Rewiring out of country 220v to US 120v
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Rewiring out of country 220v to US 120v
1. take a look at the photo below of my breaker. That breaker is wired to 1 4-set of sockets that are never used. it states on the breaker, 120/240v What does this mean? is it wired for either or, or it simply has the ability to be wired for whichever one a person chooses?
2. My plug(pictured below), please tell me what kind of plug this is(what country it's from). I thought it was a chinese plug???
3. The plug is a 220v plug that powers a 2300w machine. Would there be anyway to convert this plug to a North American 120V plugin that I can then use with that set of sockets on that red 20a breaker(I believe that the sockets are 120v sockets)?
Here is a photo of the 120v switch, that is ran to ONE set of outlets(4 outlets in the same outlet box)

Heres pics of the cord for my machine
Machine can be seen here: Infrared IR BGA Rework Station Scotle IR6000 V4 CE Upgrade from Achi IR6000 Hot | eBay




2. My plug(pictured below), please tell me what kind of plug this is(what country it's from). I thought it was a chinese plug???
3. The plug is a 220v plug that powers a 2300w machine. Would there be anyway to convert this plug to a North American 120V plugin that I can then use with that set of sockets on that red 20a breaker(I believe that the sockets are 120v sockets)?
Here is a photo of the 120v switch, that is ran to ONE set of outlets(4 outlets in the same outlet box)

Heres pics of the cord for my machine
Machine can be seen here: Infrared IR BGA Rework Station Scotle IR6000 V4 CE Upgrade from Achi IR6000 Hot | eBay





Last edited by yum114; 10-04-14 at 07:03 PM.
#2
Tinypic can not be used for images. Photobucket or Image shack can be used or you can insert them from your computer. http://www.doityourself.com/forum/el...your-post.html
The problem isn't just voltage it is frequency. The machine seems to have motors and if the motors are 50Hz they will not run correctly if at all on US 60hz unless they are universal motors.
The problem isn't just voltage it is frequency. The machine seems to have motors and if the motors are 50Hz they will not run correctly if at all on US 60hz unless they are universal motors.
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Im certain many users use this machine in the US, but they are using them on 220v. So, other than the hertz thing, there would be no problem rewiring that power cord for a 110v socket?
sidenote: anyway to see posts from oldest to newest instead of newest to oldest?
sidenote: anyway to see posts from oldest to newest instead of newest to oldest?
#4
Except that you don't have 110 volts in the US. You have 120 volts and if it is a single phase power supply 240 volts.
But it won't operate on 120 volts so why would you.
Yes but they are machines built to work in the US.
At the top: Forum Actions > General settings.
there would be no problem rewiring that power cord for a 110v socket?
Im certain many users use this machine in the US,
anyway to see posts from oldest to newest instead of newest to oldest

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They dont make this machine for US plug. So everyone in the US using this machine is doing so with a machine meant for asian/european 220v.
and when I said 110, I meant 120. so any way to wire this 220v pplug for a 120v outlet?
thx for help with thread settings
and when I said 110, I meant 120. so any way to wire this 220v pplug for a 120v outlet?
thx for help with thread settings
#6
A 220 device will not work on 120 volts. You would need a transformer rated for the required amps. It would probably be best to use a buck and boost transformer on 240v and lower the voltage to 220 or ask the manufacturer if it will work on 240..
Last edited by ray2047; 10-04-14 at 08:08 PM.
#7
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This is the second thread asked about this. European style(???) plug device in America - DoItYourself.com Community Forums
Specs show AC220V±10%/AC110V±10% 50/60Hz so should work on standard US 240@60Hz.
The power draw (2400W) is too high for any standard 120v 20amp circuit even with a transformer so do need to run a 2 wire plus ground circuit from the panel. A 6-15R outlet using 14 gauge on 15amp two pole breaker should suffice.
Specs show AC220V±10%/AC110V±10% 50/60Hz so should work on standard US 240@60Hz.
The power draw (2400W) is too high for any standard 120v 20amp circuit even with a transformer so do need to run a 2 wire plus ground circuit from the panel. A 6-15R outlet using 14 gauge on 15amp two pole breaker should suffice.
Last edited by ray2047; 10-05-14 at 05:41 AM. Reason: Change "4-wire" to "2-wire plus ground"..
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thx
Ok, so I was going to get started on setting up this outlet tonight. Went to Lowes to get the final pieces to the puzzle and walked away with nothing smh.
BUT, I did come away with some questions if anyone wouldn't mind helping :-)
1. What is the difference between this double pole 240v breaker and the normal ones? From the photo you may not be able to tell, but this breaker only takes up 1 slot in the breaker box. As you know, most double pole 240v breakers take up 2 slots, while this one only takes up one. any drawbacks to using something like this?
EDIT: After doing some research, and finding out that these are typically called "tandem" breakers. I was able to further search on the topic and have found out that NO, these are NOT for being able to create 220/240v from a single 1inch slot in the panel. DO NOT TRY IT!


2. Which of these should I go for? As you can see, one is MUCH smaller than the other, and I can't quite understand why as they are both rated 20amp 240v and have the same layout. just the plugs would be bigger for one of the outlets and smaller for the other


3. Best size wiring for 15amp and best size for 20amp? Not sure which I amp breaker I will go with until I can find a socket, and a plug to rewire the machines current power cord. But, 12/2 gauge romex would work at both 15/20 amps, right?
Ok, so I was going to get started on setting up this outlet tonight. Went to Lowes to get the final pieces to the puzzle and walked away with nothing smh.
BUT, I did come away with some questions if anyone wouldn't mind helping :-)
1. What is the difference between this double pole 240v breaker and the normal ones? From the photo you may not be able to tell, but this breaker only takes up 1 slot in the breaker box. As you know, most double pole 240v breakers take up 2 slots, while this one only takes up one. any drawbacks to using something like this?
EDIT: After doing some research, and finding out that these are typically called "tandem" breakers. I was able to further search on the topic and have found out that NO, these are NOT for being able to create 220/240v from a single 1inch slot in the panel. DO NOT TRY IT!


