Any Tips on Lining Up a KO hole
#1
03-28-14, 08:53 AM
Any Tips on Lining Up a KO hole
Ordered a large pull box that will sit right underneath a transfer switch.
Plan to mount them via close nipple. Will be utilizing the 1" KO already on the transfer switch.
So just short of measure twice, cut once
Do I simply line up the hole, and mark the current KO onto the pull box top
Then Measure the middle of that drawn circle - create my hole for the KO stud and Hope when all said and done, they line up exactly how I wanted them . I know there is some slop/wiggle room in this- about 1/8" of tolerance.
Any other suggestions you can offer to this weekend warrior.
Plan to mount them via close nipple. Will be utilizing the 1" KO already on the transfer switch.
So just short of measure twice, cut once
Do I simply line up the hole, and mark the current KO onto the pull box top
Then Measure the middle of that drawn circle - create my hole for the KO stud and Hope when all said and done, they line up exactly how I wanted them . I know there is some slop/wiggle room in this- about 1/8" of tolerance.
Any other suggestions you can offer to this weekend warrior.
#2
03-28-14, 09:09 AM
Group Moderator
I would not sweat it too much. The knockout holes are generally larger than the fitting so there will be some wiggle room at each box. Left to right is pretty easy to line up but if you get off in/out you can shim behind the enclosure when you screw it to the wall.
#3
03-28-14, 10:20 AM
Group Moderator
Do I simply line up the hole, and mark the current KO onto the pull box top
You can do the same thing by laying both items flat on their backs on a workbench. They would be at the same mounting level and you'd trace thru the transfer switch onto the pull box.
#4
03-28-14, 12:49 PM
Forum Topic Moderator
Drill the hole for the punch stud in the pull box. Stack the pull box on the panel and use the KO to line up the punch in the KO.
#5
03-29-14, 05:32 AM
BTW, pros/cons of coupling this together
Option A: 2 Chase Nipples and a Ridgid Coupler
Option B: Locknuts, Short Nipple, Bushing
B - being the more common way I suppose ?
Option A: 2 Chase Nipples and a Ridgid Coupler
Option B: Locknuts, Short Nipple, Bushing
B - being the more common way I suppose ?
#7
03-29-14, 06:15 AM
Forum Topic Moderator
Close nipples do not need a coupling, just 4 locknuts.
Last edited by pcboss; 03-29-14 at 06:40 AM.
#11
03-29-14, 06:43 AM
Group Moderator
No. Just make it tight on the coupling. They also make long chase nipples if you can not find a short rigid coupling.
Yes, if if the panels are tight together, you only need one chase nipple, one lock nut, and a bushing if your wire is #4 or larger.
Yes, if if the panels are tight together, you only need one chase nipple, one lock nut, and a bushing if your wire is #4 or larger.
#12
03-29-14, 08:46 AM
Two chase nipples plus a coupling makes a very clean-looking install, plus it gets the panels close together but far enough apart to preserve the function of the two doors and covers.
#13
03-29-14, 09:36 AM
I was thinking about the covel panel on the pull box . With the 2 mated tight, it might not be so fun taking/putting it on.
Locknut required between coupler/exterior side of panel if I am using a chase nipple ?
Locknut required between coupler/exterior side of panel if I am using a chase nipple ?
#16
03-29-14, 02:29 PM
Thank you all. Started the 1st step of the install
Ran some Backboard, shot some nails into the crete - and waiting for the PL Premium adhesive to setup...
Ran some Backboard, shot some nails into the crete - and waiting for the PL Premium adhesive to setup...
#17
03-29-14, 07:08 PM
Member
Two chase nipples plus a coupling makes a very clean-looking install, plus it gets the panels close together but far enough apart to preserve the function of the two doors and covers.
#18
03-30-14, 05:56 AM
Member
I have had the same experience using the coupling,really not sure what the advantage is to using the coupling in the first place accept for saving on a couple of locknuts and bushings.
#19
03-30-14, 06:16 AM
Member
It appears to me that the only advantage is cosmetic. The disadvantage I see is that locknuts, when properly tightened, actually bite into the metal box through any paint, but the chase nipples and rigid coupling just press against the metal box. The inspector had a valid point.
#20
03-30-14, 07:19 AM
Group Moderator
The disadvantage I see is that locknuts, when properly tightened, actually bite into the metal box through any paint, but the chase nipples and rigid coupling just press against the metal box. The inspector had a valid point.
#21
03-31-14, 10:48 AM
Curiosity intrigues me. Where does CODE specify when you need to use a INSULATED chase nipple versus non insulated. The Flared profile of a chase nipple seems to be sufficient enough for all intended wires/abrasion issues ?
#22
03-31-14, 05:18 PM
Group Moderator
There is nobody that makes an insulated chase nipple AFAIKO. A chase nipple is for exactly what you describe, to protect the wires from abrasion on a sharp edge. Whether it is a plastic one or a metal one will only depend on the wiring method used.
#26
03-31-14, 05:53 PM
Group Moderator
#27
03-31-14, 06:03 PM
It's not a separate bushing you insert though. It comes WITH or Without.
I'm not sure the part/model # WITH, is the OD of the chase nipple actually larger, so that the ID of the overall with the lined Bushing/Insulated is the same as with a Chase Nipple Without.
Hence, bearing the question that sparked this, does code Dictate when you need to use a Insulated chase nipple/bushing rather than a regular ~unlined~ version.
I guess the same Question would apply to flex connectors. I've used and seen both insulted and non insulated Flex Connectors. I see the benefits of the lined for the throat of the fitting, but technically, it's nice and smooth anyways.
I'm not sure the part/model # WITH, is the OD of the chase nipple actually larger, so that the ID of the overall with the lined Bushing/Insulated is the same as with a Chase Nipple Without.
Hence, bearing the question that sparked this, does code Dictate when you need to use a Insulated chase nipple/bushing rather than a regular ~unlined~ version.
I guess the same Question would apply to flex connectors. I've used and seen both insulted and non insulated Flex Connectors. I see the benefits of the lined for the throat of the fitting, but technically, it's nice and smooth anyways.
