wiring for a rehabbed kitchen

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Old 08-28-14, 04:26 PM
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wiring for a rehabbed kitchen

Just putting the finishing touches to a 50's kitchen I've been rehabbing, and I just wanted to double check a couple of things before I proceed with some new wiring.

Because the kitchen is very small I've moved a few things around, including moving the refrigerator into an area that was once used as a broom closet. I've also installed a microwave and dishwasher where there were none before. So basically, all three appliances have no power in their allotted areas. (The kitchen also only has four counter-top outlets, but the notion of having to basically break through tiled walls with 2 inches of wire-reinforced cement backing to accommodate more outlets is certainly not appealing!)

One bit of real luck though has been the fact that I had to bite the bullet on one of these outlets and break into the wall to move it up by about three inches so that it will sit above the granite backsplash we're installing. It was a damn hard job, especially squeezing between the wall and base cabinets to try and chisel through, but I eventually broke through to the gap behind, and between that and the gap that's going to be left underneath the new outlet I have more than enough space to run a new cable from the dishwasher, along the back of the cabinet, up into the old outlet cavity and thence over the ceiling to the main board in the garage. The new wiring for the fridge will be a lot easier, while for the microwave all I have to do is drill through the top of the cabinet over the stove and straight into the ceiling - the kitchen cabinets are ceiling high.

So just to be sure about all this before I start running wires and buying breakers, each unit needs its own dedicated circuit, right, and I can use standard 20 amp breakers for each - you only have to use the heavy duty breakers for things like cooktops, ovens, ranges, etc, right?

I've done plenty of wiring before, but this will be the first time I'll be trying to install new breakers on a main board myself - I figured it was about time to bite the bullet and try doing it myself. In the past I've set up all the wiring, lights, outlets, whatever for entire rooms, then let a sparkie take care of the connections to the board - 200 amps is pretty intimidating, even if you know you've turned off the main switch and have testers on standby!

Thanks
 
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Old 08-28-14, 05:41 PM
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The breaker is sized to the size of the wire. If you used #12 wire you can use a 20 amp breaker. If it is #14 you need to use a 15 amp breaker. General purpose receptacles are limited to 20 amps or less.

The fridge, dishwasher, and microwave can each be put on #14/15 amp breakers. But you can use #12 and 20 amp breakers if you choose.

When working in a panel remember that the largest wires feeding the panel is always hot even with the main off, unless you have a main disconnect outside, or before the main panel.
 
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Old 08-29-14, 06:05 AM
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Thanks. Yeah, I should have noted the wiring I use. On the recommendation of an electrician friend from some years ago, I always use #12 gauge, which is why I was talking 20 amp fuses. And trust me, if I have the option of turning the mains off I will!

Thanks again
 
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Old 08-29-14, 06:21 AM
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for the microwave all I have to do is drill through the top of the cabinet over the stove and straight into the ceiling
If the cable will be exposed in cabinet, drill your top hole a little larger and run cable through 3/4" flex down to the box. The flex only needs to be long enough to be secured to box and extend up through top of cabinet enough to protect exposed cable.
If you want to mount box to the top of cabinet, place it right of center or near right side, the cord is plenty long enough to reach top.
 
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Old 08-29-14, 06:23 AM
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It sounds like you missed his point. The service drop is always hot no matter if the main breaker is in the off position.
 
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