Momentary switch routing/wiring

Reply

  #1  
Old 12-23-14, 09:57 PM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 264
Momentary switch routing/wiring

I am building a darkroom in my basement and would like to have a "white light" or inspection light at the end of the sink, controlled with a momentary switch.

There is a stainless sink that backs on the wall, so I need to run the wire from the foot switch to the light between the walls (the backside is not closed yet).

Can I have SOOW wire go directly from the switch to the light, which would mean running it in the wall, I believe I have have to use NMD for the section in the wall?

If I use NMD, can I have a plug at the floor level that would in fact be two hots or travelers with the neutral only factoring in at the ceiling portion?

I am guessing there is some code rule against using a standard plug that has two hots and an interrupter plugged in to it, so maybe there is a better way to wire the switch or a special plug that could not be mistaken for a household plug.
 
Sponsored Links
  #2  
Old 12-23-14, 10:48 PM
PJmax's Avatar
Group Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Northern NJ - USA
Posts: 46,064
You could bring power directly to the light and then bring a piece of two wire NM down to a small junction box. You could use an L5-15P twist lock plug and an L5-15R receptacle. The footswitch should be connected with a piece of three wire cable.

Name:  BRA_4710.jpg
Views: 257
Size:  22.2 KB
 
  #3  
Old 12-24-14, 02:46 AM
pcboss's Avatar
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Maryland
Posts: 14,587
Flexible cord like SOOW cannot be used in a wall. Cord caps cannot be used on NM cable.
 
  #4  
Old 12-24-14, 07:20 AM
chandler's Avatar
Banned. Rule And/Or Policy Violation
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: USA
Posts: 39,968
Does not your timer have a safelight switch/button? Just need understanding why you need a momentary switch. When I did darkroom work, my safe lights were on until I hit the developer switch on the timer.
 
  #5  
Old 12-24-14, 08:39 AM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 264
PJmax
You could bring power directly to the light and then bring a piece of two wire NM down to a small junction box. You could use an L5-15P twist lock plug and an L5-15R receptacle. The footswitch should be connected with a piece of three wire cable.
I like that idea, pretty straight forward to setup.
The foot switch I have is only a two wire basic interrupter, without a ground. Is that deal breaker? Must I have a three wire foot switch?
 
  #6  
Old 12-24-14, 08:43 AM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 264
chandler
Does not your timer have a safelight switch/button? Just need understanding why you need a momentary switch. When I did darkroom work, my safe lights were on until I hit the developer switch on the timer.
The foot switch is just to turn on a white light that hangs over the fixer tray for a moment or two while you look at your last print to tweak it. It is a total luxury and I could live without it, but since I have not closed up the back side of the wall yet, I thought I would try to install one. In my last darkroom I had a pull chain light over the fixer and thought this would be a little cleaner setup.
 
  #7  
Old 12-24-14, 12:42 PM
PJmax's Avatar
Group Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Northern NJ - USA
Posts: 46,064
I wasn't inferring putting a cap on a piece of NM cable. NM cable to the box to a twist lock receptacle.

I had a very similar setup to what you are doing. I serviced a lot of tube TV's and had a deadmans floor switch(pedal) that was held down to activate the receptacle for the TV. If I was to slip or get shocked my foot would come off the pedal. My pedal came with a piece of #18 lamp cord that I change to 18-3 rubber cable.

The footswitch should be connected with a piece of three wire cable.
You could always run a third wire with the existing cord.
 
  #8  
Old 12-25-14, 05:18 PM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 264
Thank you PJmax,

I removed the wire that came with the foot switch, replaced it with 18-3 and will pick up a L5-15 duplex and 2 plugs, This will be great, now I am going to put one over each sink!

Thank you very much.
 
  #9  
Old 01-02-15, 11:53 AM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 264
L5-15 wiring help

The receptacle arrived today, I could not find one locally.

I was planing on having two foot switches control two lights, but I am not sure if I can rip this brass plate out and get the same result as cutting the tab on a normal receptacle?

I have already run 14-3 in the wall for this reason.

I would rather not have two switches that turn on both lights if either foot switch is activated.

Can the upper and lower plug on a L5-15r be used independently?

Thank you,
 
Attached Images  
  #10  
Old 01-02-15, 01:04 PM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 264
I just got off the phone with Leviton, I thought they would be closed today, but support was open.

These plugs can not separated.

Any suggestions on another plug or wiring method to have 2 switches control separate lights with having to install a 2 gang box and 2x L5-15r?
 
  #11  
Old 01-02-15, 02:02 PM
chandler's Avatar
Banned. Rule And/Or Policy Violation
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: USA
Posts: 39,968
I'm just not really sure why you would need a twist lock receptacle, unless your lights already had the plugs on them. They can be changed out. At least with the standard receptacles you can separate the sides using a common neutral and have your cake and eat it too.
 
  #12  
Old 01-03-15, 08:54 AM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 264
Chandler,

That was my first plan, using a different colored plug face and labeling, but worried if it would pass inspection, the twist lock plug seamed like a safe bet to pass.

I will try it as it is wired now, either switch turns on a light over both sinks, and then re evaluate after i use it for a period.

Thank you for the help guys,
 
Reply

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Display Modes