(2) 15 Amp Outlets on Generators 30A Twistlock?
#1
07-05-14, 04:28 AM
(2) 15 Amp Outlets on Generators 30A Twistlock?
Trying to build a portable outlet box for use with a 3500/4000w generator. I have a 120v L5-30R twistlock at the generator, and id like to put two 15amp receptacles (one gfci using 12/2 inside) in a plastic box at the other end of a 50ft 10 gauge 300v exention cord to run into the house given an power outage occurs. My though initially is that is sounds like a recipe for disaster? Will the outlets overheat? Will the 12-2 get to hot ? The outlets will be for fridge, lights etc...nothing major. Home Depot basically sells the same setup cord for about $75
Champion Power Equipment 25 ft. 120-Volt Generator Power Cord-48034 at The Home Depot
I know it can be done somehow, just doesnt make sense to buy it when I already have the cord. Plus the generator is almost useless without a solution...
Champion Power Equipment 25 ft. 120-Volt Generator Power Cord-48034 at The Home Depot
I know it can be done somehow, just doesnt make sense to buy it when I already have the cord. Plus the generator is almost useless without a solution...
#2
07-05-14, 05:05 AM
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Your altered extension cord method is not going to fly. You need to use an inlet.
If your not going to be installing a transfer switch with your service you might consider supplying 2 circuits/outlets on the inside of the house using a 30A power inlet box like the Reliance PB30 mounted on the outside.
There would be no need to run cords thru windows, holes or doors and you wouldnt have to use a hacked extension cord as you suggest.
If your not going to be installing a transfer switch with your service you might consider supplying 2 circuits/outlets on the inside of the house using a 30A power inlet box like the Reliance PB30 mounted on the outside.
There would be no need to run cords thru windows, holes or doors and you wouldnt have to use a hacked extension cord as you suggest.
#3
07-05-14, 06:35 AM
Those receptacles Bigboypete has suggested would NOT have any connection to the house breaker box and should have a distinctive color.
Please read: http://www.doityourself.com/forum/el...generator.html
Please read: http://www.doityourself.com/forum/el...generator.html
#4
07-05-14, 10:15 AM
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Ray, I was not suggesting the OP backfeed his panel. Despite what my wife says, I am not a careless idiot.
#5
07-05-14, 10:41 AM
Ray, I was not suggesting the OP backfeed his panel
Klavoie, please read: http://www.doityourself.com/forum/el...asement-2.html
#6
07-05-14, 11:06 AM
The problem here is having too much amperage for the outlets, I get it, but wouldn't the power inlet box connected to 15a outlets pose the same problem?? And also , what makes this cord...
Amazon.com: Champion Power Equipment 25 foot Generator Cord: Electronics
......work but my cord would not?? Also, the generators circuit breaker is rated for only 25A, and if I'm correct, aren't 15A GFCI outlets safe for 20A use?? If so, would 5A really matter that much?? And if THAT is so, perhaps 20A outlets will work....? I am a frugal *******.......
Amazon.com: Champion Power Equipment 25 foot Generator Cord: Electronics
......work but my cord would not?? Also, the generators circuit breaker is rated for only 25A, and if I'm correct, aren't 15A GFCI outlets safe for 20A use?? If so, would 5A really matter that much?? And if THAT is so, perhaps 20A outlets will work....? I am a frugal *******.......
Last edited by Klavoie82; 07-05-14 at 12:08 PM.
#8
07-05-14, 12:14 PM
Rental changes every thing. I would use only extension cords from the generator. Cords can be run through panels fitted into an open window to seal it.
Your cord would work if you didn't modify it. Actually two #14 extension cords plugged into the 15 amp receptacles might work best and would be cheapest. You could use multipliers plugged into those to give you more places to plug in.
what makes this cord.......work but my cord would not?
Last edited by ray2047; 07-05-14 at 12:32 PM.
#9
07-05-14, 12:28 PM
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Ray is right, renting changes everything. You cannot be adding to the electricial system nor servicing the electrical system. And specifically to your case, you should not be be adding boxes, outlets etc for your self derived system, it is not your property.
