Looking for assistance wiring this safety switch.
Currently wired as 120V, being used for oil-fired water heater (with the 'emergency switch' at the top of the stairs). We're switching to a small elec tank with single 3000W element in a different area of the house.
Have installed a 2-pole 20A breaker in the box, and run appropriate wiring - just unsure how to wire the safety disconnect.
It will be located near the appliance (eliminating the existing 'emergency switch').
Any guidance is much appreciated.

-Peter

 

You say you installed a 2 pole breaker but it looks like you have wired the disconnect as 120.

Is there a reason you are using fuses? A A/C disconnect with pullout is less than $10.

 

The photo is of the switch as it is now wired for the 120 oil-fired unit being removed.
New breaker, 12/2 from panel to disconnect, and BX from disconnect to water heater.
I know buying a new switch is the best approach, but they cost more than that around here, so was hoping to reuse it.
Thank-you for the feedback.

Actually - I know better - I'll quit being a tight ass and go get a new switch...

Thanks again,

-Peter
(I'll delete this thread later today so it isn't cluttering the site)

 

Not clutter. It may help someone else.

 

For just a 20 amp 240 volt circuit, why not use something like this 2 pole switch as your new disconnect.

Leviton 20 Amp Commercial Double-Pole Toggle Switch - White-R52-0CSB2-2WS at The Home Depot

Less than $10.

Or an a-c non-fusible disconnect.

Shop Eaton 60-Amp Non-Fusible Metallic Disconnect at Lowes.com

Less than $10.

 

Follow up:
Found a pullout disconnect, but we want to be able to quickly flip the switch when we are gone for a day or two.
Picked up a 30A plug-fused switch for $30. Shopped around, and the cheapest non-fused I could find was $50, and I guess the fuses offer an extra layer of protection.
Joe, thanks for that info! I'd use that toggle switch, but I can see the Ms. getting confused and getting 'flip-happy'. She'll totally understand that big handle with 'on' and 'off' printed on the enclosure though. (blame the wife, right
Ground question: the new switch has a note stating, "Where elec insp authorities reg the neutral to be disconnected from the enclosure, remove the brass screw on the neutral". (you can just see the edge of the brass screw in the neutral connect area on the lower left)
Don't really have a neutral in case, right? And I think the ground should be wired to the enclosure anyway, yes??
(new switch pic - still need to insert fuses (20A P) and connect the grounds)

 

You could have put a 240v neon indicator light on the toggle switch. No. The ground connection is on the left bottom of the switch. The neutral bar is on the right.

 

Since the circuit is fed from and protected by a 20A 2P breaker, I'd use 30A fuses in the disconnect. If a fuse blows it means you have a dead short.

 

Thanks to everyone for your help!
-Pete