HVAC Install
#1
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 1,851
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
HVAC Install
My nephew bought a foreclosure house in which the original central heat/cool self contained package unit is missing. The house was built in 1998 and looks like it was wired to 1996 code. [4 wire receptacles for the range and dryer and so forth] We have selected a new unit to install which will be 2 tons straight cooling with a 7kw heat strip; the new unit is not a heat pump. Currently, there is a 70 amp 2 pole CB in the 200 amp main panel marked heat and air. Outside, there is a 3R pullout type disconnect box with a lid that flips up. I think it's metal, but didn't check to be sure. The guts for the box are not around. The only thing inside the box are 2 large insulated hot wires and a bare aluminum ground wire all coming from the main panel which is inside the house. The hot wires look like they might be #4. At this time, I don't know if the hot wires are aluminum or copper and I don't know the insulation type. I think the old unit was probably a heat pump with backup heat strips. As you probably know, when a heat pump is in a defrost cycle, both the compressor and heat strips are energized as well as the indoor fan motor. The 70 amp CB in the main panel is why I think the old unit was a heat pump. It appears that the original electrician used the box outside as a junction box. There are no disconnects outside.
The new unit:
The MCA for the cooling section is 12.2 amps, the MOPD is 20 amps.
The MCA for the heat strips is 38 amps, the MOPD is 40 amps. The heat strips consist of a bolt in module that includes a 40 amp 2 pole circuit breaker intregal to the module.
The plan:
1. Reuse the existing box outside as a JB.
2. Install a 30 amp, 3R, 2 pole fused disconect adjacent to the JB. Run 3 #12's [2 blacks and a green] from the JB to the disconnect in Sealtite, then run 3 #12's from the disconnect to the unit in Sealtite. Install 2 20 amp DETD fuses in the disconnect.
3. Run 2 #8 blacks and a #10 green from the JB to the heating section in Sealtite.
4. Replace the 70 amp breaker in the main panel with a 40 amp breaker.
Questions:
1. Can I use the box outside as a JB?
2. Do I need to put an additional disconnect on the outside wall for the heating section? The CB that comes with the heat strips will be inside the unit.
3. Who makes connectors that can mate aluminum and copper conductors? I mean a split bolt or lug style, not wirenuts. I've seen them before- I know you have to put the anticorrosion goop on.
4. Am I missing anything?
Thanks in advance. John D.
The new unit:
The MCA for the cooling section is 12.2 amps, the MOPD is 20 amps.
The MCA for the heat strips is 38 amps, the MOPD is 40 amps. The heat strips consist of a bolt in module that includes a 40 amp 2 pole circuit breaker intregal to the module.
The plan:
1. Reuse the existing box outside as a JB.
2. Install a 30 amp, 3R, 2 pole fused disconect adjacent to the JB. Run 3 #12's [2 blacks and a green] from the JB to the disconnect in Sealtite, then run 3 #12's from the disconnect to the unit in Sealtite. Install 2 20 amp DETD fuses in the disconnect.
3. Run 2 #8 blacks and a #10 green from the JB to the heating section in Sealtite.
4. Replace the 70 amp breaker in the main panel with a 40 amp breaker.
Questions:
1. Can I use the box outside as a JB?
2. Do I need to put an additional disconnect on the outside wall for the heating section? The CB that comes with the heat strips will be inside the unit.
3. Who makes connectors that can mate aluminum and copper conductors? I mean a split bolt or lug style, not wirenuts. I've seen them before- I know you have to put the anticorrosion goop on.
4. Am I missing anything?
Thanks in advance. John D.
#3
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 1,851
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
Thank you very much. That is a most excellent idea. I can't read the part # in the photo. I found a QO24L60NRNM at the Schneider website. Non-metallic, 60 amp, 3R, fixed main lugs. 2 spaces, 4 circuits. It includes a nuetral bar. Is this about what I need? Can I use the nuetral bar for the ground wires?
#4
Is this about what I need? Can I use the neutral bar for the ground wires?
3. Who makes connectors that can mate aluminum and copper conductors? I mean a split bolt or lug style, not wirenuts. I've seen them before- I know you have to put the anticorrosion goop on.
Others are available at electrical supply houses.
#6
That particular one is a QO24L70RBCP.
It'll come with a bonding screw to bond the neutral bar to the can and it's a metallic enclosure.
Pretty common at home centers and supply houses.
It'll come with a bonding screw to bond the neutral bar to the can and it's a metallic enclosure.
Pretty common at home centers and supply houses.
#7
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 1,851
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
Ok. Thanks wirenut. The one I looked up has a non-metallic enclosure. I got to wondering that if I used a knockout punch on it if the enclosure would crack. I think I'll stick with a metal enclosure coz that's what I'm familiar with. Thanks again.
#8
Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: usa
Posts: 258
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
leave the 70 amp breaker alone................replace the outside box with a 6 or 8 circuit rain tight box
into which you can put 2 full size double pole circuit breakers
6 CIRCUIT WOULD BE FINE,SINCE YOU CAN NOT USE THIS BOX FOR 120 VOLT CIRCUIT..........YOU HAVE NO WHITE WIRE.
SQUARE "D" BRAND TYPE"QO" IS THE BEST AND HAS A COPPER BUS
SQUARE "D" BRAND TYPE HOMELINE HAS AN ALUMINUM BUS...NUFF SAID
YOU CAN NOT PUT 2 DOUBLE POLE CIRCUIT BREAKERS IN THE ANY OF THE BOXES NOTED EARLIER
YOU MAY BOND THE NEUTRAL BAR TO THE BOX AND PLACE ALL THE GROUND WIRES ON IT SINCE YOU HAVE NO NEUTRAL (WHITE WIRE) FROM THE FIRST PANEL...THIS WILL BE A 220 (aka 240) ONLY PANEL
into which you can put 2 full size double pole circuit breakers
6 CIRCUIT WOULD BE FINE,SINCE YOU CAN NOT USE THIS BOX FOR 120 VOLT CIRCUIT..........YOU HAVE NO WHITE WIRE.
SQUARE "D" BRAND TYPE"QO" IS THE BEST AND HAS A COPPER BUS
SQUARE "D" BRAND TYPE HOMELINE HAS AN ALUMINUM BUS...NUFF SAID
YOU CAN NOT PUT 2 DOUBLE POLE CIRCUIT BREAKERS IN THE ANY OF THE BOXES NOTED EARLIER
YOU MAY BOND THE NEUTRAL BAR TO THE BOX AND PLACE ALL THE GROUND WIRES ON IT SINCE YOU HAVE NO NEUTRAL (WHITE WIRE) FROM THE FIRST PANEL...THIS WILL BE A 220 (aka 240) ONLY PANEL