Problem Installing Honeywell Timer Switch PLS750C1000

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  #1  
Old 01-07-15, 06:05 PM
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Problem Installing Honeywell Timer Switch PLS750C1000

I got this Honeywell timer online to replace a 3-way switch that controls outside lighting. I followed the instructions and connected the blue (LOAD) wire on the timer to the black (COMMON) wire from the old switch; the yellow (3-WAY) wire on the timer to the red wire from the old switch; the black (LINE) wire from the timer to the remaining black wire from the old switch; and did not connect the ground wire from the old switch as the timer does not have a ground connection.

Now, the white (NEUTRAL) wire from the timer I tried connecting to three different bundles that are on switch box. This is a triple switch box with two 3-way switches (1 on each corner) and a single switch in the middle. There are two white cable bundles made up of two white wires each, and then a bigger bundle of white wires (like 4 if I recall correctly) in there as well. I tried connecting the white (NEUTRAL) from the timer to each bundle, but it did not work.

I followed the instructions and switched the Blue (LOAD) with the Black (LINE) wires just in case, and it did not work either. This timer also comes with a small red wire (Bridge) to connect on the other 3-way switch on the circuit which is located in the garage. I did install the bridge as specified in the instructions, but then it was tripping a GFCI receptacle located nearby, which was not resetting, turning power off to the garage door motor and the water softener. I had to remove the bridge in order for the GFCI receptacle to reset and allow the other systems to work.

However, I turned on the breakers when the bridge was installed and the timer still did not turn on. Is this a bad switch? Or maybe all those white wires inside the box do not correspond to the proper neutral wire required by the timer to function? How can I know? Or where should I look for the correct neutral if that is the case? Please HELP as it is hard to find a timer this nice locally. Thank you.
 

Last edited by Pancho_Villa; 01-07-15 at 07:18 PM.
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  #2  
Old 01-07-15, 06:37 PM
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Does power come in at the switch? Is there more then one breaker supplying power to the switch box? If not there should only be one bundle of neutrals. Assuming only one breaker find the two conductor cable (black and white) which is the power in cable. The white of that cable will be in the neutral group you need to connect to. If no power in cable but switch loops only post back.

Please use paragraphs. Had to give up trying to read your post because too hard with no paragraphs but hopefully my answer will help.
 
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Old 01-07-15, 07:16 PM
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Sorry about that. Will edit original post.

UPDATE: I gave up for the night, so I decided to leave the timer connected as per the instructions, and told my wife to turn on the outside lights at the other 3-way switch connected to the timer circuit in the garage. When she turned on the switch at the garage, voila!, the timer turned on as well!! However, none of the other lights controlled by the same breaker turn on, only the outside lights controlled by the timer.

Again, the timer came on after turning on the other switch in the circuit. Is this why that small bridge wire is needed? But how can I fix this without tripping the GFCI receptacle I mentioned in my original post?

BTW, this means that I did connect it to the proper neutral wire, correct?

Please help. I feel it might be something simple to fix this.
 
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Old 01-07-15, 08:18 PM
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I'm trying to work thru the schematic of the timer and what you did. It would make sense that the GFI is tripping because you connected to the wrong neutral point. You may have connected to the load side of the GFI receptacle.
 
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Old 01-08-15, 01:54 PM
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Ok. I will try to explain it better. I'm trying to install the timer inside to control the outside lighting. The other switch that controls the same outside lighting in this 3-Way circuit is located in the garage, and the GFI receptacle is also in the garage. So, from right to left, starting in the garage, I have that GFI receptacle that was tripping when I installed the jumper wire that came with the switch, then the other 3-way switch to which I am NOT installing the timer, and then the switch inside the house to which I want to install the timer. The distance from the receptacle to the first switch is around 8 or 9 feet, then from the first switch to where the timer will go is probably like 15 to 20 feet.

If I installed to the wrong neutral point, would the timer be turning on at all? Just wondering.

I am thinking that it is the fact that the jumper wire has not been installed and the instructions clearly state that it has to be installed on the OTHER switch in the 3-Way circuit with one end on the common screw and the other on the screw where the LINE wire of the timer is connected. The wires on that switch were connected using the fast installation where the wire is pushed into a small hole, not using the screws. So, when I connected the jumper wire, I did so to the bare screws on the outside of the switch that were not used. Is that a problem? Should I remove/cut the wires and reinstall on the screws and try again?

BTW, what is the jumper wire for?

Thank you for your help.
 
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Old 01-08-15, 02:36 PM
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Normally you would have only one neutral group in a residential switch box (if it has any neutrals). The only reason for two would be lighting on two separate breakers but that is not that common* yet you have written there are two groups of neutrals. Do each of these groups have only white wires in them? Can you post a picture? http://www.doityourself.com/forum/li...rt-images.html

*Multiple switch switch boxes with 3-ways at the top and bottom of stairs comes to mind as one reason.
 
  #7  
Old 01-08-15, 04:35 PM
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UPDATE: It WORKS! I left it installed as I had installed it originally and decided to simply cut the wires that had been "quick" installed on the other switch in the same 3-Way circuit, strip them, and connect them to the screws instead. Then I connected the jumper wire per the instructions and it started working perfectly fine. All lights are now functioning and the timer is functioning perfectly. Could not be more happy. It was all an issue with the jumper wire not making contact with the LINE and COMMON wires on the other switch in the 3-Way circuit. As soon as it did, it worked. Thank you all!
 
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Old 01-08-15, 04:45 PM
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Good job I was just drawing up a diagram for you.
 
  #9  
Old 01-08-15, 06:01 PM
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Thank you for your help. I am glad I was able to figure it out.
 
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