(2) 15 Amp Outlets on Generators 30A Twistlock?

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Old 07-05-14, 05:28 AM
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(2) 15 Amp Outlets on Generators 30A Twistlock?

Trying to build a portable outlet box for use with a 3500/4000w generator. I have a 120v L5-30R twistlock at the generator, and id like to put two 15amp receptacles (one gfci using 12/2 inside) in a plastic box at the other end of a 50ft 10 gauge 300v exention cord to run into the house given an power outage occurs. My though initially is that is sounds like a recipe for disaster? Will the outlets overheat? Will the 12-2 get to hot ? The outlets will be for fridge, lights etc...nothing major. Home Depot basically sells the same setup cord for about $75

Champion Power Equipment 25 ft. 120-Volt Generator Power Cord-48034 at The Home Depot


I know it can be done somehow, just doesnt make sense to buy it when I already have the cord. Plus the generator is almost useless without a solution...
 
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Old 07-05-14, 06:05 AM
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Your altered extension cord method is not going to fly. You need to use an inlet.

If your not going to be installing a transfer switch with your service you might consider supplying 2 circuits/outlets on the inside of the house using a 30A power inlet box like the Reliance PB30 mounted on the outside.

There would be no need to run cords thru windows, holes or doors and you wouldnt have to use a hacked extension cord as you suggest.
 
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Old 07-05-14, 07:35 AM
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Those receptacles Bigboypete has suggested would NOT have any connection to the house breaker box and should have a distinctive color.

Please read: http://www.doityourself.com/forum/el...generator.html
 
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Old 07-05-14, 11:15 AM
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Ray, I was not suggesting the OP backfeed his panel. Despite what my wife says, I am not a careless idiot.
 
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Old 07-05-14, 11:41 AM
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Ray, I was not suggesting the OP backfeed his panel
Nor was I suggesting you were but I thought he might not understand.

Klavoie, please read: http://www.doityourself.com/forum/el...asement-2.html
 
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Old 07-05-14, 12:06 PM
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The problem here is having too much amperage for the outlets, I get it, but wouldn't the power inlet box connected to 15a outlets pose the same problem?? And also , what makes this cord...
Amazon.com: Champion Power Equipment 25 foot Generator Cord: Electronics

......work but my cord would not?? Also, the generators circuit breaker is rated for only 25A, and if I'm correct, aren't 15A GFCI outlets safe for 20A use?? If so, would 5A really matter that much?? And if THAT is so, perhaps 20A outlets will work....? I am a frugal *******.......
 

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Old 07-05-14, 12:53 PM
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I would get a transfer switch in a second, but this is a home I rent and not putting the time and money into something I don't own.
 
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Old 07-05-14, 01:14 PM
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Rental changes every thing. I would use only extension cords from the generator. Cords can be run through panels fitted into an open window to seal it.
what makes this cord.......work but my cord would not?
Your cord would work if you didn't modify it. Actually two #14 extension cords plugged into the 15 amp receptacles might work best and would be cheapest. You could use multipliers plugged into those to give you more places to plug in.

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Old 07-05-14, 01:28 PM
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Ray is right, renting changes everything. You cannot be adding to the electricial system nor servicing the electrical system. And specifically to your case, you should not be be adding boxes, outlets etc for your self derived system, it is not your property.
 
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Old 07-05-14, 01:45 PM
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The box I am intending to create is a sealed portable plastic duplex box at the end of the 10/2 cord, it is not attached to any thing nor tied into anything in the house....
 
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Old 07-05-14, 01:49 PM
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Unfortunately, there is only one 20A plug on the gen...
http://www.amazon.com/Champion-Power...pion+generator
 
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Old 07-05-14, 01:52 PM
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The box I am intending to create is a sealed portable plastic duplex box at the end of the 10/2 cord


I don't think Underwriters Laboratory would like that very much....

Just got some high quality extension cords and use a tap/power strip of some sort.
 
