I'm at a standstill due to bathroom wiring dilemma!

Reply

  #1  
Old 09-30-14, 05:23 AM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: United States
Posts: 4
I'm at a standstill due to bathroom wiring dilemma!

I have opened up my bath with studs and ceiling exposed. I have one power source going into the room. I have a:
1. VENTILATION FAN/Light/Night light
2. 3 switch for one gang box
3. Vanity light that I wish tied to Main Light in Fan
4. Separate shower lights
5. Single switch for shower lights

I have new 12/3 wire and 12/2 wire.

I know I'm going to split the power source to the shower light switch and to the 3 switch. Can someone look at the diagram below and tell me how to wire the 3 switch to the ventilation fan with a the power line.

Name:  Bath wiring.jpg
Views: 1183
Size:  24.9 KB

Close up of fan wiring diagram:

Name:  IMG_1555.jpg
Views: 466
Size:  20.5 KB
 
Sponsored Links
  #2  
Old 09-30-14, 07:20 AM
ray2047's Avatar
Group Moderator
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: USA
Posts: 33,058
I'm a bit confused. Are you trying to use one triplex switch for everything? It sounds like you may need more then the one triplex switch. Do you want every thing controlled by that switch that switch? I'd suggest a double gang box and the one triplex switch for the exhaust unit and a second duplex or triplex switch for the other lights. I would bring power into the switch box not the exhaust unit because there isn't that much room for wiring at the exhaust unit. Even at the switch a 2-gang deep box may not be enough.

Note to the wiring in your diagram is conduit not cable.
 

Last edited by ray2047; 09-30-14 at 07:37 AM.
  #3  
Old 09-30-14, 07:36 AM
Handyone's Avatar
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: U.S.
Posts: 5,451
Welcome.
I can tell you how to wire this, it's fairly simple. But....
Since you're down to bare studs, I would consider changing the layout first.

First, power should come into switch box as Ray said.

Second, Consider using a 3-gang switch, box. Layout as follows:

SW1 (closest to door) - Vanity Light and Fan Main Light
SW2 - Shower Lights
SW3 (2 stacked) - Night Light and Fan

Others may have a better configuration, but if possible use a larger box.
 
  #4  
Old 09-30-14, 07:39 AM
ray2047's Avatar
Group Moderator
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: USA
Posts: 33,058
Brian has given you a very good layout. I also agree a 3-gang box if at all possible.
 
  #5  
Old 09-30-14, 07:43 AM
Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: USA
Posts: 6,445
Switches

The diagram utilizes 2 switches. Use the third switch for the shower lights.

Pigtail vanity light into the connection for the fan light.

Sorry, guys. I am a slow typist.
 
  #6  
Old 09-30-14, 08:05 AM
Handyone's Avatar
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: U.S.
Posts: 5,451
The diagram uses 3 switches, with the option of 2 switches by tying main light and fan together on one switch.
Black, Main Switch 1
Black, Additional Switch 1
Red, Additional Switch 2
 
  #7  
Old 09-30-14, 08:43 AM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: United States
Posts: 4
Thanks for the replies guys.

Just to clarify a bit; the original has TWO gangbox locations each singles. The first one is where the picture of the triplex is (which is where the door is) and the second box is next to the shower (where the picture of the single switch is).
Name:  Bath wiring.jpg
Views: 476
Size:  27.8 KB

The gangbox in by the door, i might be able to put in a double gang box but not a triple without some cutting of the studs which I hope to avoid.

Name:  IMG_1556.jpg
Views: 434
Size:  36.9 KB

If I go the double gang with a triplex (for the ventfan/light/nightlight) then a single for the shower lights (then vanity lights pigtailed to ventfan light like wirepuller mentioned) do I use both a 14/3 AND a 14/2 running from the triplex to the fan unit? This is the part that confuses me. Anyone mind doing a blow by blow which wire to which screw? Also where does the power line black and white go into?

Thanks!!
 
  #8  
Old 09-30-14, 08:50 AM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: United States
Posts: 4
Would this work

Do you guys think this will work?Name:  Bath wiring2.jpg
Views: 606
Size:  34.1 KB

(grounds not in drawing)
 
  #9  
Old 09-30-14, 08:50 AM
Handyone's Avatar
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: U.S.
Posts: 5,451
OK,
I get it. That drawing you posted is a floor plan of the bath. I thought it was just info.
I'll get back as may others.
 
  #10  
Old 09-30-14, 09:12 AM
Handyone's Avatar
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: U.S.
Posts: 5,451
I don't want to comment on wiring yet. It does appear you have this down.

My concern is the box at door. You will have at least the following (or more)

Power in from shower switch box
1 3 conductor cable to fan unit
1 2 conductor cable to fan unit
1 2 conductor cable to vanity light

You could eliminate one of these 2 conductor cables by joining fan light and vanity light from above.

I would still add a two gang box:

Attachment 39154
 
  #11  
Old 09-30-14, 09:38 AM
ray2047's Avatar
Group Moderator
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: USA
Posts: 33,058
I would remove that section of stud Xed out in the diagram and install a 3-gang box. You really need the room.

Name:  IMG_1556.jpg
Views: 323
Size:  40.5 KB

Yes, a bit higher but not that much and could be lower with a little more work.
 
  #12  
Old 09-30-14, 09:48 AM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: United States
Posts: 4
I agree :)

Name:  IMG_1556.jpg
Views: 283
Size:  28.4 KB

That was just what I was thinking!
 
  #13  
Old 09-30-14, 11:17 AM
ray2047's Avatar
Group Moderator
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: USA
Posts: 33,058
Looking good. Are you going to add the cross piece? If not load bearing you may not need the 1x4s just the cross piece. Suggestion: When it come time to install the box put a 2x4 flat in back to screw the box to.

So tell us your final decision on switches and we will help you with that if you need it.
 
  #14  
Old 09-30-14, 01:17 PM
pcboss's Avatar
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Maryland
Posts: 14,594
I like to use smurf tube with individual conductors from the switch to the fan unit. That way you can add the additional switched hots easily vs using cables and reidentifying whites as a hot and it cuts down on conductors in the small fan box.
 
Reply

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Display Modes