What About The Red Wire

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  #1  
Old 01-30-15, 08:54 AM
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What About The Red Wire

Separated from: http://www.doityourself.com/forum/el...-red-wire.html

I'm installing this same light, or one very much like it. There is a seperate red, black, and white wire, coming out of the light fixture. I need to get this to a regular old light switch. The wire I purchased to go from the light fixture to the wall switch has three wires inside of it, Black, white, and bare copper.

Which color wires on the light fixture, red black and white, do I connect to the wire (black, white, and bare copper) that goes to the light switch?

Then, which colors on that same wire hook up to what points on the light switch?
 

Last edited by ray2047; 01-30-15 at 09:10 AM.
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  #2  
Old 01-30-15, 08:59 AM
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Size:  32.8 KBBefore I read this post I wired the light fixtures white to the wire going to the wall's white, The fixture's black, to the wire going to the wall's black, and the fixture's red to the wire going to the wall's bare copper.

Im going to post a few pictures.

So what is the right way to do this with that fixture, wire to wall, and wall switch?
 
  #3  
Old 01-30-15, 09:17 AM
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and the fixture's red to the wire going to the wall's bare copper.
Excellent way to electrocute some one. Remove Immediately. Red is always for a hot connection. Never connect to the ground.

There should be a wiring diagram on your fluorescent light. Please post a clear picture of it.
 
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Old 01-30-15, 09:22 AM
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The black, red and white wires coming out of the fixture look like they were field installed, what do they connect to inside the fixture? The catalog number of the Lithonia fixture may also be helpful.
 
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Old 01-30-15, 09:27 AM
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Thank you for the response Ray.
I feel like an idiot for not noticing these diagrams.
I disconnected the red wire from the fixture that I had wired to the ground.
The wiring inside the fixture was all connected already. But I can open it up and take a picture of that too
 
  #6  
Old 01-30-15, 09:33 AM
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So the red and black fixture wires go to the black house wire. This is a commercial fixture and probably set up so half the lights could be controlled by one switch and the other half by another switch. Check to see how 120 volts is selected. It may be self sensing.
 
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Old 01-30-15, 09:42 AM
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Just connect it..... those use electronic ballasts that operate from 120v thru 277v.
 
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Old 01-30-15, 09:47 AM
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Please make the connections to the house cable in the fixture and be sure to use a cable clamp.
 
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Old 01-30-15, 09:48 AM
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Okay, black and red from the fixture now go to the wall using the black line of the wire that goes from the fixture to the wall.

Pcboss, I'll find a cable clamp next trip to the hardware store and will move the connections into the light fixture.
 
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Old 01-30-15, 10:11 AM
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So, on the light switch side, this is what I believe the diagram is telling me to do. Am I correct?
 
  #11  
Old 01-30-15, 10:19 AM
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The bare should not be cut. Splice it to any other grounds and to the fixture.
 
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Old 01-30-15, 10:47 AM
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There is a bare ground in the back of your box.

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Old 01-30-15, 11:45 AM
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See if this helps. Hopefully they left a grounding screw for you in the light fixture.

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  #14  
Old 01-30-15, 01:08 PM
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Thanks for all the great help. I picked up a few things at the hardware store and I'm going to clean everything up now.

Thanks for that diagram too! Name:  image.jpg
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Old 01-30-15, 02:12 PM
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NM-b (Romex) can not be just stapled to the wall. It must be run in the wall or otherwise protected.
 
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Old 02-03-15, 08:44 AM
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"NM-b (Romex) can not be just stapled to the wall. It must be run in the wall or otherwise protected."

I wish the guy at Home Depot had told me that. I made sure to tell him that I couldn't go through the roof and wall. So, if I decide to replace the fixture to wall wire that I have with something that doesn't have to go behind the roof and wall, what would best for this application?
 
  #17  
Old 02-03-15, 08:51 AM
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Another question that shows my lack of electrical experience..
The light works without any type of grounding connection. Is it necessary to hook of the bare copper grounding wire to a nut on the fixture and to the wall outlet? I'll do it. Just trying to understand.
 
  #18  
Old 02-03-15, 08:56 AM
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Well you have learned the truth about the so-called Big-Box experts. You could use surface raceway such as Wiremold. If you do use Wiremold you use individual conductors not cable.It may though be able to run the cable with only a couple of small holes. Let us know if you are interested.

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Old 02-03-15, 09:33 AM
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I am going to differ with a point. NM can be run on the surface as long as it is not subject to physical damage. If subject to damage it needs protection.
 
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Old 02-03-15, 05:27 PM
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As to your question on grounding, fluorescents love grounds, so hook it up. It also allows a pathway back to the panel that is necessary in the event of a fault.
 
  #21  
Old 02-04-15, 04:24 PM
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Ray could you elaborate a bit more about the red wire?
I have hooked up a few of these fixtures over the years and have a comfortable understanding of the basics, however I have never encountered the extra red wire? Based on the wiring diagram if this is a stand alone light what purpose does the red serve? Could it be left unconnected?

Thanks
 
  #22  
Old 02-04-15, 04:29 PM
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You have four lamps. Two are powered by the black wire (and white) and two are powered by the red wire (and white). This is so you can have two switches if you want. One for each pair of lamps.
 
  #23  
Old 02-04-15, 04:45 PM
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Thanks
There is no clear picture of the fixture being 4 lights but now I understand. Everything I have done in the past were typically 2 bulb flouresent fixtures so that explains never seeing the red wire.

On that note
I will soon be choosing flouresent light fixtures for my workshop, most likely an 8 foot fixture which will be using 4 48" bulbs, will I also be encountering the red wire? or is that a specific type of commercial fixture
 
  #24  
Old 02-04-15, 05:42 PM
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It is up to the manufacturer.
 
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