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Old 07-05-14, 02:13 PM
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The plastic box part concerns me from a code perspective and from a durability standpoint. IIRC the box needs a threaded hub so you would end up with a cast FS type box. Also the maximum circuit for general use is 20 amps.
 
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Old 07-05-14, 02:24 PM
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I think I'm just going to cough up the $90 for the correct cord and call it a day. I'm to concerned about the safety of the kids etc. and in the long run what's
$90 for peace of mind....thanks...

(Ps...I still don't quite understand why even in metal box this would not work provided I didn't exceed a 20a load??)
 
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Old 07-05-14, 03:00 PM
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It would work but it would violate the UL approval to modify the cord.. You could make a box or two to plug into it using #14 SOJ cord, cord caps, and the box. Or just use a couple of power strips.
 
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Old 07-05-14, 03:44 PM
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How am I modifying a blank cord ray??
 
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Old 07-05-14, 04:22 PM
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You said you wanted to cut the end off the cord.
Trying to build a portable outlet box for use with a 3500/4000w generator. I have a 120v L5-30R twistlock at the generator, and id like to put two 15amp receptacles (one gfci using 12/2 inside) in a plastic box at the other end of a 50ft 10 gauge 300v exention cord
Perhaps if you can restate what you want to do now we can better answer your questions.
 
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Old 07-05-14, 04:38 PM
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It might be simpler to get a cord similar to the one you linked, then run other cords from it to where you need power.

I know our rules say no advice against code, but I've seen many many homemade extension cords. (Hmmm...I think I even have one I picked up from a yard sale.) Normally they are made from spares and excess stuff laying around. Buying all the stuff retail to make one from scratch probably would cost as much or more as just buying one pre-made. Heck, looks like 25 ft of rubber coated 10 ga cable runs about $50 on it's own.
 
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Old 07-05-14, 05:07 PM
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Guys, he already has the bulk cord, all he wants to do is make it into an extension cord by affixing the correct ends, a twist-lok plug and a receptacle. I see nothing wrong with doing so although it would be better to use a straight blade plug at the generator because the receptacle is much more likely to be protected at 20 amperes vs. the 30 amperes of the twist-lok.
 
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Old 07-05-14, 05:31 PM
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he already has the bulk cord, all he wants to do is make it into an extension cord by affixing the correct ends, a twist-lok plug and a receptacle.
I agree but I never saw that in what he wrote. I may have misread what he wrote. That is why I asked him to write again exactly his plans.
 
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Old 07-05-14, 05:56 PM
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he already has the bulk cord, all he wants to do is make it into an extension cord by affixing the correct ends, a twist-lok plug and a receptacle.
I think he was intending to cobble together a homemade power tap by putting a pair of 15A outlets in a plastic box on the end of his twist lock extension cord. That is not "affixing the correct ends" and doing so would void the UL listing of the box, outlets and the extension cord.
 
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Old 07-05-14, 06:54 PM
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Along with using the 30 amp breaker on the genset to power regular receptacles.
 
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Old 07-05-14, 07:37 PM
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Well he could put together a portable subpanel with two 15 amp breakers and two or more duplex receptacles using #10 SOWJ, L5-30P cord cap, and a 60a main lug panel but that may be more then he wants to do.
 
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Old 07-05-14, 09:53 PM
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The ordinary duplex receptacle unit must be protected by a breaker of no more than 20 amps. Since the generator twist lock receptacle is protected by a 30 amp breaker, you must have a 15 or 20 amp breaker downstream, for example in a portable subpanel as suggested above at the end of the extension cord assembly being constructed.

Things will work correctly without the 20 amp breaker in between, drawing no more amps during normal operation. But ordinary lights, refrigerators, etc.(with ordinary 15 amp plugs) are expected to be on circuits no greater than 20 amps. A spontaneous unforeseen malfunction could be very hazardous if a 30 amp circuit were being used.
 
