Any special rules for outdoor or dining room receptacles?
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Any special rules for outdoor or dining room receptacles?
What I wanted to do was add a circuit to my panel that would feed several duplex or quad receptacles along a wall that serves as both a dining room and living room wall. Since it is also an outside wall I wanted it to serve a GFCI outlet in a weatherproof in-use box. Would there be a problem hanging all of this off a single 20A circuit?
Also, is there a general guideline for how far off the floor the outlets should be?
Also, is there a general guideline for how far off the floor the outlets should be?
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run 3 circuits..............living room.....dining room.........take a circuit to the outside outlet by itself..use 12-2 wg NM wire
the code does not care how high outlets or switches are
the code does not care how high outlets or switches are
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I was worried about that. Currently my house is so badly wired that the circuit currently in the dining room services the living room and some bedroom receptacles and fixtures. GFCI required for just outside or for the dining room as well?
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No counters. Okay, so with that info, here is what I am going to do.
Circuit 1 will feed the dining room. CAFI 20A breaker (QO120CAFI) and 12/2 NM.
Circuit 2 will feed the outside GFI outlet. Standard 20A breaker and 12/2 NM.
Circuit 3 will feed the living room. CAFI 20A breaker and 12/2 NM.
Circuit 4 will feed the adjacent laundry room GFI outlet. Standard 20A breaker and 12/2 NM.
When using plastic boxes, cables should be affixed to a stud within 12 or 18 inches, correct?
Circuit 1 will feed the dining room. CAFI 20A breaker (QO120CAFI) and 12/2 NM.
Circuit 2 will feed the outside GFI outlet. Standard 20A breaker and 12/2 NM.
Circuit 3 will feed the living room. CAFI 20A breaker and 12/2 NM.
Circuit 4 will feed the adjacent laundry room GFI outlet. Standard 20A breaker and 12/2 NM.
When using plastic boxes, cables should be affixed to a stud within 12 or 18 inches, correct?
#10
I am also going to recommend using a gfci breaker instead of a gfci outlet. It'll be a little more expensive, but they last longer than a gfci outside.
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I thought since there are no fasteners on the plastic boxes that the nm had to be stapled near the entrance to the box.
I'll look into prices of the GFCI breakers. If I can get it for under $40 I may go for it. The 50A that feeds my garage was almost $100!
I'll look into prices of the GFCI breakers. If I can get it for under $40 I may go for it. The 50A that feeds my garage was almost $100!
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I thought since there are no fasteners on the plastic boxes that the nm had to be stapled near the entrance to the box.
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Ah, good to see parts of the code are pragmatic. Part of the impetus to this work is that we will be re-rocking the S. wall, so I'll have an opportunity to put in new work boxes and nail plates. However that info will help as I'll be running that blue circuit to two other walls and those I won't be opening.
Thanks for the help, that gives me enough confidence to order the permit.
Thanks for the help, that gives me enough confidence to order the permit.
#14
The cable needs to be secured within 8" of new work single gang boxes. On boxes with clamps the cable needs to be secured within 12".
#15
I'll look into prices of the GFCI breakers. If I can get it for under $40 I may go for it. The 50A that feeds my garage was almost $100!
I cannot think of a single reason why a garage would ever be required to be fed with a 50A 2P GFCI breaker. Is there some special use out there we are not aware of?
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I was contracting at the time and had occasion to work on computers so I dedicated a 20A circuit to those, a 20A to the lighting (yeah, overkill), a 20A for power tools, an outside dedicated 20A circuit, and a 30A 240V for a prospective air compressor.
GFCI was just so that I could eliminate buying a GFCI breaker for each circuit in the subpanel.
GFCI was just so that I could eliminate buying a GFCI breaker for each circuit in the subpanel.
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That came up in the original thread too. In the end it seemed more efficient than buying two 20A GFCI breakers, a 30A GFCI breaker and an outdoor GFCI outlet. The one significant issue that was raised was that if the GFI was tripped then I'd lose power to the entire garage. This did happen and I founs out that the neutral wire on the 30A circuit had its insulation split when my buddy took the outer jacket off. I didn't notice until enough change in the temperature caused metal to show and it made contact with the panel.
#19
That came up in the original thread too. In the end it seemed more efficient than buying two 20A GFCI breakers, a 30A GFCI breaker and an outdoor GFCI outlet. The one significant issue that was raised was that if the GFI was tripped then I'd lose power to the entire garage. This did happen and I founs out that the neutral wire on the 30A circuit had its insulation split when my buddy took the outer jacket off. I didn't notice until enough change in the temperature caused metal to show and it made contact with the panel.
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the air compressor didn't need GFCI protection since it is a 240 volt circuit.
TRUE.........the only use of a GFCI IS KEEP SOME HUMAN FROM GETTING KILLED..you play with the compressor all the time …..........or your son..........your wife
within a code or 2................the whole house will be GFCI or arc-fault protected.
Outside GFCI outlet...................NEC requires a WR GFCI outlet now if it is outside..............
GFCI's are electronic and do not respond well to water...........a GFCI breaker will live longer inside a dry panel box...............and when the OUTSIDE outlet rusted out ….......replacement would be cheep.........................folks.........if this is your house.......don't use the 43 cent outlet....its only good if you DO NOT USE IT................USE A SPEC GRADE OUTLET...............COST $3 to $5.....it will LAST 10 to 20 times longer.......and.........the plug(cord cap) will stay in.
