How best to disconnect prior to demolition?

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Old 11-26-14, 06:07 PM
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How best to disconnect prior to demolition?

Purchased a property where the previous owner had put in several gazebos, spa/meditation structures in the backyard. City found out and issued violations and fines, and eventually the owner was foreclosed on.

I need to clear the violations and it means total demolition of these illegal structures.

The problem I have is the guy had poked a hole in his roof overhang soffit area, and used what looks to be a 1-1/2" PVC conduit to carry the needed wiring from the main house attic to the illegal structures.

Inside the conduit are four #6 conductors for two ductless mini-split air conditioning units and some #14 conductors for lighting and receptacles.

Here are some pictures of the conduit.







This is what it looks like inside the illegal structure where the wiring comes in.



I have already disconnected the conductors at the electrical panel which is about 70 feet away.

What is the best way to cut/patch/cap this thing?

I would prefer to leave the conductors (which is sleeved in smurf tubes) laying in the attic just in case in the future I have a need for wiring to that part of the attic.

I know if I cut it flushed with the house soffit, I can patch the hole and be done with it...although the soffit is going to be tricky curved like this.

However, is there some way I can mount a weather proof large size junction box on the outside, where these conductors can be properly capped and secured for future use?

Or is it better to go back to the panel and pull them all back?
 
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Old 11-26-14, 06:19 PM
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Looks like they exit on a curved part of soffit so it would be almost impossible to put a box there. I would pull them inside and close up hole. Seems like you will have a lot a good stuff left after demo. electric pro may have better idea.
 
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Old 11-27-14, 12:03 AM
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I would pull the wires into the attic and set a box up there...... then plug the hole.
 
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Old 11-27-14, 07:35 AM
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The problem is that part of the attic is not accessible, I can't even reach within 10 feet of that spot from the inside.

On the outside, I do have this security camera and a junction box at the corner.

I am wondering if I should open that junction box, and see what's there. Perhaps remove that junction box.

Then cut the conduit on the side of the demo structure. Try and pull loose the conduit...I am thinking it is a short piece before I will see the smurf tube. If I can get back to the smurf tube that should be a 3/4" size. Discard the short piece of PVC conductor.

Then push the smurf tube and conductors back into the attic, in the direction of the security camera junction box. May be I can fish it out of that hole.

Then modify that junction box to receive from two holes, a 3/4" for the smurf tube with those new conductors, and the original security camera wiring, remount the box.

Would that work?

The other option would be to drill a 1" hole a bit back into the attic on the flat underside of the soffit, and essentially do the same, mount a box there for future.
 
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Old 11-27-14, 08:10 AM
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Cut off the pipe next to the building that is going to be demoed, wires and all.

Then, if the pipe is PVC, you can use a string or cable to cut the outside of the conduit without damaging the wire insulation. Go slow and careful and cut it flush with the house, but keep it a straight cut so it will go into a box. Add a connector and attach a WP box. This is not going to look very good with the curved soffit but it is what it is.

IMO - I would cut it off flush with the house, pull out the wire (scrap money) and patch the hole and not mess with it. Any new circuits would be better to run someplace else.

This
 
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Old 11-28-14, 07:48 AM
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Toyln, regarding scrap money for these copper wires, are they worth anything? I probably will end up with a few hundred feet of solid #6, #8 and #12, not sure how much I can get from it, do you need to strip off all the insulation for the metal scrap yards?
 
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Old 11-28-14, 07:52 AM
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You get a better price for clean and bare, but they accept insulated at a lesser price. Prices fluctuate but you might get a couple dollars per pound.
 
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Old 11-28-14, 08:13 AM
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Around me here.... #1 clean copper was $2.95 a pound and insulated copper was $.80 a pound.
Prices vary almost daily and are different among the different reclamation companies.
 
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Old 11-28-14, 06:20 PM
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Yeah, it varies a lot between scrap yards but definitely worth it. Anything larger then about #6 is likely worth cutting off the insulation but it is a pain in the butt! The yards by me are about the same of what PJ posted.

Really, any metal is worth money. Romex, THHN, any aluminum, phone wire, Stainless steel, zinc, brass, cast iron, Lead (batteries) etc. You can even get something for steel but most cases you need 500# minimum. (BTW steel around me is about $150 per ton.) Again, it is best to separate it as best you can. All the small copper wire in one pile, all the larger wire in another. Phone wire here, brass over there. That way you will get the highest prices for each item.
 
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