Adding new circuit for a clothes washer

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  #1  
Old 11-29-14, 04:44 PM
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Adding new circuit for a clothes washer

Hi,

I live in HI and in our townhouse built around year 2000. The circuit panel is relatively close to the laundry closet, which is only wired with one four prong plug for 240v.

So now my combo washer/dryer unit has a broken washer and I am thinking of replacing it with a stackable front loader washer and dryer. Now, I need a 110 v outlet.

I have not gone up to the attic, but I figure a new circuit could be added and the power line run up the attic and down to the laundry closet.

Could you tell me:

1. if I need a permit for a homeowner,
2. how many amps circuit breaker is needed for a clothes washer,
3. what type of electrical wire is needed
4. is this a DIY or better to hire a licensed electrician

Thank you.
 
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  #2  
Old 11-29-14, 05:30 PM
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A 15amp breaker with 14/2 Romex is all that is needed for a 120V outlet. You can do it yourself. If you want to run both machines at the same time, you can go for a 20amp breaker with 12/2 Romex.

Mod Note: a 20 amp laundry circuit is required by the electrical code.
 

Last edited by pcboss; 11-30-14 at 12:03 PM. Reason: corrected information
  #3  
Old 11-29-14, 05:44 PM
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I would use the cable that's already in the 240V box and convert it to 120V.

What to do:
Shut off all power
Remove the 1 Double Pole Breaker that goes to laundry room 240V (probably 30amp?)
Take breaker to store and purchase 2 single pole 20amp breakers
Purchase a short roll of Cable, 12/2 with ground.
Please post a picture of the 240V box with cover off. It's tricky to purchase the correct plate in order to convert the box for use with a regular receptacle.
I or someone will explain how to wire once you decide you want to go this route.

Edit: Oops, never mind. Upon rereading, it looks like you will still need the 240.
 
  #4  
Old 11-29-14, 06:24 PM
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You will run a 120 volt circuit not 110. Usually you put a 20 amp circuit in a utility room so you will need 12-2. Depending on local code and/or the position of a utility sink, if any, you may need a GFCI receptacle.

Assumes the replacement dryer is electric not gas.
 
  #5  
Old 11-30-14, 05:15 PM
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Thank you all for your reply.

The laundry closet has not sink just water supply lines.

I will need the 240v still for the dryer and will be considering putting in a 20 amp breaker and 120v for the washer.

I am having licensed electrician coming out soon to get a quote and also see other possibilities. I will post back when I get the quote.

Thank you.
 
  #6  
Old 12-13-14, 05:02 PM
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Hi,

The two quotes I got was $580 and about $500 not to include patching the drywalls.

I am considering this myself and wanted to know if there is a safe way to connect the new breaker without first shutting off the main breaker. The main breaker is outside in a locked area and I would have to get the on-site manager to turn it off.

I am the owner of the townhouse but have to deal with HOA.
 
  #7  
Old 12-13-14, 08:08 PM
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It isn't just connecting and installing the breaker...... you'll be required to work your new wiring inside the panel. If you aren't comfortable inside the panel with it live then you'll need the main shut off.

As an electrician I rarely shut the main off or have power removed when wiring inside a panel. I install and remove breakers with the panel live. That is what I do. Don't do anything your are not totally comfortable with. Electricity is not forgiving.
 
  #8  
Old 12-14-14, 02:28 AM
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You might want to consider European washer/dryer sets. Miele, Bosch and Asko all make straight 240 volt machines; the Miele and Bosh use a special adapter cord to split the existing 240 volt receptacle to two, receptacles while the Asko has a special receptacle on one of the units for the other to plug into thereby not even needing the adapter cord.

These three manufacturers also make premium machines (unfortunately with higher prices) that will often outlive any American made machines. I don't know if any of the Asian machines have this feature.
 
  #9  
Old 12-14-14, 04:08 AM
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Post a picture of your circuit panel with all covers off. We can give you an idea of the safest way to route your new cable (inside panel), also what to avoid in panel, and step by step wire connections.
 
  #10  
Old 12-27-14, 11:17 PM
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Just to let you know that I am replacing laminate flooring that was damaged by a renter that let their dogs urinate inside and ruined the floor.

This will take me a while as this is my first time and also trying to get rid of the dog urine odor on the underlayment (moisture barrier). I am trying odorban and if this does not work, I will replace the moisture barrier too.

After this, I will post a photo and ask for your help to continue with this project.

Thank you and Happy New Year.
 
  #11  
Old 12-28-14, 06:57 AM
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We will be here.

.
 
  #12  
Old 12-28-14, 07:46 AM
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For dog urine I swear by Natures Miracle, available at hardware or pet stores. Use full strength as directed and if first treatment isn't completely effective (such as with old dry urine) repeat. It will take more than you expect, so get the gallon size. Pour it on, don't bother spritzing, saturate the area. Let it dry, don't blot it up. It's an enzyme solution that hydrates old urine and neutralizes it. I have used it on carpet-plus-pad on marks that were several years old but were still attracting attention from my little dog (therefore might be a place for her to pee!) and it works. She quit noticing they were there (couldn't smell them anymore) and the marks even partially faded. Waiting for the treated area to dry, and maybe still having to repeat, is a nuisance, but this stuff is much more effective than spray cans of deodorizer, and cheaper than calling in the professionals.
 
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