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Intermatic T104 Pool Timer - Off Tripper Turns Off The Clock

Intermatic T104 Pool Timer - Off Tripper Turns Off The Clock

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  #1  
Old 07-23-14, 01:36 PM
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Intermatic T104 Pool Timer - Off Tripper Turns Off The Clock

Greetings,

I recently purchased a T104 intermatic pool timer and wired it up with 120v configuration. The wire configuration was "slot A" was left alone, the bare ground wire went to the ground bolt (peach), the hot wire line (black) to slot 1 and load to slot 2, the neutral wire line (red) went to slot 3 and load to slot 4. My timer clock will appropriately run until it hits an off tripper, but then the clock stops running. I assume that i perhaps mis-wired the set up and both the clock and pool pump turn off at once when tripped. Any help would be appreciated. Attached is a picture diagram of how I have wired my timer. The slot 1 and slot 3 have the white connection wires (not seen in the pic i drew) which run to the timer itself. The left sided black box is the fuse box and the black oval is my pump (electricty flowing from left to right).

Mike
 
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  #2  
Old 07-23-14, 06:00 PM
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You should be able to see the 2 wires from the clock motor,make sure one is connected to the line from the breaker and the other should be connected to neutral.
From intermatic:

Locate the two input power cables that come from the breaker. Connect one to terminal 1 and the other to terminal 3. Terminals 1 and 3 are called the "Lines". Note: it does not matter what color goes to 1 or 3. It only matters that one cable is on 1 and the other is on 3.

Geo
 
  #3  
Old 07-23-14, 06:29 PM
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Geo's got you covered.

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On your timer..... it doesn't say Neutral over the A terminal....... does it ?
 
  #4  
Old 07-24-14, 06:36 AM
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The wiring configuration I am using has the current set up the way that it is listed on your posted diagram. The A terminal is not listed as neutral. For some reason when the power switch is off to the box (tripper turns it off) the clock itself loses power as well so it never turns to hit the on tripper... Perhaps it makes a difference in my hot wire (line 1) and neutral (line 2) being in slot 1 and slot 3? Should I move hot wire (line 1) to slot 3 and neutral (line 2) to slot 1?
 
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Old 07-24-14, 06:39 AM
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Further information: When tested both my line 1 (slot 1) and load 1 (slot 2) are HOT when tested with a Non-Contact Voltage Tester; both test HOT even when the power is off on the throw switch below the clock. My neutral wire which is line 2 (slot 3) and load 2 (slot 4) test COLD.
 
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Old 07-24-14, 07:49 AM
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When tested both my line 1 (slot 1) and load 1 (slot 2) are HOT when tested with a Non-Contact Voltage Tester; both test HOT even when the power is off on the throw switch below the clock.
Part of your problem is that you cannot get reliable results when troubleshooting with a non-contact tester, put it away. You need to be checking voltages and need a multimeter or solenoid tester to do that. In your first post you say you have 1 hot line, 1 neutral (red in your drawing) and 1 bare ground feeding the T 104 clock. Unless I am mistaken, the clock motor is rated for 208-277 volts and in a residential setting would need 240 volts to operate. I am thinking that you're reading 120 volts feeding through the clock motor with the non-contact tester and do not have 240 volts. I am also confused how you ever got the clock motor to operate at all without having 240 volts to the clock motor. My opinion is that you bought the wrong clock.

CLOCK MOTOR: 208-277 VOLTS - 60 HZ.
CLOCK MOTOR VOLTAGE AND CYCLE MUST BE AS SPECIFIED
http://www.intermatic.com/~/media/In...tructions.ashx

Also in my opinion, you might be able to use this clock if you pull another hot leg to the clock in order to have 240 volts to operate the clock motor.
 
  #7  
Old 07-24-14, 09:18 AM
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Thanks for the information CasualJoe. I am indeed using a 120V setup. I had mistakenly purchased this 240V clock as the previous owner of my home informed me the "pump was on a 240V fusebox"... however it reverts to 120V wiring after the box. I read a few things online about how the 240V intermatic T104 could run with a 120V circuit... hence why I attempted to wire it in per the diagram. Do you think that the 120V input is not enough to functionally turn the clock when the off tripper turns the switch off?
 
  #8  
Old 07-24-14, 09:33 AM
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The clock motor is rated for 240 volts,that's what it will require to run the clock motor,you could replace the motor with a 120 volt motor if you can't return that time clock.
Geo
 
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Old 07-24-14, 01:55 PM
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Do you think that the 120V input is not enough to functionally turn the clock when the off tripper turns the switch off?
No, the clock needs 240 volt according to Intermatic. You have 1 hot leg, 1 neutral and 1 ground at the clock already. The T 104 wouldn't have been my choice, but if you can pull the other hot leg you'll have 240 volts to run the clock and then I believe it can be made to work.
 
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Old 07-24-14, 07:47 PM
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I'm a little confused.... your original drawing showed red and black wiring. Are you using the red wire as a neutral ?

Ok... I just went back and re-read where you said you are using red as neutral..... not a great idea.

I'm trying to figure how the clock moved at all on 120vac. It shouldn't have.
Maybe it "just" ran on 120v and when it hit the tripper it stalled.
 
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Old 07-25-14, 07:29 AM
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Ok... I just went back and re-read where you said you are using red as neutral..... not a great idea.
PJ, the OP didn't say, but I suspect the red was used for the neutral in just the drawing. If he did use red as a neutral in the installation, I agree it isn't a good idea to do so.
 
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