GIVE THE WATER A WAY OUT.......................most weather proof boxes keep water IN a lot better than OUT..................so,make a drain hole.........drill 2 1/8 in holes in the bottom of a surface mounted bell box...................
NEC 334.30............NM cable needs to be secured within 12 in of all boxes unless
NEC 334.30 (B) (1) fished........
NEC 334.30 2 OR 3 OTHER SPECIAL LOCATIONS
YOU MAY PLACE THE WASHER AND DRYER OUTLETS ABOVE THE UNITS
THE POINT OF MANY GFCI outlets vs 1 GFCI BREAKER...............one in each bathroom.................garage..............outside rear................outside front............
....IS.LOCAL TRIPPING AND LOCAL CONTROL AND RESET
TRUE.........the only use of a GFCI IS KEEP SOME HUMAN FROM GETTING KILLED..you play with the compressor all the time …..........or your son..........your wife
within a code or 2................the whole house will be GFCI or arc-fault protected.
Outside GFCI outlet...................NEC requires a WR GFCI outlet now if it is outside..............
GFCI's are electronic and do not respond well to water...........a GFCI breaker will live longer inside a dry panel box...............and when the OUTSIDE outlet rusted out ….......replacement would be cheep.........................folks.........if this is your house.......don't use the 43 cent outlet....its only good if you DO NOT USE IT................USE A SPEC GRADE OUTLET...............COST $3 to $5.....it will LAST 10 to 20 times longer.......and.........the plug(cord cap) will stay in.
GIVE THE WATER A WAY OUT.......................most weather proof boxes keep water IN a lot better than OUT..................so,make a drain hole.........drill 2 1/8 in holes in the bottom of a surface mounted bell box...................
NEC 334.30............NM cable needs to be secured within 12 in of all boxes unless
NEC 334.30 (B) (1) fished........
NEC 334.30 2 OR 3 OTHER SPECIAL LOCATIONS
YOU MAY PLACE THE WASHER AND DRYER OUTLETS ABOVE THE UNITS
THE POINT OF MANY GFCI outlets vs 1 GFCI BREAKER...............one in each bathroom.................garage..............outside rear................outside front............
....IS.LOCAL TRIPPING AND LOCAL CONTROL AND RESET
#21
John, you are going to have to invest in a better keyboard, hoss. It seems to keep popping up all caps, and incomplete sentences. What gives with that? Receptacles are "outlets".. so are light fixture boxes, so the term "receptacle" would be more precise.
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chandler, sorry about the caps. ray told me it meant I was yelling. I did not know that. I will not do it. I did not mean to yell at anyone. I apologize to any and everyone I upset by yelling!
Ok, from now we will only install “Receptacle outlet” and “lighting outlet”.
What term should I use for the device we mount on the wall to “control electric energy” and make the”lighting outlet” go on and off.
if i use other wrong terms please point them out as i am fairly new at electric work. i will take all the help i can get. thanks again!
Ok, from now we will only install “Receptacle outlet” and “lighting outlet”.
What term should I use for the device we mount on the wall to “control electric energy” and make the”lighting outlet” go on and off.
if i use other wrong terms please point them out as i am fairly new at electric work. i will take all the help i can get. thanks again!
#23
Just receptacle, light, and switch is fine.
Are you typing this on a smart phone? I have a 7" tablet that I avoid typing on like the plague so I can understand if you are trying to use an on screen keyboard. All caps meaning shouting goes back to the days when Usenet was king and there were almost no forums on the Internet. That rule carried over to Internet when forums became king on the web.
Are you typing this on a smart phone? I have a 7" tablet that I avoid typing on like the plague so I can understand if you are trying to use an on screen keyboard. All caps meaning shouting goes back to the days when Usenet was king and there were almost no forums on the Internet. That rule carried over to Internet when forums became king on the web.
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if i use other wrong terms please point them out as i am fairly new at electric work. i will take all the help i can get. thanks again!
Also, it would help if you used standard Americanized English in your writing. That means starting a sentence with a capital letter and also capitalizing the I when referring to yourself.
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furd, thanks for all the pointers. Some old-timers are not as helpful.
if i use other wrong terms please point them out as i am fairly new at electric work.
I would think many “master electricians” have less “hands on” than such as yourself.
One day maybe I will be in a class such as you. Thanks again
as for caps,chandler and ray say “no caps”. All that up and down is just 2 much. We will just stay down here in lower case. Same letters. No yelling! Chandler, ray; I just saw that o,i,t,a,w,s,n,and c. I did not do caps. The machine did the caps. and now a t. I told furd earlyer about the witch.
if i use other wrong terms please point them out as i am fairly new at electric work.
I would think many “master electricians” have less “hands on” than such as yourself.
One day maybe I will be in a class such as you. Thanks again
as for caps,chandler and ray say “no caps”. All that up and down is just 2 much. We will just stay down here in lower case. Same letters. No yelling! Chandler, ray; I just saw that o,i,t,a,w,s,n,and c. I did not do caps. The machine did the caps. and now a t. I told furd earlyer about the witch.