Have questions about moving a electric panel

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  #1  
Old 02-14-14, 01:55 PM
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Have questions about moving a electric panel

I'm looking to move the main panel at my summer cabin and I'm thinking of tackling the job myself. There are no sub-panels. Just the main. Of course I'm checking with the local building inspector to make sure I can do this myself first. I've worked with some "contractors" in the area and wouldn't trust any of them to install a light bulb.
I'm no expert but I've done a bit of electrical work (run new circuits, sub-panels, upgraded panel) and taken residential electric courses.
My questions are regarding to how to properly do this. I'm assuming I'd have to run a new feed from the meter to the new panel and use wire nuts to extend all existing wires to the new panel (which will be in the basement directly below the location of the old panel). Can I do this all in one large junction box? Do I have to isolate each run in it's own junction box?
Any tips, help, advice would be greatly appreciated. Waiting to hear back from the town building inspector to see if I can even do this myself. Would think he isnt too busy given the town population of 600. haha.
 
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Old 02-14-14, 02:16 PM
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You can junction the existing wires in the old panel or install new home runs from the new panel to the first device on every circuit.

A new cable will need to be run from the meter to the panel along with moving the system grounding.
 
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Old 02-14-14, 06:11 PM
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I'm assuming I'd have to run a new feed from the meter to the new panel
How far are you moving the panel location and how long will the new service cable be from the point where it penetrates the outside wall to the new panel location?
 
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Old 02-15-14, 05:09 AM
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Some jurisdictions won't allow main panels not to be back-to-back to the meter base. In such instances a main disconnect is required at the meter prior to entry to the residence. Good that you are checking with the authorities. They can tell you the feasibility of it, too.
 
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Old 02-15-14, 03:44 PM
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Thanks for the replies. The new panel will be basically in the exact same location, just 8ft lower. Moving from the kitchen to the basement. It might actually end up being closer to the meter. The basement was built 20 years after my dad built the house (long story) and now he wants the panel in the basement.

PCBOSS...so I can junction the wires in the existing panel without modifying the panel? Do they sell a cover that would replace the old one (with one that doesnt have a door)?
 
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Old 02-15-14, 03:56 PM
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Since the cover would need to stay I don't see much benefit to going through all the work to move the panel.

Some would remove the breakers and bus bars from the old panel. I have never seen a replacement cover.
 
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Old 02-21-14, 11:38 AM
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Thanks again for the reply. Right now panel is basically in the kitchen and a few years back my father decided to move some stuff around and put the fridge in front of the panel..which I know he shouldnt be doing. So each time he comes up he has to roll the fridge forward to turn on the water pump, heat, etc.
 
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Old 02-21-14, 12:31 PM
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Sounds like a valid reason to move the panel since the refrigerator is clearly in the workspace and should not be there.
 
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Old 02-21-14, 01:16 PM
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Jim, I believe if he were to pull the breakers, use the old box as a junction, insert blank plates in the now vacant holes, it would meet code with the cover in place. It is accessible, it is covered and is not a hazard should someone open the door. Thoughts?
 
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Old 02-21-14, 01:40 PM
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But.....how long would the service entrance wiring be now? Would the OP need a disconnect at the meter?
 
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Old 02-22-14, 11:13 AM
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Depends on the routing of the service wires. If a new one was run directly into the new panel and kept as short as practical a disconnect would not be needed. If they wished to extend I would say a disconnect would be needed.

Removing the guts and installing breaker blanks or a metal filler would be acceptable IMO.
 
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Old 02-22-14, 05:04 PM
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Removing the guts and installing breaker blanks or a metal filler would be acceptable IMO.
If you screw the door shut you don't have to use blanks.
 
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