Wiring recessed lights
#1
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Wiring recessed lights
I'm taking down an old ceiling fan and putting 3 can lights in its place. Is this the correct way to wire them up w/the switch at the end of the run? (See attached image)
#2
It will work and if your local code is older than 20 11 it will pass inspection. However 2011 NEC requires a neutral at the switch box even if not need so you would need to run the 3-conductor cable all the way to the switch box. It would make sense to do that to future proof the wiring even if not required by your code.
#4
I guess I'm not quite sure what you mean.
There's actually 14/3 going to switch now because of the ceiling fan.
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Then the diagram isn't accurate.
The attached image is now more accurate since there is a red wire coming up from the switch.
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The 2011 NEC requires there be a neutral conductor at each switchbox regardless of whether it is needed.
Also, this may help. There are two switches in that box. The one I plan on using as the switch for my can lights.. that currently is not hooked up to anything, and a switch that runs the hallway light. Will that help this be up to code?
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Thanks for the diagram, but what happens to the neutral(white) wire at the switch? Does it connect to anything? I guess this is just because I'm such a novice, but in my diagram I could see how the circuit gets completed and the power returns through the neutral wire.
#10
I could see how the circuit gets completed and the power returns through the neutral wire.
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Thanks for all the help! This is very clear now.. however, I've now run into a new problem. The cable running to the fan is 14/2, but it's on a 20 amp breaker. I know the guy who put this fan in about 15 years ago. He's a licensed electrician. Would this have been up to code that long ago? I guess maybe he was just assuming that no one would extend that circuit with something that would draw 20 amps??? I guess what I'm asking is.. is it safe for me to go ahead and put my lighting in and just make sure that we never add on to it?
Part 2: I just want to make sure that the housing for the lighting is the right kind.
Halo 6 in. New Construction Insulation Contact Recessed Housing-H7ICT at The Home Depot
The side of this also says IC rated. These will eventually be covered over by 2 feet of insulation. Also, I'm trimming these with 6" LEDs.
Part 2: I just want to make sure that the housing for the lighting is the right kind.
Halo 6 in. New Construction Insulation Contact Recessed Housing-H7ICT at The Home Depot
The side of this also says IC rated. These will eventually be covered over by 2 feet of insulation. Also, I'm trimming these with 6" LEDs.
#12
It was a code violation 15 years ago and still is. Replace the 20a breaker with a 15 amp breaker.
Housing is okay but depending on the ceiling joists you might be able to install old work cans from below easier than crawling around in the attic..
Housing is okay but depending on the ceiling joists you might be able to install old work cans from below easier than crawling around in the attic..
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Thanks for the response, Ray. The garage is on that breaker as well. I don't see any 20a outlets, but is there something I might be missing that requires 20amps? What happens if I replace that breaker and there's something on there that needs that 20 amps to run?
#14
What happens if I replace that breaker and there's something on there that needs that 20 amps to run?
Just for information. Garages are usually on 20 amp circuits wire with #12. Is the garage wired with #12?
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There isn't much in a house that requires a 20 amp circuit and if it did it should be on a dedicated circuit. What is on the circuit besides the lights and garage?
The garage is wired with #12, but all outlets are 15 amp.
Thanks for the advice, I will get that breaker swapped out.