Are there switch plates with "depth" ?
#1
Member
Thread Starter
Are there switch plates with "depth" ?
Do they make switch plates that has some depth to accommodate when the device is too bulky?
I have a metal handy box and I need to put in a ceiling fan/light control and there is not enough depth in the box to fit the wiring and the switch, so it is protruding about 3/8" to 1/2" out of the finished wall. Is there any sort of extra deep switch plate cover that can address this issue?

The metal handy box is attached to an EMT conduit coming from the bottom (home run to panel under the slab), and another EMT conduit out of the top (going up to the ceiling fan). So my other option is to see if I can remove the lock nut to the connector at the top and bottom, and see if I can free the handy box, then cut the opening wider and put in a 2 gang box by connecting the EMT conduit back...I just don't know if that would work...if the EMT conduit is strapped at the top then I don't think I can free the box.
PS. I know I can attach a single gang extension ring to that box then put a cover on. That would end up with a metal box sticking out at least an inch so I am looking for something a bit more elegant.
I have a metal handy box and I need to put in a ceiling fan/light control and there is not enough depth in the box to fit the wiring and the switch, so it is protruding about 3/8" to 1/2" out of the finished wall. Is there any sort of extra deep switch plate cover that can address this issue?

The metal handy box is attached to an EMT conduit coming from the bottom (home run to panel under the slab), and another EMT conduit out of the top (going up to the ceiling fan). So my other option is to see if I can remove the lock nut to the connector at the top and bottom, and see if I can free the handy box, then cut the opening wider and put in a 2 gang box by connecting the EMT conduit back...I just don't know if that would work...if the EMT conduit is strapped at the top then I don't think I can free the box.
PS. I know I can attach a single gang extension ring to that box then put a cover on. That would end up with a metal box sticking out at least an inch so I am looking for something a bit more elegant.
#2
No... no deep plates that I'm aware of but you could use a Wiremold box from Legrand.
You could drill out the two switch holes and use long screws to go thru the wiremold box into your existing box. You wouldn't need the back metal part of the box.
Wiremold V5748S Single Gang Box in Ivory.
You could drill out the two switch holes and use long screws to go thru the wiremold box into your existing box. You wouldn't need the back metal part of the box.
Wiremold V5748S Single Gang Box in Ivory.

#3
I have a metal handy box and I need to put in a ceiling fan/light control and there is not enough depth in the box to fit the wiring and the switch,
#4
Member
Thread Starter
hmmm...what if I cut a rectangular hole next to the current handy box, and gang in another handy box using a short short box spacer, I will be able to use one box for the wiring, and the new box for the bulky switch. Will I be able to use a two gang plate? Or I will have to use two single plates spaced apart?
#5
what if I cut a rectangular hole next to the current handy box, and gang in another handy box using a short short box spacer, I will be able to use one box for the wiring, and the new box for the bulky switch. Will I be able to use a two gang plate? Or I will have to use two single plates spaced apart?
#7
It may not be to your decor, but I had this happen once where the customer didn't want to tear into the walls to replace the box, which IMO was too small. I went to my shop and using 1/2" oak, routed a nice wall plate, slightly larger than the intended cover plate, so it fit over the entire box and switch. I glued it to the wall and installed the cover plate. It could have been stained or painted to match the walls.
#8
Member
Thread Starter
Thanks Chandler PJMax I have a few ideas now.
Plan A - if I can remove the lock nut on the top conduit, I will give it a push and see if it is strapped. If it moves I will remove the bottom EMT connection, and the handy box. I will either widen the wallboard hole and put in a two gang box, or use a handy box with an extension ring.
Plan B - install the original receiver to the fan and go with a remote, making this bulky switch unnecessary.
Plan C - use PJMax suggestion and get a 1/2" surface mount extension.
Plan D - get a new ceiling fan and use pull chains for control, and just wire the fan light to the wall switch.
Plan A - if I can remove the lock nut on the top conduit, I will give it a push and see if it is strapped. If it moves I will remove the bottom EMT connection, and the handy box. I will either widen the wallboard hole and put in a two gang box, or use a handy box with an extension ring.
Plan B - install the original receiver to the fan and go with a remote, making this bulky switch unnecessary.
Plan C - use PJMax suggestion and get a 1/2" surface mount extension.
Plan D - get a new ceiling fan and use pull chains for control, and just wire the fan light to the wall switch.
#10
Check this link,extension ring at bottom of page should work.
https://www.platt.com/CutSheets/Wire...%20raceway.pdf
Geo
https://www.platt.com/CutSheets/Wire...%20raceway.pdf
Geo