Fix or replace electrical outlet box?
#1
10-21-14, 12:15 PM
Fix or replace electrical outlet box?
Rusty screw got stuck & broke off where a cap or receptacle would be screwed in. Then, the piece with the broken rusty screw still intact broke off box. How would you fix this electrical outlet box or would you replace the electrical outlet box?
#4
10-21-14, 12:54 PM
Is that a concrete wall?
Is that conduit into the box?
Would a surface mount box be acceptable in that location?
#5
10-21-14, 01:43 PM
Just meant would it look okay to you? If so I would put a 4x4 balk cover plate with center knock out over the box. Feed the wires through the 4x4 plate and fasten the cover plate to the concrete. Put a bead of caulk on the top and side edges, but not the bottom before fastening.
Feed the wires into a surface mount box with a back knock out centered over the blank plate knock out. Caulk and fasten the surface mount box to the blank plate.
You will also need to add a ground wire to the original box and feed it into the new box.
Feed the wires into a surface mount box with a back knock out centered over the blank plate knock out. Caulk and fasten the surface mount box to the blank plate.
You will also need to add a ground wire to the original box and feed it into the new box.
Last edited by ray2047; 10-21-14 at 02:09 PM.
#6
10-21-14, 08:27 PM
Member
Well you he-manned the screw out, you could probably he-man the box out to be replaced.
For future reference, I break screws all the time. Take a pair of side cutters and carefully squeeze them over the nub just enough to get them to sink into the screw a bit. Then ever so gently start turning it out.
For future reference, I break screws all the time. Take a pair of side cutters and carefully squeeze them over the nub just enough to get them to sink into the screw a bit. Then ever so gently start turning it out.
#7
10-21-14, 09:11 PM
you could probably he-man the box out to be replaced.
Edit: I thought there was conduit from the side and the back but it seems to only be from the back so Mr. Awsome's idea might work.
Last edited by ray2047; 10-21-14 at 11:20 PM.
#8
10-21-14, 09:31 PM
Member
Unlikely but not impossible. If he managed to get it out while keeping the (assumed) emt connector in tact, he could replace it with a masonry box and secure it with a couple of screws and a locknut.
EDIT: or just use a new connector.
EDIT: or just use a new connector.
Last edited by Mr.Awesome; 10-21-14 at 09:33 PM. Reason: Brain kicked in.
#9
10-21-14, 10:36 PM
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I'd wait for input from others on my idea, good or bad. But how about drilling inside yellow circle and tapping for #6-32 machine screw?
Blue circle is just to warn about exposed wires.
#10
10-21-14, 11:16 PM
It is a possibility tapping it might work.
In blowing it up I realized I may have been to quick to condemn Mr. Awesome's idea. I thought there was conduit from the side and the back but it seems to only be from the back.
In blowing it up I realized I may have been to quick to condemn Mr. Awesome's idea. I thought there was conduit from the side and the back but it seems to only be from the back.
#11
10-22-14, 04:29 PM
Originally Posted by Mr.Awesome
Well you he-manned the screw out, you could probably he-man the box out to be replaced...
#12
10-22-14, 04:36 PM
Originally Posted by Handyone
... how about drilling inside yellow circle and tapping for #6-32 machine screw?
Originally Posted by Handyone
Blue circle is just to warn about exposed wires.
#15
10-22-14, 05:08 PM
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You have one mounting flange still available. Lightly attach a receptacle to that flange as you normally would.
Use the other hole of receptacle as a guide for drilling second hole.
A split point drill bit will drill through metal. Drill bits can drill through both wood and metal.
I can't tell you the pilot hole size, this was just an idea. But the important thing is finding the 6-32 tap and it will indicate required pilot.
(Ray is quick on the draw)
Use the other hole of receptacle as a guide for drilling second hole.
A split point drill bit will drill through metal. Drill bits can drill through both wood and metal.
I can't tell you the pilot hole size, this was just an idea. But the important thing is finding the 6-32 tap and it will indicate required pilot.
(Ray is quick on the draw)
#17
10-23-14, 05:42 PM
You definitely need to use a tap after you use the correct size drillbit. Especially in a soft material like this you want to ensure that you have cleanly cut threads. Using this crew to cut threads isn't going to work.
#18
10-24-14, 12:25 PM
Thanks!
OK so...I've got this set of Craftsman drill bits, whose sizes are in fractions plus one extra gold one. There are no identifying marks nor part # so I don't know what material they're intended to be used with.
Also, found this Irwin 6-32 NC Carded High Carbon Steel Bottom Tap (1788670), which says to "Use with #36 drill bit". That said, was I right when I said...
OK so...I've got this set of Craftsman drill bits, whose sizes are in fractions plus one extra gold one. There are no identifying marks nor part # so I don't know what material they're intended to be used with.
Also, found this Irwin 6-32 NC Carded High Carbon Steel Bottom Tap (1788670), which says to "Use with #36 drill bit". That said, was I right when I said...
...the proper sized drill bit, which appears to be 7/64?
#19
10-24-14, 01:38 PM
You need to use a taper tap first to start the thread then a bottoming tap. Sometimes a plug tap will work for both starting and finishing. 7/64 = #35 and should work.
#21
11-05-14, 06:52 AM
Originally Posted by ray2047
You will also need to add a ground wire to the original box and feed it into the new box.
I've been hearing that in older homes like mine (1970) these boxes may have been ground from behind. Before I try adding a ground wire, anyway I can check, if the box is ground with a cheapo HF Multimeter like this.
Last edited by c1351996; 11-05-14 at 07:11 AM.
#22
11-05-14, 07:50 AM
We would advise analog not a digital pictured if your buying. Yes that is the usual way. The digital will work fine. It is just when checking AC voltage a digital can be problematic.
Last edited by ray2047; 11-05-14 at 08:32 AM.
#23
11-05-14, 08:25 AM
Forum Topic Moderator
Wiring from the 70's should have a ground. Is there a metal conduit feeding that receptacle or a cable?
#26
11-05-14, 07:02 PM
Member
I've been hearing that in older homes like mine (1970) these boxes may have been ground from behind.
#27
11-07-14, 08:00 AM
Originally Posted by pcboss
If the metal conduit is a continuous path it can be used as the grounding means.
And how can it used as the grounding means?
#28
11-07-14, 08:09 AM
Originally Posted by CasualJoe
I've been hearing that in older homes like mine (1970) these boxes may have been ground from behind.
#30
11-08-14, 02:20 AM
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Are you going to install a receptacle , when you finish , or maybe some sort of light fixture ?
If a receptacle , just use a GFCI receptacle . That way you should be as safe as you are going to get with what you have .
God bless
Wyr
If a receptacle , just use a GFCI receptacle . That way you should be as safe as you are going to get with what you have .
God bless
Wyr
