European style(???) plug device in America

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  #41  
Old 10-09-14, 06:22 PM
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I don't have a clue. Never saw a plug with changeable blades. Maybe Justin can answer.

Just a final check you are aware this isn't a code compliant solution.
 
  #42  
Old 10-09-14, 06:37 PM
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Originally Posted by ray2047 View Post
I don't have a clue. Never saw a plug with changeable blades. Maybe Justin can answer.

Just a final check you are aware this isn't a code compliant solution.
Yes, I do realize that. But it won't be a permanent thing. In fact, it wont even be hooked up for longer than 6 hours at a time. Thanks for all of your help though!
 
  #43  
Old 10-09-14, 08:27 PM
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I don't have a clue. Never saw a plug with changeable blades. Maybe Justin can answer.

Here it is. I'm using the 50A configuration, it feeds my portable sub-panel(s). You can see the 30A blade in the second picture. If I were you, I would put in a 2-space panel, and then not use the neutral blade at all.

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  #44  
Old 10-09-14, 08:37 PM
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I would put in a 2-space panel, and then not use the neutral blade at all.
Unfortunately we have been down that road before. Yum believes:
And this would be something that I've got to take when I leave, every time I leave. With that said, it would be easier to have my machine and my plug. When you get to assembling an additional breaker(even if it is only plugged into the dryer outlet) people tend to think a little differently.
 
  #45  
Old 10-09-14, 08:44 PM
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And this would be something that I've got to take when I leave, every time I leave. With that said, it would be easier to have my machine and my plug. When you get to assembling an additional breaker(even if it is only plugged into the dryer outlet) people tend to think a little differently.

I never was questioned when this showed up on people's floors.
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  #46  
Old 10-09-14, 09:21 PM
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this is someone else's house
Just to be clear: This is not your house so you can't make wiring changes so you want something that you can bring with you.
 
  #47  
Old 10-09-14, 09:40 PM
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Keep the blade in. If nothing is connected to the blade inside the plug, then you simply have a chunk of metal to help keep the plug snugged in the receptacle better.
And also kiss your warranty goodbye since you are removing the manufacturer's plug.
 
  #48  
Old 10-09-14, 10:14 PM
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The warranty will remain. They have stated that as long as it's not the rewiring of the machine that causes the fault, the warranty will still be there
 
  #49  
Old 10-09-14, 10:45 PM
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Im wiring up the male 30/50amp plug
When wiring the hots, does it matter which side the black and white wires go to?
Is this correct? There is 2 metal pieces sandwiched together(copper and metal), is the wiring supposed to go in between them, or on top of them both(right under the screw head)? Currently, I have the wire sandwitched between the two.
Also, is the wire supposed to wrap around the screw in this case? I currently just have a line of wire, its NOT wrapped around the screw.
Last, should I leave just a tiny bit of the insulation UNDER the sandwitch part? Or should it be nothing but wire in there? As you can see, it's nothing but wire currently. but as soon as its out of the sandwitch, the insulation is touching the wall... it kind of seems as though to be safe, that a little insulation should be in the sandwich(right at the edge)
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Also
 

Last edited by yum114; 10-09-14 at 11:11 PM.
  #50  
Old 10-09-14, 11:16 PM
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The actual wire goes between the plates. The rubber insulation can butt up next to the plates but should not be between the plates.
 
  #51  
Old 10-09-14, 11:33 PM
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Ok, cool. Thats how I have it. Should I wrap the wire around the screw like I see everyone do when they don't have plates? Or is it enough to simply have the wire just running sideways through the plate without wrapping wround the screw?
 
  #52  
Old 10-09-14, 11:41 PM
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Simply put the wire under the pressure plate and tighten down. No insulation should be under the pressure plate.
 
  #53  
Old 10-10-14, 12:16 AM
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I left these pieces out. They were at the bottom of the plug(to stop the wire from being able to pull out of the plug casing. It didn't seem like they would fit in as the wire is a bit thick and I didn't want to end up ripping into the wiring if I left them on. Will I be alright without them, or shall I try and put them back?
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Wired up the male dryer plug
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  #54  
Old 10-10-14, 01:31 AM
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Those plugs are designed to be used with different diameters of cable. When the plug is assembled there needs to be pressure on the jacket to hold it in place. I think you're using a smaller cable in that plug so you'll probably need the retainer in place.

If it came with two inserts... try using just one.
 
  #55  
Old 10-10-14, 01:32 AM
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Heres my wiring job on the female. Looks HORRIBLE. I hope that it's ok?
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Last edited by yum114; 10-10-14 at 03:45 AM.
  #56  
Old 10-10-14, 03:52 AM
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And for the finisher. Here is my rewire job on the original power cable for the machine. Any way to be sure that the ground(I believe) was in fact the ground?
Heres a pic of the wires as well. I believe it was a UK cord(not certain)
I checked color codes and believed the green wire with yellow(or white???) stripe, was the ground

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  #57  
Old 10-10-14, 04:49 AM
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I was using 10/3 SO cable
 

Last edited by PJmax; 10-10-14 at 08:36 AM. Reason: removed referer link
  #58  
Old 10-10-14, 08:38 AM
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Use the insert piece if needed to hold the jacket. If you can't fit it..... don't use it.

To check for ground.... check for continuity from the ground pin of the cord to the metal parts of the equipment.
 
  #59  
Old 10-10-14, 07:31 PM
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SUCCESS! I owe everyone a drink!
Plugged in my machine and got it up and running!
One of the heaters got hot(when it should of been off), but I believe that either had to do with my horrible programming skills for it, or its supposed to get hot to a degree(maybe it can't shut completely down)

You guys are AMAZING!
Far as checking for ground(I believe I got it right.)
how do I do that PJmax?
Plug the cord into the machine, then touch the male end to the machine? or simply plug the cord into the machine, then read the ground pin of the male side with a meter?
 
  #60  
Old 10-10-14, 11:44 PM
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To check for ground.... check for continuity from the ground pin of the cord to the metal parts of the equipment.
I'm not sure what you didn't understand about this.

Take one of the leads of your ohmmeter and touch it to the ground pin on the plug that plugs into the wall.

Take the other lead from your ohmmeter and touch it to some metal part of your machine.

It should show full continuity.... a dead short.
 
 

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