splice into conduit body?

Reply

  #1  
Old 03-19-14, 10:42 AM
sgull's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: AK
Posts: 2,525
splice into conduit body?

I'm thinking about the idea of splicing (not sure if that's the correct term but I mean tapping into the circuit here) into this 3/4" size "conduit body" to run power out to an additional receptacle. In that case the cover would be removed from the conduit body and I just am wondering what does the part look like that would replace the cover, how the junction there would look afterward.

 
Sponsored Links
  #2  
Old 03-19-14, 11:23 AM
Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: USA
Posts: 6,279
Splice

Replace the LB with a junction box to get adequate box volume. Getting enough slack in the existing wires will be an issue.
 
  #3  
Old 03-19-14, 12:08 PM
sgull's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: AK
Posts: 2,525
Ok thanks Wirepuller. I measured the distance from the centers of both ports on that LB and it is 4 inches. So the junction box I could replace the LB with could be one like the following (except a bigger size probably since this one pictured is only 4" square)?

 
  #4  
Old 03-19-14, 03:45 PM
Mr.Awesome's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Canada, SK
Posts: 576
Come into the left side of the box with the bottom pipe. Get yourself a small piece of EMT and a coupling, and extend the top pipe to the box. Or you could invest in a bender and replace the pieces to fit nicer.
Also, the NEC may differ but CEC does not allow for joints inside of an LB.
 
  #5  
Old 03-19-14, 04:19 PM
Banned. Rule And/Or Policy Violation
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: KS
Posts: 1,896
NEC does, as long as the box fill is not exceeded.

But since there is no way to add a conduit branch to the LB, that point is moot.
 
  #6  
Old 03-19-14, 05:56 PM
CasualJoe's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: USA
Posts: 9,213
So the junction box I could replace the LB with could be one like the following (except a bigger size probably since this one pictured is only 4" square)?
Is the conduit/LB now outside or is it inside? The picture you posted is a box that cannot be used outside in the weather.
 
  #7  
Old 03-19-14, 06:18 PM
Gunguy45's Avatar
Super Moderator
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: USA
Posts: 20,859
Is the conduit/LB now outside or is it inside?
I was kinda wondering about that...based on the cobwebs and dust I'd guess inside...but what the heck is the surface behind it?
 
  #8  
Old 03-22-14, 09:16 AM
sgull's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: AK
Posts: 2,525
The conduit/LB is outside on the bottom of an exterior wall underneath the edge of a deck (dark area behind is some crawlspace under the building). Above the deck is covered, completely protected from wetness at all times.
 
  #9  
Old 03-23-14, 11:08 AM
Member
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: port chester n y
Posts: 2,117
Don't presume the circuit includes a Neutral Conductor; also the size of the Conductors must be considered, and the rating of the device protecting the conductors.
 
  #10  
Old 03-23-14, 01:35 PM
sgull's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: AK
Posts: 2,525
Reconsidering the situation, I'm leaning toward another option now instead of my my initially posted idea here of splicing in at the present LB location (and changing that out for a junction box as has been suggested). The first photo below shows the run up from that LB location which is below the deck. So my thought now is to instead add the conduit branch from the location of the junction box shown in the photo, after changing out that particular junction box with a properly sized one with a conduit knock-out on the bottom.



Below, this closer photo shows the current wiring within that junction box. There are seven wires passing through, three of which are spliced here with the wire nuts. The four additional un-spliced wires which pass through consist of one black, one red, and two whites. All this wiring is routed from the junction box toward that one GFCI receptacle seen in the photo plus five others beyond.



Advice/comment as to the feasibility of this option I've described would be very much appreciated. And if feasible, if it can be determined with reasonable certainty (based on my photos/description here) how the additional cable would be connected here (which wire to which) I'd like to know that too.
 
  #11  
Old 03-23-14, 02:05 PM
PJmax's Avatar
Group Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: NJ - USA
Posts: 43,471
I see what looks like #12 and #14 spliced at that point. You would have to go to the start of the circuit to see what's going on there.

It looks like you may have two multiwire branch circuits. One set on #14 wire and one set on #12 wire. No ground pulled.
 
  #12  
Old 03-23-14, 03:48 PM
sgull's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: AK
Posts: 2,525
I see what looks like #12 and #14 spliced at that point. You would have to go to the start of the circuit to see what's going on there. It looks like you may have two multiwire branch circuits. One set on #14 wire and one set on #12 wire. No ground pulled.
Thanks PJ. If we can go on the assumption then that two multiwire branch circuits is indeed the case here, for the sake of confirmation that I am understanding correctly, would that mean the spliced #12 and #14 wires would be one of those circuits and the unspliced remaining four wires is for the other?
 
  #13  
Old 03-23-14, 05:17 PM
PJmax's Avatar
Group Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: NJ - USA
Posts: 43,471
Correct.....that is what we are assuming.
 
  #14  
Old 03-23-14, 07:17 PM
sgull's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: AK
Posts: 2,525
At the (poorly labeled) electrical panel I made some beginning effort to try tracing the circuitry of this wiring within the conduit run. At the receptacle shown in my photo (just adjacent to the junction box), a voltage tester indicated no voltage where voltage was present previous to switching off one particular breaker in the panel. Yet with that breaker remained switched off I noticed a pop machine which was plugged into one of the other five other receptacles on that same run of conduit was still powered on. Logically then I suppose there are indeed two multiwire circuits as suggested. Two questions:
(1) If the three #12 and #14 wires spliced together at the junction box are for one circuit (which we could call circuit A) and the remaining four (unspliced) set of wires are for the other (which we could call circuit B), why are there four wires (#14 two white, one red, and one black) for circuit B instead of just three as with circuit A?

(2) Which of the two circuits might be the more appropriate of the two (at that junction box location) from which to splice in for connecting an additional power/conduit run out to another receptacle?
 
  #15  
Old 03-24-14, 05:06 AM
pcboss's Avatar
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Maryland
Posts: 14,357
What is the expected load on the new receptacle?
 
  #16  
Old 03-24-14, 09:39 AM
sgull's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: AK
Posts: 2,525
What is the expected load on the new receptacle?
13 watt is the maximum power consumption spec listed for the single PTZ surveillance camera which will be plugged into the new receptacle (via 24V transformer power supply).
 
  #17  
Old 03-25-14, 08:39 AM
sgull's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: AK
Posts: 2,525
Any comments/response to the two questions post #14 ?
 
  #18  
Old 03-25-14, 10:01 AM
sgull's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: AK
Posts: 2,525
After further checking I discovered the receptacle shown just to the right of the junction box shown in the first photo (post #10 here) is the only one among the other five which continue further on that conduit run for which the breaker switch I shut off is connected. So only two of the seven wires within the junction box involve that one circuit and the other five involve the other. Wiring connections to that particular receptacle just mentioned is one white and one black, and that receptacle is grounded to the ground screw within its own box. Fuzzy picture here for what its worth:

 
  #19  
Old 03-25-14, 10:49 AM
pcboss's Avatar
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Maryland
Posts: 14,357
Just continue power from the accessible device box. The existing circuit should be fine for the additional 13 watts.
 
Reply

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Display Modes
'