Dryer Causing Oven to Lose Power?


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Old 12-13-14, 07:05 PM
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Dryer Causing Oven to Lose Power?

Hi Everyone.

I'm at my wits end and decided to reach out to see if anyone else has had this problem.

Here's my problem at the highest level: Pressing the "Start" button on my dryer is no longer causing it to start. Instead, all I hear is a low hum from the dryer. Simultaneously, the power to my oven is also being cut for as long as the dryer start button is held down, and I also see a brief power interruption occur to an outlet in our living room.

These dryer and the oven are each 220V, and each have their own 220V breakers located side by side in my breaker box. The outlet in the living room is part of one of the regular 110V breakers.

I've tested the power outlet that the dryer is plugged into, and it indeed appears to be supplying 220V. I've also tested a different dryer on the same outlet and have seen the same results.

Additionally, I've had an electrician come out and check the breaker box. This box was replaced when we purchased the home in 2013 and the electrician was the same that did the install then. During the latest visit, he took off the panel face and checked the wire connections and tightened a few, but otherwise could not find anything that was obviously wrong.

We've also had FPL come out and check the power to the house, but they also said that power seemed normal. They had me test start the dryer while having their test equipment hooked up to the meter, but said there was nothing out of the ordinary occurring.

Has anyone ever run into anything like this before? It's driving me insane that I've had both a licensed electrician and FPL come out with zero headway made!

 
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Old 12-13-14, 08:30 PM
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Welcome to the forums.

You're kidding me..... you've had electricians look and not be able to find the problem ?

Your power company was on the right track. They had you load the line with the dryer. They didn't register a problem outside so the problem must be inside.

You can't just check for 240vac. You need to check with a load on the circuit.
So conversely your oven can't be working right either.... is that correct ?
If you put a range burner on or the electric oven on and go to the dryer receptacle.... you will probably not find 240vac there.
 
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Old 12-14-14, 02:33 AM
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Sounds like you need a motor in the dryer. Push start and you hear a groan or hum and dryer does not start is a common system of a bad dryer motor. button, reach in dryer and turn drum Try this (2people needed) hold in button to dryer door switch, push start button and turn drum, Did dryer start? If it did motor start circuit is bad and you need a motor. New motor may cure all your problems. Let us know what you find.
 
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Old 12-14-14, 04:58 AM
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I tend to agree with Don, since only the dryer is affected. Of course it doesn't explain two dryers exhibiting the same symptoms.
The outlet in the living room is part of one of the regular 110V breakers.
Haven't figured out what this has to do with the dryer circuit. Incidentally, you have 120 and 240 volt service in the US. What are you checking voltage with? You should be using an analog volt meter.
 
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Old 12-14-14, 07:18 AM
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Does your oven operate normally? If so, then I also suspect the dryer is having issues.
 
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Old 12-14-14, 09:20 AM
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@PJmax
Thanks for the welcome! I appreciate the suggestion about testing the dryer receptacle with the oven. I'll give that a test and report back my findings.

@pugsl
Going for a new dryer motor was one of my first thoughts. Purchased one from Sears online and had it delivered to the house. Disassembled the dryer, but just for fun tried to to start the motor without the barrel hooked up (by reconnecting the door close sensor). Sure enough the motor started right up. Kept the new motor for awhile anyway and later tried it with everything put back together but got the same result of just that low electrical hum. Ended up sending that motor back for a refund since that didn't seem to be the issue.

@chandler
I don't know why I was saying 110 and 220! To answer your question, it's been a digital meter.

@Tolyn
The oven does seem to be operating normally.
 
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Old 12-14-14, 09:43 AM
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Just for elimination try the dryer with the heating element disconnected. (Caveat: I'm not an appliance tech.)
 
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Old 12-14-14, 10:16 AM
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Try what I suggested for your dryer. Have seen many work for awhile than quit. Hum in dryer it near motor is almost always motor
 
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Old 12-14-14, 10:33 AM
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If the motor was stalled and drawing enough power to affect the oven.... something would happen. A breaker would trip, the motor would be smoking, etc. That much current can't be drawn and nothing happens.
 
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Old 12-14-14, 10:44 AM
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I would suggest you test both legs for voltage at the receptacle from hot to hot, hot to neutral and hot to ground.
 
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Old 12-14-14, 02:05 PM
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Hi All,

Thanks for all the suggestions/feedback! A few updates:

-I tested both legs at the receptacle and confirmed that 120 is present on both.

-I turned on the oven and again tested the dryer receptacle. Both legs were still indicating that 120 was present on each.

-I tried manually rotating the dryer drum while pressing the start button and holding in the door switch. The dryer still would not start even with that help and still made the humming noise. ***Keep in mind that I have previously tested out a brand new motor with the same result***

Any other ideas of things I could test?
 
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Old 12-14-14, 02:30 PM
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It is a wild shot, but what did voltage reading did you get across the two hots? Hot to neutral is good at 120 volts, but if by some quirk the breaker is hitting on the same buss bar, you won't have 240 volts. Is your breaker manufacturer and the panel manufacturer the same?
 
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Old 12-14-14, 02:39 PM
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You need to actually measure 240VAC at the receptacle. 120v on each side only tells half the story.
 
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Old 12-14-14, 02:39 PM
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@Chandler
Just tested hot to hot and it showed 240 on the money. Also, I can confirm that the breaker and panel manufacturer are the same.
 
