Unisaw magnetic switch hookup
#1
04-16-14, 07:04 PM
Unisaw magnetic switch hookup
I got a 1980s vintage Rockwell Unisaw on the weekend but haven't been able to properly connect a power cord. I test-wired the motor (110V 1.5hp) directly and know it works. But the proper connection of the magnetic switch eludes me. The pushbutton switches, motor terminal block, and contactor are all in a box with a clear cover that holds the power buttons and which was easy to remove by turning the two lock buttons on the cover. Inside though there's no clear indication of where the previous power connections were made. Only two terminals are marked, as far as I can tell, T1 to the motor and one of the red wires (labelled L1) on the DIL 0-11. Here's a picture of what I'm looking at:
The yellow twist-ons are capping the power cord leads (except the green ground that's connected to the ground screw). There are a couple of pigtails I used to test connecting to the T1 and L1, since they are the only labelled terminals. Pushing the start button made the relay chatter but didn't power the motor. Based on what I've read on forums, I also tried connecting to L1 and the terminal beside it, assuming it's L2. Nothing at all from that arrangement.
The Klockner-Moeller DIL 0-10 has been superseded, there's no wiring diagram on the tool (because of the clear cover?), and I haven't found hookup info on the web. Can anyone tell what else I should try? Judging by the relay chatter from the first test, I don't have reason to suspect the contactor is dead. But what terminals make sense to connect?
David in Ottawa
The yellow twist-ons are capping the power cord leads (except the green ground that's connected to the ground screw). There are a couple of pigtails I used to test connecting to the T1 and L1, since they are the only labelled terminals. Pushing the start button made the relay chatter but didn't power the motor. Based on what I've read on forums, I also tried connecting to L1 and the terminal beside it, assuming it's L2. Nothing at all from that arrangement.
The Klockner-Moeller DIL 0-10 has been superseded, there's no wiring diagram on the tool (because of the clear cover?), and I haven't found hookup info on the web. Can anyone tell what else I should try? Judging by the relay chatter from the first test, I don't have reason to suspect the contactor is dead. But what terminals make sense to connect?
David in Ottawa
#2
04-16-14, 07:17 PM
Group Moderator
Welcome to the forums.
I see T1. Where is the L1 label ?
Can you move the wirenuts out of the way. It looks like power may go to those silver lugs.
That's a three phase contactor that I guess someone modified for that unit.
I see T1. Where is the L1 label ?
Can you move the wirenuts out of the way. It looks like power may go to those silver lugs.
That's a three phase contactor that I guess someone modified for that unit.
Last edited by PJmax; 04-16-14 at 08:40 PM. Reason: additional question asked
#3
04-16-14, 07:30 PM
Group Moderator
I thought Unisaw's were all 240 volt 3 HP motors? That is the contactor coil rating?
You have two sets of wires going to the box The one on the right is the power in correct?, what is the one on the left? To the motor? Is this the start and stop buttons? (circled red)
You have two sets of wires going to the box The one on the right is the power in correct?, what is the one on the left? To the motor? Is this the start and stop buttons? (circled red)
#4
04-17-14, 03:24 AM
Yeah, this is an after market switch. Agree it is a modifies 3 phase. My unisaw is 240 volts, but the on/off buttons are vertical and more pronounces. "On" is shrouded, while "off" is open. Nice to hit "off" with your knee. I would opt for a replacement Delta switch.
#5
04-17-14, 06:51 AM
Might not be modified per se. Recently I was shopping for a mag starter to update a vintage Delta shaper and "discovered" ALL the contactors I looked at, regardless of voltage or single/3 phase, all were 3 phase inside. I had a thread on here about it:
http://www.doityourself.com/forum/el...hlight=starter
http://www.doityourself.com/forum/el...hlight=starter
#6
04-17-14, 09:27 PM
Here are some more pics -- wire-nut-free:
https://picasaweb.google.com/ddwiela...IfluPvbxvKAuwE
In case it's not clear, the red wire on the leftmost terminal on the top of the DIL 0-11 is labelled L1.
It seems to be configurable for either single- or 3-phase and has been set up for the single-phase 115V motor. It might be an after-market replacement, because the saw came from a school shop where a mag switch would probably be a safety requirement even for a 1-1/2 hp tool.
https://picasaweb.google.com/ddwiela...IfluPvbxvKAuwEIn case it's not clear, the red wire on the leftmost terminal on the top of the DIL 0-11 is labelled L1.
It seems to be configurable for either single- or 3-phase and has been set up for the single-phase 115V motor. It might be an after-market replacement, because the saw came from a school shop where a mag switch would probably be a safety requirement even for a 1-1/2 hp tool.
#7
04-17-14, 11:29 PM
Group Moderator
Excellent pictures.
I'm looking for two things that aren't visible
1) Are there wires on the left hand button ?
2) Where is the second coil wire connected. The one goes to the white wire.
So far, I'm leaning towards..... L1 is hot in and the white wire is the neutral.
I'm looking for two things that aren't visible
1) Are there wires on the left hand button ?
2) Where is the second coil wire connected. The one goes to the white wire.
So far, I'm leaning towards..... L1 is hot in and the white wire is the neutral.
#8
04-18-14, 01:06 PM
I added a pic to the album that was taken from as low as I can get without lying on the floor. I think it shows the button connections you wanted to see. The white wire that runs across the top of the box connects to a small, one-wire type of screw terminal on the RH end, so I doubt that's intended as a line power connection. I've now detected tiny L1, L2, and L3 markings in front of the 3 heavy screws on the top of the contactor, so it's puzzling that putting power to L1 and L2 doesn't work. (L2 and L3 are bridged with a short jumper, presumably the single phase configuration.)
#9
04-18-14, 05:57 PM
Group Moderator
L1 is your hot input and T1 is your switched hot output. L2, L3, T2 and T3 are not used/needed here.
I'm just looking for your neutral connection now.
That white wire is the motor neutral and the coil neutral. Try connecting your neutral to the white wire.
The other half of the coil gets its hot from the push buttons and the aux contacts.
I'm just looking for your neutral connection now.
That white wire is the motor neutral and the coil neutral. Try connecting your neutral to the white wire.
The other half of the coil gets its hot from the push buttons and the aux contacts.
#10
04-18-14, 06:39 PM
Thanks for the suggestion, but connecting the hot input to L1 and the neutral to the white wire's left side terminal doesn't really work either. When I push the start button, the relay just chatters and the motor budges a little. Does this suggest a problem with the contactor itself?
#11
04-18-14, 07:05 PM
Group Moderator
Connect 120 volts directly to the coil of the contactor and see what happens. If it still chatters you have a bad coil.
BTW that saw/motor will perform better on 240 volts. But that is another issue.
BTW that saw/motor will perform better on 240 volts. But that is another issue.
