04:17 PM
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I will invite anyone local to have burgers and beer for sure!
I'm in for the burger, not so much for the beer.
 
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Old 02-04-14, 05:59 PM
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That's OK, I'll drink a couple of Tolyn's.
 
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Old 02-04-14, 06:35 PM
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That's OK, I'll drink a couple of Tolyn's.
I'm willing to share.
 
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Old 02-04-14, 06:56 PM
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I'm willing to share.
I always said you were all heart, TI.
 
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Old 02-04-14, 08:01 PM
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I'm in for the burger, not so much for the beer.
Hope there'll be a few brats in the mix too.
 
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Old 02-05-14, 12:03 AM
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Hope there'll be a few brats in the mix too.
Now you're talking............
 
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Old 02-05-14, 02:52 PM
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Beer, brats, burgers, all of the above!

I got to Viking last night at 4:58 and they were "already closed" and. Couldn't help... Was a little more than ticked since I had just hauled parse from Apple Valley there...

I was there at 6am this morning and followed the guy in. :-) got the meter socket installed this morning and am scheduled for a "meter only" inspection tomorrow so POCO can trench this weekend. Thus weather is slowing EVERYTHING down. I can't blame the framers though, I was only out there for 35min and was freezing!
 
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Old 02-05-14, 06:41 PM
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so POCO can trench this weekend.
Do they usually trench when the ground is frozen deep like it is now?

Beer, brats, burgers, all of the above!
 
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Old 02-05-14, 10:02 PM
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Beer, brats, burgers, all of the above!
Ah, summertime in the upper Midwest!

I got to Viking last night at 4:58 and...
Why the special run? I thought you'd already figured out you weren't going to need an LL.
 
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Old 02-06-14, 04:16 AM
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Yes they trench year round. It's a bit slower than in the summer, but a big ride on diesel treachery chews through pretty much anything!

I went to Viking to pickup an Arlington meter socket install base.
 
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Old 02-06-14, 12:51 PM
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Should I put an expansion joint below the meter before the conduit goes back underground?
 
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Old 02-06-14, 01:55 PM
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Yes. It's required around here and may even be required by the NEC.
 
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Old 02-06-14, 02:53 PM
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I thought I read that somewhere. I did pick one up. Thanks!
 
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Old 02-06-14, 02:58 PM
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I would certainly install the expansion joint.
 
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Old 02-06-14, 05:21 PM
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Should I put an expansion joint below the meter before the conduit goes back underground?
scubawes

I thought I read that somewhere. I did pick one up. Thanks!
Be careful not to install it upside down.
 
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Old 02-09-14, 08:36 AM
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My run of conduit is only 6 feet between the bottom of the meter socket and the 90 where it enters the house. I will set the expansion coupling at approximately 1" in travel. The photo below is the opposite of how it should be installed correct?

[ATTACH=CONFIG]26322[/ATTACH]
 
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Old 02-09-14, 11:44 AM
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The photo below is the opposite of how it should be installed correct?
Correct, it's upside down in the photo.
 
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Old 02-09-14, 11:48 AM
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How much adjustment does that coupling allow? I suspect your ground could heave more than an inch in winter.
 
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Old 02-10-14, 04:52 AM
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It has a a little over 3" of travel. I started watching my current underground service 2 winters ago and haven't noticed any movement of the finished grade at actually. I can set this new expabnsion coupling at the middle point to be safe though.
 
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