New oven - direct or plug connection
#1
07-30-14, 06:02 AM
New oven - direct or plug connection
Just got a new oven, 240 v, 5.1 kW, 30 amp circuit req'd.
Old oven has 50 amp breaker w. 4 wire 50 amp wall plug.
New oven install manual states that oven's wiring should be connected directly to the junction box.
Is there any problem if I use a male 50 amp, 4 wire plug and utilize the existing connection instead of direct wiring?
Thanks.
Old oven has 50 amp breaker w. 4 wire 50 amp wall plug.
New oven install manual states that oven's wiring should be connected directly to the junction box.
Is there any problem if I use a male 50 amp, 4 wire plug and utilize the existing connection instead of direct wiring?
Thanks.
Last edited by mtujohn; 07-30-14 at 06:19 AM.
#3
07-30-14, 06:45 AM
Forum Topic Moderator
The electrical code requires that the manufacturer instructions be followed. The unit is not designed or listed for use with a cord and plug. Hardwire the unit and change the breaker.
#5
07-30-14, 07:19 AM
sure put a plug on it
New oven install manual states that oven's wiring should be connected directly to the junction box
Last edited by ray2047; 07-31-14 at 08:25 PM.
#6
07-30-14, 07:31 AM
Member
I would call the manufacture (ask to talk to engineering) and ask why a plug cannot be used. I never saw an electric range that does not plug into an outlet. I'm not advocating to go against the printed manufactures instructions but sometimes printed instructions don't always coincide with what can or cannot be done and still be within code.
edit: Many years ago I installed many dishwashers with outlets when in fact instructions said to hardwire it. Now days many brands suggest a plug in outlet .
edit: Many years ago I installed many dishwashers with outlets when in fact instructions said to hardwire it. Now days many brands suggest a plug in outlet .
#7
07-30-14, 07:38 AM
Don't disagree, Norm, but since both the receptacle and breaker are wrong why spend money on a new receptacle and plug when you can just hard wire it. If it come with a whip then that would be a third problem. The whip wouldn't probably be rated for use with a plug.
#8
07-30-14, 07:47 AM
Member
My feeling are that since the breaker needs changing anyway,why not do both. I would like the luxury or convenience to move the unit when and if I need to clean, redo the floor or any other remodeling job that might need to move the range. Also when replacement time comes nothing is easier than plug in plug out.
#10
07-30-14, 08:01 AM
Member
I never saw an electric range that does not plug into an outlet.
mtujohn
Just got a new oven, 240 v, 5.1 kW, 30 amp circuit req'd.
Just got a new oven, 240 v, 5.1 kW, 30 amp circuit req'd.
#13
07-30-14, 08:43 AM
i assume we are talking about a..................wall-mounted oven.............
not a range (oven and cook top in one unit.)
befor you install the oven
MEASURE......................where is the cord going as you slide in the oven
a loop of string over the top of the oven might help to pull the cord loop up
you might have to remove part of the cabinet back to make room for the cord
you might have to remove part of the drywall to make room for the cord.
you may have to turn the outlet and recesse it into the wall
not a range (oven and cook top in one unit.)
befor you install the oven
MEASURE......................where is the cord going as you slide in the oven
a loop of string over the top of the oven might help to pull the cord loop up
you might have to remove part of the cabinet back to make room for the cord
you might have to remove part of the drywall to make room for the cord.
you may have to turn the outlet and recesse it into the wall
#14
07-30-14, 09:02 AM
Section 90-4. The authority having jurisdiction, often a government official of a building department for a city, county, state or federal agency, is responsible for enforcing the Code. Other persons who may be responsible are insurance inspectors and fire marshals
The inspector's responsibilities are to enforce the requirements of the Code, determine product approval, give special permission where necessary, and permit alternate material and installation methods to insure a safe installation. In addition, the inspector must insure that electrical products are installed according to the manufacturer's instructions and without unauthorized modifications.
The inspector's responsibilities are to enforce the requirements of the Code, determine product approval, give special permission where necessary, and permit alternate material and installation methods to insure a safe installation. In addition, the inspector must insure that electrical products are installed according to the manufacturer's instructions and without unauthorized modifications.
Last edited by ray2047; 07-30-14 at 09:23 AM.
#15
07-30-14, 09:53 AM
original device was a complete range (oven and stovetop). New unit is oven only. I will point out that the mfg'r instructions specify "SHOULD BE connected directly to the junction box", not "must be". It is an IKEA oven.
#16
07-30-14, 10:01 AM
edit: Many years ago I installed many dishwashers with outlets when in fact instructions said to hardwire it. Now days many brands suggest a plug in outlet .
NEC 422.16 (B) STATES THAT disposers,dishwashers,and trash compactors
.....................shall be permitted to be cord-and-plug-connected ..........
somewhere in the code our local inspectors have desided that ALL ELECT STUFF..........MUST HAVE A disconnect......this started in2008 or 2011 code.
so now the disposer is pluged in a switched outlet under the sink.
the dish washer is pluged in a hot outlet under the sink.
all because 422.16 (B) (1) (4) and 422.16 (B) (2) (5)
SAYS.................The receptacle shall be accessible.
dishwashers used to be hardwired................than a receptacle behind the unit............now an accessible outlet over to the side
this does make it safer for the dishwasher repair person.
a GREAT deal of the NEC is drived by insurance companys...........AND if they can save one life (or avoid one claim) it is worth any amount MY (YOUR) MONEY.
RANT OVER
IF YOU ARE DOING ELECTRIC WORK AND GET A PERMITT and will have an inspector.................. talk to the inspector...................try to talk to the one who will come out to your job..........ask him how he would like IT done.
at this stage.........".how he would like IT done"........IS ALL THATS COUNTS.
DIFFERENT inspectors can read the same code and demand a different installation.
NEC 422.16 (B) STATES THAT disposers,dishwashers,and trash compactors
.....................shall be permitted to be cord-and-plug-connected ..........
somewhere in the code our local inspectors have desided that ALL ELECT STUFF..........MUST HAVE A disconnect......this started in2008 or 2011 code.
so now the disposer is pluged in a switched outlet under the sink.
the dish washer is pluged in a hot outlet under the sink.
all because 422.16 (B) (1) (4) and 422.16 (B) (2) (5)
SAYS.................The receptacle shall be accessible.
dishwashers used to be hardwired................than a receptacle behind the unit............now an accessible outlet over to the side
this does make it safer for the dishwasher repair person.
a GREAT deal of the NEC is drived by insurance companys...........AND if they can save one life (or avoid one claim) it is worth any amount MY (YOUR) MONEY.
RANT OVER
IF YOU ARE DOING ELECTRIC WORK AND GET A PERMITT and will have an inspector.................. talk to the inspector...................try to talk to the one who will come out to your job..........ask him how he would like IT done.
at this stage.........".how he would like IT done"........IS ALL THATS COUNTS.
DIFFERENT inspectors can read the same code and demand a different installation.
#19
07-31-14, 05:16 AM
Forum Topic Moderator
Sometimes it is just a matter of what testing the manufacturer wants to pay for. There is no need to pay for testing for a cord and plug on the oven since it does not meet the criteria to be connected with a cord. The oven is not subject to vibration or require frequent exchange.
