Twist lock plugs in work room part 2

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Old 08-15-14, 06:26 PM
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Twist lock plugs in work room part 2

I would like to install a few twist lock plugs and have an extension cord with it for some tools and an appliance whip for the hydronic boiler for power outages so I could plug in to a generator hook up.

After being warned here my first plan to use L6-30 was a code violation, I picked up a few L5-15p and L5-15r combos. If I understand the instructions correctly, I can not use solid wire and can only used braided wire on the plug.

It does not seem logical to me, is this correct?

thank you,
 
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Old 08-15-14, 06:39 PM
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If I understand the instructions correctly, I can not use solid wire and can only used braided wire on the plug.
Only you have seen the instructions, what do they say? Can you post them or provide us the manufacturer and catalog numbers of the cord caps?
 
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Old 08-15-14, 06:48 PM
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Cord caps are not listed for use on building wiring like NM cable.

Cord caps are for use on flex cord like SO cable.
 
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Old 08-15-14, 07:13 PM
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Only you have seen the instructions, what do they say? Can you post them or provide us the manufacturer and catalog numbers of the cord caps?

This is the plug I was considering (actually have already purchased) for the boiler and the tool room extension cords:


Plugs > Locking Wiring Devices > Electrical Wiring Devices > Products from Leviton Electrical and Electronic Products



WARNING: TO AVOID FIRE, SHOCK OR DEATH; UNPLUG CORD OR TURN OFF POWER AT CIRCUIT BREAKER OR FUSE AND TEST THAT POWER IS OFF BEFORE WIRING!
1. Select size and type of round cord as per your requirements.
2. Loosen assembly screws and separate device body from housing.
3. Determine if cable is larger than GAGE on the back of housing. Back out clamp screws to remove strain relief insert if required. The device strain relief will accomodate cords
from .230 to .430 with strain relief insert installed, and from .430 to .700 with strain relief insert removed as per cable gage on housing (see Table 1).
4. Feed wiring cord through housing.
5. Strip cord jacket 15/16" (2.38 cm). Strip each conductor insulation 9/16" (1.43 cm) as per Fig. 1. or as per strip GAGE molded on the back of wiring cover.
6. Connect wires: Carefully back out all terminal wiring screws until edge of backwire clamp is not visible in wire well. Twist the strands of each stripped conductor tightly together,
and insert into proper wire well (see Table 2). Tighten wiring screw firmly to 12-14 in.-Ibs. torque. CHECK FOR STRAY WIRE STRANDS. Repeat for all conductors.
NOTE: Where applicable it is recommended to connect GROUND wire first.
CAUTION: Wiring clamps MUST contact on conductor only, NOT on insulation. DO NOT USE SOLID WIRE. DO NOT TIN CONDUCTORS.
7. Reattach the wired module to the housing by aligning key guide on the module to the key on the housing, and tighten the assembly screws firmly to 10-14 in.-Ibs. torque.
Firmly secure cord clamp on to housing by alternately tightening cord clamp screws to 12-14 in.-lbs. torque.
NOTE: Polarity of wiring for NEMA devices is identified by markings on device and/or screw color as shown below.
Polarity of wiring for NON-NEMA devices refer to existing installation.
 

Last edited by Kiton; 08-15-14 at 07:35 PM.
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Old 08-15-14, 07:21 PM
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Cord caps are not listed for use on building wiring like NM cable.

Cord caps are for use on flex cord like SO cable.

Thank you pcboss,

So the tool room setup is fine, the extension just has to be a decent grade SO wire but the L5-15r side can be hardwired with NMD90 14-2, correct?

For the generator setup, would this be acceptable?

The AC appliance whip would run from the boiler burner and could end at a metal box and then SO cable exits the box to the L5-15p (about 1.5 feet or so) which I could pull from the receptacle that is power utility supply and switch over to generator supply receptacle which is totally off grid?

I have strayed away from a transfer switch for the moment because I want to change my 2x 100 amp panels for 2x 200 amp main service panels at a later date and thought this would hold me over the winter storms until then.

The last few winters have been nasty and i would like to have a backup working by snowfall.
 

Last edited by Kiton; 08-15-14 at 07:49 PM.
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Old 08-15-14, 08:49 PM
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So the tool room setup is fine, the extension just has to be a decent grade SO wire but the L5-15r side can be hardwired with NMD90 14-2, correct?

For the generator setup, would this be acceptable?

Yes and yes.

The AC appliance whip would run from the boiler burner and could end at a metal box and then SO cable exits the box to the L5-15p (about 1.5 feet or so) which I could pull from the receptacle that is power utility supply and switch over to generator supply receptacle which is totally off grid?

That is correct.
 
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Old 08-16-14, 08:34 AM
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Thank you very much guys.
 
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Old 08-16-14, 11:23 AM
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This is the plug I was considering (actually have already purchased) for the boiler and the tool room extension cords:

Plugs > Locking Wiring Devices > Electrical Wiring Devices > Products from Leviton Electrical and Electronic Products
I guess I don't see the issue here, what am I missing? SO cord has stranded copper conductors for these cord caps, where is the solid wire you were worried about using. The only real issue I can see is checking to see if the AHJ will allow a flexible cord and plug connection to your boiler.
 
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Old 08-16-14, 12:59 PM
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I guess I don't see the issue here, what am I missing? SO cord has stranded copper conductors for these cord caps, where is the solid wire you were worried about using. The only real issue I can see is checking to see if the AHJ will allow a flexible cord and plug connection to your boiler.
You raise a good point for the boiler half of this project.

I have called the city about 10 times as I work through this. They require AC to the boiler, but never specified anything about the other end of the line. But they knew this was to accommodate a generator backup (they reminded me twice that a generator can only run between 9am and 9pm except for during a city or state declared emergency).

Originally I thought I could connect the L5-15p directly to the AC. But Leviton says no solid cable on the 15amp plugs.
So as it stands now, and I hope this is the final config,

NMD90 to a new disconnect
NMD90 to a L5-15p
SOOW with a L5-15p to a metal junction box.
AC from the junction box to the aquastat and boiler.

Does this look reasonable?



In time, I would like to replicate this with 20 amp plugs for my 40 gallon water heater.

The city cares far more about the facade of the houses that what we (as home owner) do inside them. As long as I call it in and get an inspection after I complete all the work, they really don't push permits on the homeowners.
 
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Old 08-16-14, 02:22 PM
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There are single circuit panels made for this usage that have an inlet built in.
 
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Old 08-17-14, 05:49 AM
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Thanks pcboss,
The oil company requires a lockable disconnect within a few feet (within eye sight) of the boiler as part of the service contract.
I looked at the Reliance and did not see a way to lock it when off, so I went this route. Do you know of any lockable units?
 
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Old 08-17-14, 06:08 AM
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There is almost no limit on what can be locked out.
 
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Old 08-17-14, 06:59 AM
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I never imagined there were so many lockout devices out there.
Thank you Greg,
 
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Old 08-17-14, 07:20 AM
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As workplace health and safety rules get tightened up so does the availability of safety devices.
It has not been that long that you can go to a hardware store and buy fall restraint equipment in a bucket.

 
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