220v Induction Motor Wiring

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  #1  
Old 04-12-14, 04:41 PM
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220v Induction Motor Wiring

Calling all electricians!

I'm trying to convert a Rikon jointer/planer tool I have from 110 to 220 volt. The machine is capable of this. I've converted several tools to 220, so this isn't new territory. However, after getting the wiring apart and following the instructions that came with the tool, I have 3 red wires left over that are not mentioned at all in the wiring instructions. There's no ID plate on the motor, just a plate on the tool chassis itself that says it's capable of 110/220. The manufacturer is closed for the weekend and I'd like to get it running again. I imagine this is a fairly common Asian import motor, but there's no identification. It's a TEFC capacitor induction motor, 1.5 HP.

Here's what I know of the 6 wires coming out of the motor. I continuity tested all the wires with each other as I don't know what else to go by, none of the wiring is labeled.

Red1 --> Yellow wire/white wire
Red2 --> Black wire/Blue wire
Black --> Red2 wire/Blue Wire
Blue --> Black wire/Red2 wire
White --> Red1 wire/Yellow wire
Yellow --> Red1 wire/White wire

These are all 0 resistance. There's also a CBB60 capacitor with a red and blue wire. The manufacturer instructions state to connect the yellow and blue wires together, connect the black wire to one of the input legs and the white wire to the other input leg. But there's no mention of the 3 red wires. Here's a link to the diagram in the manual: http://toddnelson.net/misc/rikon-wiring.png

Can anyone make any sense out of this?

Thanks!
Todd
 
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  #2  
Old 04-12-14, 04:44 PM
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After looking at this more this is how I think it should go.

- Connect yellow motor wire, blue motor wire and blue capacitor wire together, as per instructions
- Connect mains leg 1 to black motor wire
- Connect mains leg 2 to white motor wire
- Connect red wire from capacitor to Red1 motor wire
- Cap off Red2 motor wire, I don't think it's used in this situation, maybe if I had 2 capacitors?

I wish I was smart enough to take a photo of the stock 110 wiring before I dismantled it. Does that sound right?
 
  #3  
Old 04-12-14, 07:40 PM
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Welcome to the forums.

It's a little hard to follow what you are doing there. Only two connections....actually three needed to be changed. The red wiring is most likely the start winding. They are taking the start winding off of one of the run windings. They didn't list the red wires as they weren't supposed to be changed.

When you check for motor/winding resistance..... you need to be set at the lowest ohms scale.

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You should see a certain resistance between black and blue.
You should see the same resistance between yellow and white.
The start winding will have a different resistance but similar.

If all the leads are unconnected then there should be no continuity between black/blue to yellow/white or the start winding. All three windings are isolated from each other.
 
  #4  
Old 04-12-14, 10:07 PM
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Thanks for the welcome and the help! Yes, I'm sure I screwed this up in 10 different ways. I agree, the red wires must be the start or "vice" winding as they call it. I swear the way it was wired before necessitated removing part of the capacitor wiring which is where things started to fall apart. I took some more measurements and you are right, I did get very small Ohm readings, apparently too small for my meter to register while in continuity mode. Here are the findings:

Yellow>White = 1 Ohm
Black>Blue = 1 Ohm
Black>Red2 = 0.2 Ohms
Yellow>Red1 = 2.2 Ohms
White>Red1 = 1.4 Ohms
Blue > Red2 = 1 Ohm

Is this enough to piece it back together?

Thanks so much!
Todd
 
  #5  
Old 04-13-14, 01:23 PM
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The dual-voltage motor would have two "Start" windings = four 'Start" leads for connecting the Start windings in parallel for 120 volt operation or in series for 220v operation.

Reversing the Start leads connections to the Run Line-leads would reverse the motor; also , if this a capacitor-start motor , a capacitor would be inserted in series between the Line and the Start windings.
 
  #6  
Old 04-13-14, 01:35 PM
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Yea it is a capacitor start motor, I believe anyway, there is a large capacitor. I hate to sound like a complete idiot. But could anyone just tell me which wires to connect together? If there's any more information I need to provide let me know.

Thanks,
Todd
 
  #7  
Old 04-13-14, 01:38 PM
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Yellow - white is one run winding. 1 ohm is correct.
Black - blue is the second run winding. 1 ohm is correct.

If all your wiring connections are opened..... no visible connections..... then there should be no continuity between any of those four colored wires and and any reds.

If you measure any continuity between any of those four colored wires and red..... it means there are permanent internal motor connections that are not visible.

If your red wires are specifically labeled R1, R2 and R3 then you'll need to contact the manufacturer of the motor for help.
 
  #8  
Old 04-13-14, 02:38 PM
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Got to this website, down load the pdf file and look on page 14.127 lower left figure C, there will be a wiring diagram for 120/230V 1 phase motors. Select your rotation and wire accordingly.

http://www.northwestconveyor.com/online/wdiagram.pdf

Best I can do for you.
Good luck!

RR
 
  #9  
Old 04-14-14, 06:55 AM
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Thanks everyone, I got it working. Since it's Monday morning anyway I got a call back from the manufacturer and they walked me through it. It was actually pretty simple, I just needed to connect the capacitor wires to the 2 red leads, that's it. I think what made this more complicated is when I first took off the wiring plate a wire nut fell out. For some reason I assumed it was just an extra one they supplied for converting to 220 and continued on. When I was done I had the extra red wire that was undocumented. The wire nut must have fallen off the red wire. Another source of confusion is the manual states to connect the yellow and blue wires together. Well mine has the yellow and blue motor wires and also one of the capacitor motor wires is blue. They just meant to connect the motor wires, I thought they meant all the blue wires. Apparently my unit is older and they since switched to capacitors with different wire colors. Too bad these things aren't more standardized among manufacturers, it would be much simpler!

Anyway, it's all back together now and fires up like a freight train.

Thanks again to everyone who replied, I now know a little bit more about induction motors.

Todd
 
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