#10
07-05-14, 12:45 PM
The box I am intending to create is a sealed portable plastic duplex box at the end of the 10/2 cord, it is not attached to any thing nor tied into anything in the house....
#11
07-05-14, 12:49 PM
Unfortunately, there is only one 20A plug on the gen...
http://www.amazon.com/Champion-Power...pion+generator
http://www.amazon.com/Champion-Power...pion+generator
#12
07-05-14, 12:52 PM
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The box I am intending to create is a sealed portable plastic duplex box at the end of the 10/2 cord
I don't think Underwriters Laboratory would like that very much....
Just got some high quality extension cords and use a tap/power strip of some sort.
#13
07-05-14, 01:13 PM
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The plastic box part concerns me from a code perspective and from a durability standpoint. IIRC the box needs a threaded hub so you would end up with a cast FS type box. Also the maximum circuit for general use is 20 amps.
#14
07-05-14, 01:24 PM
I think I'm just going to cough up the $90 for the correct cord and call it a day. I'm to concerned about the safety of the kids etc. and in the long run what's
$90 for peace of mind....thanks...
(Ps...I still don't quite understand why even in metal box this would not work provided I didn't exceed a 20a load??)
$90 for peace of mind....thanks...
(Ps...I still don't quite understand why even in metal box this would not work provided I didn't exceed a 20a load??)
#15
07-05-14, 02:00 PM
It would work but it would violate the UL approval to modify the cord.. You could make a box or two to plug into it using #14 SOJ cord, cord caps, and the box. Or just use a couple of power strips.
#17
07-05-14, 03:22 PM
You said you wanted to cut the end off the cord.
Perhaps if you can restate what you want to do now we can better answer your questions.
Trying to build a portable outlet box for use with a 3500/4000w generator. I have a 120v L5-30R twistlock at the generator, and id like to put two 15amp receptacles (one gfci using 12/2 inside) in a plastic box at the other end of a 50ft 10 gauge 300v exention cord
#18
07-05-14, 03:38 PM
Super Moderator
It might be simpler to get a cord similar to the one you linked, then run other cords from it to where you need power.
I know our rules say no advice against code, but I've seen many many homemade extension cords. (Hmmm...I think I even have one I picked up from a yard sale.) Normally they are made from spares and excess stuff laying around. Buying all the stuff retail to make one from scratch probably would cost as much or more as just buying one pre-made. Heck, looks like 25 ft of rubber coated 10 ga cable runs about $50 on it's own.
I know our rules say no advice against code, but I've seen many many homemade extension cords. (Hmmm...I think I even have one I picked up from a yard sale.) Normally they are made from spares and excess stuff laying around. Buying all the stuff retail to make one from scratch probably would cost as much or more as just buying one pre-made. Heck, looks like 25 ft of rubber coated 10 ga cable runs about $50 on it's own.
#19
07-05-14, 04:07 PM
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Guys, he already has the bulk cord, all he wants to do is make it into an extension cord by affixing the correct ends, a twist-lok plug and a receptacle. I see nothing wrong with doing so although it would be better to use a straight blade plug at the generator because the receptacle is much more likely to be protected at 20 amperes vs. the 30 amperes of the twist-lok.
#20
07-05-14, 04:31 PM
he already has the bulk cord, all he wants to do is make it into an extension cord by affixing the correct ends, a twist-lok plug and a receptacle.
#21
07-05-14, 04:56 PM
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he already has the bulk cord, all he wants to do is make it into an extension cord by affixing the correct ends, a twist-lok plug and a receptacle.
#23
07-05-14, 06:37 PM
Well he could put together a portable subpanel with two 15 amp breakers and two or more duplex receptacles using #10 SOWJ, L5-30P cord cap, and a 60a main lug panel but that may be more then he wants to do.
#24
07-05-14, 08:53 PM
The ordinary duplex receptacle unit must be protected by a breaker of no more than 20 amps. Since the generator twist lock receptacle is protected by a 30 amp breaker, you must have a 15 or 20 amp breaker downstream, for example in a portable subpanel as suggested above at the end of the extension cord assembly being constructed.