2. Which of these should I go for? As you can see, one is MUCH smaller than the other, and I can't quite understand why as they are both rated 20amp 240v and have the same layout. just the plugs would be bigger for one of the outlets and smaller for the other


3. Best size wiring for 15amp and best size for 20amp? Not sure which I amp breaker I will go with until I can find a socket, and a plug to rewire the machines current power cord. But, 12/2 gauge romex would work at both 15/20 amps, right?
Last edited by yum114; 10-05-14 at 12:10 AM.
#9
They are not. The large black receptacle (outlet) is a 6-30R 30 amp, 240 volt. You want to use the white one. Note below that the 15/20 look the same, but they are not.

A 15 amp circuit requires 14 ga wire, 20 amp circuit requires 20 ga wire. I recommend installing 12/2 and using a 20 amp breaker.

A 15 amp circuit requires 14 ga wire, 20 amp circuit requires 20 ga wire. I recommend installing 12/2 and using a 20 amp breaker.
#10
What is the difference between this double pole 240v breaker and the normal ones?
- Two pole breaker connect to both legs of the 240.
- Single pole connects to one leg of the 240 (Provides 120 volt when used with neutral as second leg).
- A tandem is two single pole breakers in the space of one single pole breaker. both breakers connect to the same leg of the 240 so can not be used for 240.
You need a Nema 6-20r as Toyln wrote.

Source: Frentz and Son Hardware

Source International Configurations
Note a NEMA 6-15 plug will also fit a 6-20 receptacle but you want a NEMA 6-20 plug.
Last edited by ray2047; 10-05-14 at 08:18 AM.
#11
In addition to what has already been stated:
You haven't shown us a complete picture of your existing electric panel, but assuming it is a Westinghouse panel, based upon the red handled breaker picture you showed us, the new tandem breaker (either Siemens or Murray) shouldn't be used anyway. I am nearly 100% certain it would not be U.L. Listed for use in your panel. There should be a label inside your panel that provides the manufacturer's name and breaker types that are acceptable for use in that panel. If it is an older Westinghouse panel, you would want a Cutler-Hammer BR series breaker.
You haven't shown us a complete picture of your existing electric panel, but assuming it is a Westinghouse panel, based upon the red handled breaker picture you showed us, the new tandem breaker (either Siemens or Murray) shouldn't be used anyway. I am nearly 100% certain it would not be U.L. Listed for use in your panel. There should be a label inside your panel that provides the manufacturer's name and breaker types that are acceptable for use in that panel. If it is an older Westinghouse panel, you would want a Cutler-Hammer BR series breaker.
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You all have been amazingly helpful.
One last question though.
If the workstation that I am using, max load is only 11amps. Why do I need to rewire a plugin that is 20amps rated?
Homedepot only has the nema 6-15 plugins, would that truly not suffice?
One last question though.
If the workstation that I am using, max load is only 11amps. Why do I need to rewire a plugin that is 20amps rated?
Homedepot only has the nema 6-15 plugins, would that truly not suffice?
#13
It's best to use 80% of the breaker capacity or less. (15x80%=12) What's a a plugin? Do you mean receptacle. Did you look yourself or take the word of an employee? Try a hardware store or electric supply house if they don't have it. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton-2...-0WS/100356999
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So 80% x 11 would still be less than 15, so shouldn't the 15amp plug suffice?
I don't mean recepticle. the receptacle will be 20 amps like the breaker. but I have to rewire my machines power cord(since it isn't american) so I am going to be rewiring it to a 15amp plug
Pass & Seymour 15-Amp 250-Volt NEMA 6-15P Industrial-Grade Plug-PS5666XCCV4 at The Home Depot
and by the way, I looked myself :-)
I don't mean recepticle. the receptacle will be 20 amps like the breaker. but I have to rewire my machines power cord(since it isn't american) so I am going to be rewiring it to a 15amp plug
Pass & Seymour 15-Amp 250-Volt NEMA 6-15P Industrial-Grade Plug-PS5666XCCV4 at The Home Depot
and by the way, I looked myself :-)
#15
The receptacle will take either a 15 amp or 20 amp plug. Yes you can go with the 15 amp plug. Just monitor it occasionally to see how warm it is getting.
Was the 80%x11 a typo in your post?
Was the 80%x11 a typo in your post?
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Kind of a typo. I meant 11x80%
we were making sure to stay under the 80% of max amperage right?
Well, the device is rated 11amps(which it never really reaches. but that multiplied by the 80% rule, would be less than 15amps, so I should be safe :-)
Thank you all for your amazing help, and putting up with all of my questions!
we were making sure to stay under the 80% of max amperage right?
Well, the device is rated 11amps(which it never really reaches. but that multiplied by the 80% rule, would be less than 15amps, so I should be safe :-)
Thank you all for your amazing help, and putting up with all of my questions!
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Oh shoot, Justin, you're right! Also, what is the best way to keep everything OUTSIDE of the wall? I've seen people with breaker boxes where there was a cord coming out of a hole in the breaker box, on the outside of the wall, and ran straight to the surface mount outlet. Nothing was behind the wall.
#22
The green wire goes to the center screw for the U pin.
The other two colors do not make a difference.
The other two colors do not make a difference.
#23
what is the best way to keep everything OUTSIDE of the wall? I've seen people with breaker boxes where there was a cord coming out of a hole in the breaker box, on the outside of the wall, and ran straight to the surface mount outlet.