Fabrication Equipment Electrical Switch/Control

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  #1  
Old 03-07-14, 01:01 PM
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Fabrication Equipment Electrical Switch/Control

Hello, I have a Scotchman Ironworker model 6509 that had the knob break off of the selector switch that selects the "Sheer" or "Punch" functions. There is a DropBox link to the photos and a scan of the electrical diagram from the manual. I can read blueprints very well, but electrical line diagrams still look foreign to me. I would appreciate some help in sorting out my mistake as detailed below...

Dropbox: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/cjdrvipm6m59fk3/XFR6VZZUYd

I opened the box for the new switch and with it was a green note (see attached photo "JumperNote"). I did not read it close enough but took it as direction to complete the steps shown, I did. After trying to start it up, it would start but the switch would not function. The switch must be in the center "Start" position to start then you select which task you want to preform, "Punch" or "Sheer". After reading it closer, I was only to complete the removal of the jumpers if I had the "Run/Jog/Probe" switch, which from the attached photo "FrontPanel" you can see I do not have that option. So I reversed the directions and thought I was in business. Wrong. Somewhere with all of the wire moves I didn't get something in the right place. So from the green jumper note photo we do have some knowns, 2 & 10, 8 & 4 and 9 & 3 should be jumped.

If anyone can help me make sense of this and what wires go where, I would greatly appreciate it. Please let me know if you need any more photos or clarifications

I appreciate the help!
 
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  #2  
Old 03-07-14, 02:13 PM
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Switch Control

If I am looking at the control block correctly it looks like one side is 3-7-11 and the other side is 1-5-9. It looks like you have a jumper between 9-7 instead of 9-3. I don't see a picture of the 2-10 and 8-4 side of the switch clear enough to verify contact numbering.
 

Last edited by bahtah; 03-07-14 at 02:43 PM.
  #3  
Old 03-07-14, 03:41 PM
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Thanks for the help so far, you pointed out an obvious mistake. I added a folder to the previous link called "Reworked". I changed 6 and 10 to 2 and 10. I also changed 9 and 7 to 9 and 3. That would have put too many wires on 3, so I removed the jumped from 1 to 3 as you can see. Not sure where 1 jumps to, or if it even does at all. Switch still does not function...
 
  #4  
Old 03-07-14, 07:08 PM
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Switch Control

The instructions you followed said to add a jumper between 1-5 so I assume you made a jumper wire which you added. Now all the jumpers that you removed have been replaced and I would think no jumper would be needed from 1-5. If you did not make a new jumper then you must have moved that jumper wire. Without the machine wiring diagrams its anyone's guess as to how that was originally connected.
 
  #5  
Old 03-08-14, 05:53 AM
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I did not add any new jumpers. The electrical diagram is included in the DropBox link above, its a pdf called Ironworker-electrical.pdf". The problem is I'm not familiar with reading line diagrams, but hopefully someone will find them and the answer obvious. Thanks
 
  #6  
Old 03-08-14, 07:24 AM
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You need the jumper from 1 to 5. Since you don't have run/jog or a foot switch, the jumper will energize the line side of the selector for your sheer or punch solenoids once the motor is running.
 
  #7  
Old 03-09-14, 12:59 PM
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Just tried jumping 1 and 5, still nothing. I've updated the files in the dropbox link, everything shown now is current. 1 jumps to 5. 9 jumps to 3. 3, 5 and 7 come in from "elsewhere". I am just assuming "elsewhere" connections are right. And 2 jumps to 10. 4 Jumps to 8. 6 and 10 come from "elsewhere", again assuming that "elsewhere" connections are right. If everyone thinks the jumpers are correct I guess I need to look later at where 3, 5, 7, 6 and 10 come from, either the start switch or the terminal bar.
 
  #8  
Old 03-10-14, 09:50 AM
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Fixed it. I had #3 and #7 switch terminals crossed. I had to learn to read a line diagram out of necessity, once you know how it clicks and is very easy. That wasn't the only problem, once I was 100% that the terminals were correct I used a volt meter on the terminals and noticed that the switch had voltage in the start position and not in one of the functions, but reversed itself once it was switched to another position. I switched two legs of the 3 hots coming in and that corrected everything. (While changing the switch I reworked the line wiring coming in and must have crossed 2 phases up.)
 
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