Things will work correctly without the 20 amp breaker in between, drawing no more amps during normal operation. But ordinary lights, refrigerators, etc.(with ordinary 15 amp plugs) are expected to be on circuits no greater than 20 amps. A spontaneous unforeseen malfunction could be very hazardous if a 30 amp circuit were being used.
Things will work correctly without the 20 amp breaker in between, drawing no more amps during normal operation. But ordinary lights, refrigerators, etc.(with ordinary 15 amp plugs) are expected to be on circuits no greater than 20 amps. A spontaneous unforeseen malfunction could be very hazardous if a 30 amp circuit were being used.
#25
07-05-14, 11:21 PM
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To be clear, that cord he linked, made by Champion power equipment is a tri-tap extension cord with a 30A twist lock end. The receptacles are still fused at 30A. If he wants to do this safely, he should get a 2-space main lug panel, run a 10/3 SOOW cord into it through a chinese finger and myers hub. He should then wire in 2 GFCI receptacles, each one on it's own 15 or 20A breaker. Mounted all to a piece of heavy plywood painted nicely, and he will have a perfectly safe temporary rig. I have one I can post a picture of next time I'm online, but mine is way bigger than yours would be.
#27
07-06-14, 06:06 AM
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JUSTIN SMITH WROTE: If he wants to do this safely, he should get a 2-space main lug panel, run a 10/3 SOOW cord into it through a chinese finger and myers hub. He should then wire in 2 GFCI receptacles, each one on it's own 15 or 20A breaker. Mounted all to a piece of heavy plywood painted nicely, and he will have a perfectly safe temporary rig. I have one I can post a picture of next time I'm online, but mine is way bigger than yours would be.
That's right, you didn't... so you shouldn't be assuming the OP's ability to construct unlisted electrical devices or his intended application of such a device.
To the OP, perhaps you might speak to your landlord nicely and see what he might allow in regards to installing an inlet box or a transfer switch setup.
#28
07-06-14, 06:36 AM
To the OP, perhaps you might speak to your landlord nicely and see what he might allow in regards to installing an inlet box or a transfer switch setup.
He could care less, its more about cost factor. That said, I really like the inlet idea, but again wouldn't i still have 30A going to two 15A outlets??
He could care less, its more about cost factor. That said, I really like the inlet idea, but again wouldn't i still have 30A going to two 15A outlets??
Last edited by Klavoie82; 07-06-14 at 07:04 AM.
#29
07-06-14, 07:43 AM
To the OP, perhaps you might speak to your landlord nicely and see what he might allow in regards to installing an inlet box or a transfer switch setup.
#30
07-07-14, 11:21 AM
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He could care less, its more about cost factor. That said, I really like the inlet idea, but again wouldn't i still have 30A going to two 15A outlets??
How much did it cost to get that rig of yours UL approved?
That's right, you didn't... so you shouldn't be assuming the OP's ability to construct unlisted electrical devices or his intended application of such a device.
That's right, you didn't... so you shouldn't be assuming the OP's ability to construct unlisted electrical devices or his intended application of such a device.
#31
07-07-14, 11:50 AM
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He could care less, its more about cost factor. That said, I really like the inlet idea, but again wouldn't i still have 30A going to two 15A outlets??
JUSTIN SMITH WROTE: You'd still need a small subpanel.
I'd be willing to bet the cord made by Champion isn't UL listed, either. I know the ones I've seen made by Briggs & Stratton and Generac aren't listed. But then again, most portable generators aren't UL listed either.
#32
07-07-14, 12:00 PM
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If the OP was wiring outlets off his 240 twist lock...
#33
07-07-14, 08:34 PM
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Why? Please elaborate.
I would be pretty surprised if that was true.
#34
07-08-14, 04:52 AM
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I was assuming we were talking about a 30A 240 twistlock. Fused with the pair of 20's. No subpanel would be needed in that case since you could extend the circuits like a multiwire circuit.
I guess I missed that.
None of this matters though, this renter needs to just open his wallet up and buy the proper extension cord.
Just a note, and not sure if it even matters, its a 120V twist lock connector. No 240 on his gennie.
None of this matters though, this renter needs to just open his wallet up and buy the proper extension cord.