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Old 12-14-14, 02:48 PM
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Just for fun, I'm going to take the dryer to another house to test it out. I'll report back the results.
 
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Old 12-14-14, 03:14 PM
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Can you turn the dryer by hand? don't try to start just turn drum Should turn fairly easy. If does not turn easy (there will be resistance from motor and bloweryou might have something stuck in blower wheel.
 
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Old 12-14-14, 03:26 PM
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Another update: Took the dryer over to my in-laws' house. Plugged it in and it started immediately. In fact, it seemed like it started with less effort/hesitation than at my place when it was working.

@pugsl
It will turn by hand with some resistance. Could that still be an issue given the experience I just had testing it out at the in-laws house?
 
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Old 12-14-14, 03:48 PM
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One more bit of information: After bringing the dryer back home and plugging it back in, I jus heard the hum once again. However, we tried giving the barrel a good spin while holding in the door switch and this time it started up. We did this multiple times and it worked each time. I guess I wasn't trying hard enough when doing that test the first time around.

So it seems like we've eliminated the dryer as the issue at this point???
 
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Old 12-14-14, 03:48 PM
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Does that drum turn freely?how is the belt? If it find the same thing with new motor,and your voltages are good it seems like a mechanical issue.
Sorry I just saw this was already suggested
Geo
 

Last edited by Geochurchi; 12-14-14 at 03:51 PM. Reason: Duplicate suggestion
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Old 12-14-14, 04:53 PM
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@Chandler
Just tested hot to hot and it showed 240 on the money. Also, I can confirm that the breaker and panel manufacturer are the same.
You've checked the dryer voltage and found 240 volts a couple times now, but no where do you mention checking each hot leg to neutral at the dryer receptacle. The dryer motor operates on 120 volts, not 240 volts. If you have a bad neutral connection in the circuit, the dryer motor will not start. Spinning the drum may have helped the motor to start, but the motor likely will not start again by itself till you find and correct the neutral connection that is bad.
 
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Old 12-14-14, 06:28 PM
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@CasualJoe
I tested each hot leg to neutral and found 120 on each. Perhaps I am doing something wrong though? Just so we're on the same page and I'm testing exactly what you are suggesting, how should I be testing hot to neutral?
 
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Old 12-14-14, 08:13 PM
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Perhaps I am doing something wrong though? Just so we're on the same page and I'm testing exactly what you are suggesting, how should I be testing hot to neutral?
You already know you have 240 volts at the receptacle. You should now check voltage at the receptacle across black and white and across red and white. If it checks out at 120 volts on each test, start following the circuit back to the panel and look for a loose neutral connection. The description you have given throughout this thread points to a bad neutral connection somewhere in the circuit especially when the dryer works fine on other dryer circuits. I suspect you have a loose neutral and the voltage is dropping significantly when you add a load to it.
 
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Old 12-15-14, 03:43 AM
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Sorry for late reply am on the road. Your dryer should be ok by what you said. As a laundry tech I Started there. The other appliances work right except when dryer is started? Just trying to narrow down what to look for. Do you have a multi meter? Clamp amp clamp around each lead from dryer (hard to do may have to cover plate off) read amps when dryer started on each wire. Sounds like a wiring issue, the where is the problem.
 
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Old 12-15-14, 10:20 AM
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The problem here that seems to have been forgotten is when the dryer is started the oven shuts off. That is not going to be a wiring problem in the dryer wiring or receptacle. If the dryer and the oven are on two separate double breakers....... then the problem is in the panel.... or what feeds the panel.

I feel the dryer is having a hard time starting because the leg the motor is on is the one that has the problem.
 
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Old 12-15-14, 07:34 PM
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Hi Everyone,

Thanks again for all the continued feedback. I'm going to have to take a break on this for a few days, but will probably resume the hunt Wednesday or Thursday. I'll be sure to report back as soon as I'm able to test a few more things.
 
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Old 12-15-14, 08:40 PM
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Just a guess. Try moving the the two breakers to different spots in the panel. (Maybe a fault with the bus?) Last resort how hard would it be to run a new feed to the dryer?
 
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Old 02-22-15, 08:58 AM
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Fixed!

Sorry for the delay in getting back to this thread! Thanks again to everyone for all of the suggestions.

So it seems that we have solved the problem. After simply disconnecting the water heater's breaker and pulling it out of the panel, we moved the dryer breaker down into it's place on the pole. This didn't seem to make any difference, so we went ahead and made the move to put everything back into the prior arrange. While reinstalling the breakers back into their previous position, we noticed that the breaker for the range (which is installed immediately to the right of the dryer breaker) had been inadvertently popped loose and so made sure that it was firmly snapped back into it's position.

Once everything was reinstalled back in the panel and feeling defeated, we thought we might as well give the dryer once last try. Wouldn't you know, it fired right up and has been working fine now for 2 months!

My best guess is that the range breaker was somehow not properly set in its position, and that by shear luck we happened to bump it further out of place so that we noticed that it needed to be snapped back down on the pole. I did not experiment afterwards and so can not say conclusively that this was the cause, but given everything else that was tried, I believe that the loose range breaker was the culprit behind of all our shenanigans.
 
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Old 02-22-15, 10:25 AM
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Sometimes the best tool in your tool box is serendipity. Thanks for letting us know the out come.
 
 

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