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Old 07-06-14, 12:21 AM
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To be clear, that cord he linked, made by Champion power equipment is a tri-tap extension cord with a 30A twist lock end. The receptacles are still fused at 30A. If he wants to do this safely, he should get a 2-space main lug panel, run a 10/3 SOOW cord into it through a chinese finger and myers hub. He should then wire in 2 GFCI receptacles, each one on it's own 15 or 20A breaker. Mounted all to a piece of heavy plywood painted nicely, and he will have a perfectly safe temporary rig. I have one I can post a picture of next time I'm online, but mine is way bigger than yours would be.
 
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Old 07-06-14, 06:28 AM
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Yes this is a bulk 50ft cord with a twistlock that I added , the other end is blank.
 
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Old 07-06-14, 07:06 AM
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JUSTIN SMITH WROTE: If he wants to do this safely, he should get a 2-space main lug panel, run a 10/3 SOOW cord into it through a chinese finger and myers hub. He should then wire in 2 GFCI receptacles, each one on it's own 15 or 20A breaker. Mounted all to a piece of heavy plywood painted nicely, and he will have a perfectly safe temporary rig. I have one I can post a picture of next time I'm online, but mine is way bigger than yours would be.
How much did it cost to get that rig of yours UL approved?

That's right, you didn't... so you shouldn't be assuming the OP's ability to construct unlisted electrical devices or his intended application of such a device.

To the OP, perhaps you might speak to your landlord nicely and see what he might allow in regards to installing an inlet box or a transfer switch setup.
 
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Old 07-06-14, 07:36 AM
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To the OP, perhaps you might speak to your landlord nicely and see what he might allow in regards to installing an inlet box or a transfer switch setup.

He could care less, its more about cost factor. That said, I really like the inlet idea, but again wouldn't i still have 30A going to two 15A outlets??
 

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Old 07-06-14, 08:43 AM
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To the OP, perhaps you might speak to your landlord nicely and see what he might allow in regards to installing an inlet box or a transfer switch setup.
He could care less, its more about cost factor. That said, I really like the inlet idea, but again wouldn't i still have 30A going to two 15A outlets??
 
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Old 07-07-14, 12:21 PM
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He could care less, its more about cost factor. That said, I really like the inlet idea, but again wouldn't i still have 30A going to two 15A outlets??
You'd still need a small subpanel.

How much did it cost to get that rig of yours UL approved?

That's right, you didn't... so you shouldn't be assuming the OP's ability to construct unlisted electrical devices or his intended application of such a device.
I'd be willing to bet the cord made by Champion isn't UL listed, either. I know the ones I've seen made by Briggs & Stratton and Generac aren't listed. But then again, most portable generators aren't UL listed either.
 
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Old 07-07-14, 12:50 PM
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He could care less, its more about cost factor. That said, I really like the inlet idea, but again wouldn't i still have 30A going to two 15A outlets??
JUSTIN SMITH WROTE: You'd still need a small subpanel.
Why? Please elaborate.


I'd be willing to bet the cord made by Champion isn't UL listed, either. I know the ones I've seen made by Briggs & Stratton and Generac aren't listed. But then again, most portable generators aren't UL listed either.
I would be pretty surprised if that was true.
 
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Old 07-07-14, 01:00 PM
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If the OP was wiring outlets off his 240 twist lock...
Just a note, and not sure if it even matters, its a 120V twist lock connector. No 240 on his gennie.
 
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Old 07-07-14, 09:34 PM
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Why? Please elaborate.
To convert the L5-30 receptacle on the generator to a 5-15. You can't put a 15 or 20A receptacle on a 30A breaker.

I would be pretty surprised if that was true.
Find me a cord with a 30A male wired to 15/20A female receptacles (without a breaker) that has a UL listing. I've yet to see one, and I've seen a few dozen.
 
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Old 07-08-14, 05:52 AM
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I was assuming we were talking about a 30A 240 twistlock. Fused with the pair of 20's. No subpanel would be needed in that case since you could extend the circuits like a multiwire circuit.


Just a note, and not sure if it even matters, its a 120V twist lock connector. No 240 on his gennie.
I guess I missed that.

None of this matters though, this renter needs to just open his wallet up and buy the proper extension cord.
 
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