Dimmer advice for LED lights

I'm going to add 10 recessed ceiling lights (4") in our living room on a total of 4 dimmers. One dimmer will control just 1 light and the other 3 dimmers will each control 3 lights. I'm planning to put all the dimmers in one 4 gang extra deep metal box with 14-2 wiring (no 3-way switching). I've been researching dimmers and am narrowing in on a Lutron Diva CL (Lutron Diva® Dimmer and Switch Overview) and a Legrand Harmony (120V Harmony® CFL/LED Dimmer, 3 Interchangeable Face Colors | by Legrand).

I've read lots of online reviews for each where they are either the best dimmer ever or the worst dimmer ever. And honestly I'm sure a lot of those reviewers have no idea what they are talking about to begin with. So I thought I'd come to a source I've learned to trust. Is one of the above dimmers better? The Legrand doesn't need to be derated like the Lutron would in my installation, so does that mean the Lutron may run hotter? Is one better at dimming LEDs with no noise or flickering?

Thanks for the help.

 

You have to make sure the dimmers and LED bulbs are compatible. One or the other (or both) manufacturers will publish compatibility lists for which LEDs and which dimmers will work best together. The end result depends entirely on getting a good compatibility match. I happen to have the list for Sylvania LEDs in my bookmarks: https://assets.sylvania.com/assets/D...6ef4691e05.pdf I'm sure you can find other ones pretty easily.

 

Most, if not all, dimmers have breakaway metal tabs you have to break off if you gang the dimmers. Once you break those tabs off.... the dimmer gets derated.

 

I'm going to go with the Lutron dimmer and the Sylvania SE LEDs as both say their product has been tested with the other.

Question about installing the switch box. I'd like it to be as close to the end of the new wall I'm building as possible. Is it OK to nail the box to very last stud? Will this leave enough room for the plasterer to work between the box and the end of the wall just a few inches away?

 

One more question: I'm going to use Halo H99ICAT 4" recessed lights. Their catalog states

"Outer Housing: Aluminum construction helps dissipate heat.
• Inner Housing: Double wall aluminum construction helps dissipate heat.
The inner housing can be adjusted in the plaster frame to compensate for different ceiling materials."

I bought one light and see no way to adjust the inner frame for ceiling thickness. I don't even understand what the plaster frame is. Can anyone educate me on this?

 

The plaster frame is to compensate for the drywall thickness. When installed, the metal round ring should be as flush with the drywall as possible. And when installing your 4 gang box, try to give room so they can drywall all the way around the box. Double the stud if possible. Also remember the faceplate is wider than the box.

 

Tigerbite gave you some good info.

Definitely double the stud in a corner mounted box. It doesn't have to be a full stud.... just a short piece is ok too.

With that fixture.... the plaster ring is the bottom part of the bracket that actually goes thru the sheetrock. It is setup for 1/2" sheetrock minimum. The internal part of the can.... can be lower down thru that ring.

 

Ok that makes sense about the inner plaster ring and is how I assumed it worked. But I cannot get the inner ring to pull out of the outer ring. It looks like it is made to be pulled out. There is a tab on the inside that I thought maybe needed to be pushed down to release the inner ring but no matter what I do, I cannot get the inner ring pulled out. What is the trick I'm missing?

 

Generally a sheet metal screw or two needs to be backed out to make the adjustment.

 

I see no screws. Does the housing need to be taken apart to access the screws?

 

Each fixture is different. If you can take a photo or have a model number, it'll be easier to describe it.

 

Halo H99ICAT from Lowes. There are no set screws anywhere. Manipulating the tab inside the can does not do anything as far as I can tell in terms of releasing the inner ring to be extended out. There are 4 little V notches 90° apart around the outside. I tried prying the inner ring out by inserting a screwdriver here but all that does is bend the lip of inner ring instead of extending the inner ring out from the outer ring, even when prying up and manipulating the tab inside the can. I'm at a loss and open to suggestions. Thanks.

 

From the looks of it, you can just pull the inner housing right out by hand, since there are no screws or bolts holding it in. When installed and finished, the only way you can access the junction box is through that inner housing.

 

It will not budge by just pulling on it. I even tried other of the same model in the store and none of them would pull out either. Maybe this model doesn't have adjustable inner ring?

 

Any other ideas to getting the inner ring out?

 

Try to remove the bulb socket by squeezing the clips that hold it, and see if there is a screw or clip or something underneath the socket. Recessed housings are completely removable to be code compliant.

 

I don't see any clips that hold the bulb socket???

 

I contacted Halo to ask how to adjust the inner ring and they replied saying it's just held in by friction and it just pulls out on the H99ICAT. I must have tried pulling the inner ring out of a dozen housings in the store and could not get any to budge. Is it a big deal if I can't? How will it effect the installation and overall appearance into my thicker than 1/2" ceiling once the baffle trim kit is installed?

As a completely different solution, does anyone have any experience with this Juno housing: Product-Family The instructions say you can "adjust fixture for ceiling thickness by loosening hex screws that attach the round housing to the plaster frame." This makes it sound like it would be a lot easier than the 4" Halo.