Trouble with a GFCI receptaclel

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  #1  
Old 03-28-14, 07:34 PM
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Trouble with a GFCI receptaclel

Hello, could use your help, Please.

I have a GFCI on my kitchen counter (closest to the facet) and I plugged in a sentsy warmer and it blew the light bulb. The next day I plugged in a different warmer and the light bulb blew out on this one. I tried to push in the test or the reset button and neither button moved. I have an outlet tester that both plug ins on that outlet read correct (wht, grn grn). I have a coffee maker plugged into the other plug on the outlet and it worked after the blown light bulbs. (this plug is about 2 ft from the sink. The sink is on a half wall, and on the otherside of the 1/2 wall there is another GFCI outlet. That outlet I can push in the buttons, but the red light does not come on. This outlet also reads correct (wht, grn grn) by the plug tester. All the other outlets in the kitchen are working just fine. My sons theory is that I had the warmer on continuous for days not too long ago. And maybe the wires got too hot and now the outlet is not protected and not operating correctly. What do you think is wrong & what would you recommend?
 
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Old 03-28-14, 07:43 PM
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Welcome to the forums!

The light bulb in those warmers are not that many watts. I doubt it would do any damage to the wires or GFCI. There may be something else going on.

The lights on your tester, are they brighter than normal? Like when you use it in the bedroom outlet?

To be sure everything is correct check the voltage with a meter and see if you have about 120 volts. Set the meter to 240 volts or higher just to be safe. If you don't have a meter, you can buy a cheap analog one for about $10.
 
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Old 03-29-14, 04:18 AM
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GFCI's don't trip on overload, but on ground fault. Since other appliances work in the receptacle, I would place the fault in the warmer. Is it UL approved? I had a client last week with an identical problem with Home Depot 4 bulb grow lights. Plugged in fine, but tripped when switch was thrown to "on". Replacement light worked fine.
 
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Old 03-29-14, 05:22 AM
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Plug in a table lamp fixture with an incandescent (old style) light bulb and also your warmer. Look for the light being unusually dim or unusually bright when you turn the warmer on and off. Try different combinations of kitchen receptacles. You could have a wiring problem, notably the neutral.

Or maybe the small light in the warmer just burned out due to old age, or due to vibration when the warmer got bumped or jarred. As an incandescent light is used, it gets more and more sensitive it to vibration.

All lights and electrical equipment has a shorter life when subjected to overvoltage although this is more quickly noticed with incandescent lights.
 

Last edited by AllanJ; 03-29-14 at 06:00 AM.
  #5  
Old 03-29-14, 06:33 AM
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Thanks for your replies, Tolyn, Alan & Chandler.

The receptacle reset and test button will not push in either.
I'm thinking that the receptacle has possible gone bad.
How do I replace the receptacle?

Again Thanks,
 
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Old 03-29-14, 06:45 AM
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Turn off the power. Pay attention to which pair of wires comes off the line terminals on the old receptacle.

The connections are back wired, not back stabs so they are fine to use.
 
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