Use #6 Stranded Copper for 20amp circuit?
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Use #6 Stranded Copper for 20amp circuit?
I have a small off-the-grid solar cabin in a remote area of Colorado. When we did the rough-wiring, I had envisioned installing a 24-volt refrigerator and freezer so I installed two outlets wired as two separate circuits using #6 Stranded Copper to minimize line loss. Since that time I have perfected my solar generation to the point where I am now considering the use of a small conventional refrigerator/freezer (120v). Having already drywalled the interior, is there a way I can make use of the existing #6 stranded rather than rip open the walls, yank out the #6 and install #12?
I considered butt-splicing but do not know if one can splice #6 to #12. Also don't know if you can butt-splice inside the main electrical panel?
I considered butt-splicing but do not know if one can splice #6 to #12. Also don't know if you can butt-splice inside the main electrical panel?
#2
#6 Stranded Copper
Walls do not generally need to be ripped open to install new cables. The cables are fished.
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The existing wire is 6/2 NM-b. I'll see if I can find quick-connects. Main thing is to meet code so I can get the final inspection done and close out my building permit.
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Can I splice like that inside the main electrical planel?
Can't fit #6 into a 20amp breaker
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The neutral and ground 6-guage wire does fit the neutral/ground bars. BTW, the electrician that did the original rough-in attached both neutral and grounds to the neutral bars. My dad (a master electrician) always taught me that you should never connect ground wires to the neutral bar but install separate grounding bar to the panel enclosure. Something about the neutral bar being bonded vs the grounding bar being truly grounded. Any idea what code says?
#9
taught me that you should never connect ground wires to the neutral bar