wire temp rating for halogen fixtures
#1
Hi all,
Is Romex suitable for use with halogen fixtures (box attached to directly to can) that require wiring rated to 90 deg. C? If so, can nonmetallic clamps/bushings be used on the box housing?
Another minor concern I've had is with the use of 20+ cubic inch single-gang boxes in 2X4 partition walls. The deep box brings the wires entering the box very close to the finish surface on the other side of the wall. Is this of any concern?
Your help is greatly appreciated.
-TRS
Is Romex suitable for use with halogen fixtures (box attached to directly to can) that require wiring rated to 90 deg. C? If so, can nonmetallic clamps/bushings be used on the box housing?
Another minor concern I've had is with the use of 20+ cubic inch single-gang boxes in 2X4 partition walls. The deep box brings the wires entering the box very close to the finish surface on the other side of the wall. Is this of any concern?
Your help is greatly appreciated.
-TRS
#2
Use type "NM-B" romex, which is specifically rated for 90 degrees C. I do not know a whole lot about box & fitting ratings though. So I would use steel, which is certainly rated for at least that temp.
I inderstand your concern getting so close to the opposite wall with your romex. one misplaced nail or drywall screw and it's all over. Not sure what the Code says about this, but I do know that if you drill studs for horizontal runs of NM cable, the outer edge of the hole can be no closer than 1-5/8" (90% sure on that measurement) or you must use a steel plate on the face of the stud where the wire passes through prior to installing the drywall. Stands to reason that entering a deep box that close to the opposite wall might be a Code issue.
Somebody elso jump in here and help me out on this one...
Juice
I inderstand your concern getting so close to the opposite wall with your romex. one misplaced nail or drywall screw and it's all over. Not sure what the Code says about this, but I do know that if you drill studs for horizontal runs of NM cable, the outer edge of the hole can be no closer than 1-5/8" (90% sure on that measurement) or you must use a steel plate on the face of the stud where the wire passes through prior to installing the drywall. Stands to reason that entering a deep box that close to the opposite wall might be a Code issue.
Somebody elso jump in here and help me out on this one...
Juice
#3
The insulation in the newer Romex is rated 90 degrees C.
The insulation in the Romex installed in the middle 80s and before was rated for 60 degrees C.
As long as you have not overfilled your 20+ cubic inch box it does not matter how close those wires are to the adjacent wall on the other side.
Hope this helps
Wg
The insulation in the Romex installed in the middle 80s and before was rated for 60 degrees C.
As long as you have not overfilled your 20+ cubic inch box it does not matter how close those wires are to the adjacent wall on the other side.
Hope this helps
Wg
#4
Thanks for the helpful replies! After thinking about it more, I realize that wires close to a wall surface is not that uncommon, especially when running cable in old construction. For example, when notching the face of studs or joists to snake wire through drywall surfaced areas, only the part of the wire that crosses the framing member is protected by the nail plate. In principle, you're not sinking nails anywhere else, but, then again, stranger things have happened. Maybe I'm paranoid, but I'm considering a photographic record of wire placement so I'll know where I need to be careful after the drywall is in place.
Thanks again for the help.
-TRS
Thanks again for the help.
-TRS
#5
Juice, we were replying at the same time. Didn't see your reply until today. Your 1 5/8" is a bit off. The nail protector is required if 1 1/4" from surface of stud. Plastic box also would be allowed due to the heat dissapation of the mounting cone of the fixture and the nonmetallic box not convecting heat. Steel or non metallic box would be fine.
Hope this helps
Wg
Hope this helps
Wg