I just installed a new motor on my pool pump. The motor is a 240 Volt. I get 120V on both the white and black lead while putting black lead on multimeter to ground on motor. Is that the correct amount of voltage? I ohm tested the ground on motor to common ground and got signal. I did not get a signal when ground to the white or black power wires. I also got a signal when I put both leads to the white and black power wires on ohms. is this correct? I'm so frustrated. I wonder if something is grounded out somewhere? I was only getting 120V to pool power box from the source and found a ground fault inside the power box. once I removed the ground I started getting 120V on both incoming wires to the pool power box. please help

Hi to all ... looking for sanity in the code vs. inspector vs. contractor world. Here's the situation... caught in the middle of debate and looking for something authoritative to break the log jamb. Situation. - Standard home panel with 150A service. Installed panel appropriate 50A manual interlock system for portable generator to service whole home when local utility drops out. - Have a 15kw GENERAC portable generator in an outbuilding about 50' from main house panel. - Currently hump 80lbs 50' 6/3+8/1 molded weather tight power cable out in snow and storms every time I need to fire up due to local utility outage; getting old ... tired of the extra duty ... outages more frequent than expected. - Renting a ditch-witch for an unrelated project, and have opportunity to bury UF-B 6/3+8/1 direct burial cable, which is ok by local code. Will go +24" deep and encase in 1-1/2" pvc conduit and concrete and run to inside pre-panel safety switch. All above is sound ... just background. Here's the issue.... - NEC is clear that subpanels in outbuildings fed by main panels need to separate the neutral-ground bond in the subpanel, and have their own ground to ground rods to carry stray current. - Code isn't so clear when the home main panel becomes the subpanel, being fed by the outbuilding generator through an interlock breaker in the main panel. This is much different than use of a neutral/ground opening manual transfer switch, which is a $K solution I'd prefer to avoid. - Key question ... do I need to bond or unbond the neutral-ground connection in the outbuilding?? And ... does the generator need to have an independent ground rod for either the power cable or permanent buried wire solution? Please help the old fart DIY member to a peaceful solution. Appreciate any {NEC compliant} info and advice from all, who without doubt, are smarter than me!! Thank you!!