Momentary switch routing/wiring


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Old 12-23-14, 09:57 PM
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Momentary switch routing/wiring

I am building a darkroom in my basement and would like to have a "white light" or inspection light at the end of the sink, controlled with a momentary switch.

There is a stainless sink that backs on the wall, so I need to run the wire from the foot switch to the light between the walls (the backside is not closed yet).

Can I have SOOW wire go directly from the switch to the light, which would mean running it in the wall, I believe I have have to use NMD for the section in the wall?

If I use NMD, can I have a plug at the floor level that would in fact be two hots or travelers with the neutral only factoring in at the ceiling portion?

I am guessing there is some code rule against using a standard plug that has two hots and an interrupter plugged in to it, so maybe there is a better way to wire the switch or a special plug that could not be mistaken for a household plug.
 
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Old 12-23-14, 10:48 PM
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You could bring power directly to the light and then bring a piece of two wire NM down to a small junction box. You could use an L5-15P twist lock plug and an L5-15R receptacle. The footswitch should be connected with a piece of three wire cable.

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Old 12-24-14, 02:46 AM
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Flexible cord like SOOW cannot be used in a wall. Cord caps cannot be used on NM cable.
 
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Old 12-24-14, 07:20 AM
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Does not your timer have a safelight switch/button? Just need understanding why you need a momentary switch. When I did darkroom work, my safe lights were on until I hit the developer switch on the timer.
 
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Old 12-24-14, 08:39 AM
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PJmax
You could bring power directly to the light and then bring a piece of two wire NM down to a small junction box. You could use an L5-15P twist lock plug and an L5-15R receptacle. The footswitch should be connected with a piece of three wire cable.
I like that idea, pretty straight forward to setup.
The foot switch I have is only a two wire basic interrupter, without a ground. Is that deal breaker? Must I have a three wire foot switch?
 
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Old 12-24-14, 08:43 AM
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chandler
Does not your timer have a safelight switch/button? Just need understanding why you need a momentary switch. When I did darkroom work, my safe lights were on until I hit the developer switch on the timer.
The foot switch is just to turn on a white light that hangs over the fixer tray for a moment or two while you look at your last print to tweak it. It is a total luxury and I could live without it, but since I have not closed up the back side of the wall yet, I thought I would try to install one. In my last darkroom I had a pull chain light over the fixer and thought this would be a little cleaner setup.
 
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Old 12-24-14, 12:42 PM
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I wasn't inferring putting a cap on a piece of NM cable. NM cable to the box to a twist lock receptacle.

I had a very similar setup to what you are doing. I serviced a lot of tube TV's and had a deadmans floor switch(pedal) that was held down to activate the receptacle for the TV. If I was to slip or get shocked my foot would come off the pedal. My pedal came with a piece of #18 lamp cord that I change to 18-3 rubber cable.

The footswitch should be connected with a piece of three wire cable.
You could always run a third wire with the existing cord.
 
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Old 12-25-14, 05:18 PM
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Thank you PJmax,

I removed the wire that came with the foot switch, replaced it with 18-3 and will pick up a L5-15 duplex and 2 plugs, This will be great, now I am going to put one over each sink!

Thank you very much.
 
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Old 01-02-15, 11:53 AM
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L5-15 wiring help

The receptacle arrived today, I could not find one locally.

I was planing on having two foot switches control two lights, but I am not sure if I can rip this brass plate out and get the same result as cutting the tab on a normal receptacle?

I have already run 14-3 in the wall for this reason.

I would rather not have two switches that turn on both lights if either foot switch is activated.

Can the upper and lower plug on a L5-15r be used independently?

Thank you,
 
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Old 01-02-15, 01:04 PM
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I just got off the phone with Leviton, I thought they would be closed today, but support was open.

These plugs can not separated.

Any suggestions on another plug or wiring method to have 2 switches control separate lights with having to install a 2 gang box and 2x L5-15r?
 
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Old 01-02-15, 02:02 PM
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I'm just not really sure why you would need a twist lock receptacle, unless your lights already had the plugs on them. They can be changed out. At least with the standard receptacles you can separate the sides using a common neutral and have your cake and eat it too.
 
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Old 01-03-15, 08:54 AM
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Chandler,

That was my first plan, using a different colored plug face and labeling, but worried if it would pass inspection, the twist lock plug seamed like a safe bet to pass.

I will try it as it is wired now, either switch turns on a light over both sinks, and then re evaluate after i use it for a period.

Thank you for the help guys,
 
 

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