Who makes shallow 4-gang switch boxes?
#1
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Who makes shallow 4-gang switch boxes?
We are in the process of rewiring our modular home and a constant stumbling block are the narrow walls. We have already cut a space for a 4-gang box but I can find nothing that will fit the space. Specifically we need:
• 4-gang rectangular
• 3-1/8 depth or less
• Old work
• preferably plastic
Surely there are other manufactured homeowners with this issue. Does anyone know where I can order this animal?
• 4-gang rectangular
• 3-1/8 depth or less
• Old work
• preferably plastic
Surely there are other manufactured homeowners with this issue. Does anyone know where I can order this animal?
#2
Use gangable boxes and Madison clips.

Or gangable old work boxes. Example: GSB-1-OW - Gangable Switch Boxes - Electrical Junction Boxes - Steel Products

Or gangable old work boxes. Example: GSB-1-OW - Gangable Switch Boxes - Electrical Junction Boxes - Steel Products

#3
Welcome to the forums.
I don't think you'll find four gang shallow plastic boxes.
If you cut for plastic you're going to be in trouble as metal boxes are smaller than plastic.
Metal cut-in gems come in all different depths and the sides are removable for ganging together. You can connect an infinite number of metal gems.
I don't think you'll find four gang shallow plastic boxes.
If you cut for plastic you're going to be in trouble as metal boxes are smaller than plastic.
Metal cut-in gems come in all different depths and the sides are removable for ganging together. You can connect an infinite number of metal gems.

#5
No, only metal, to my knowledge. How many cables will you have running into each box gang?
Edit: my mistake. Arlington makes them. Don't know where you would get them, but here's a link to study http://www.cableorganizer.com/arling...plastic-boxes/
Edit: my mistake. Arlington makes them. Don't know where you would get them, but here's a link to study http://www.cableorganizer.com/arling...plastic-boxes/
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Alas, 'tis true. They are 3.5" deep. Too deep for my walls.
For reference, here's a shot of the wiring that needs to go in the box. Along with an outlet, a fan timer and two toggle switches. Think the ganged metal boxes are going to do the job?
For reference, here's a shot of the wiring that needs to go in the box. Along with an outlet, a fan timer and two toggle switches. Think the ganged metal boxes are going to do the job?

#8
Yes the metal boxes will work for you but like I mentioned previously..... if you cut the hole in the wall for plastic boxes.... the metal ones will fall right thru.
I did find this box at the depot. Could be a little tricky to mount.
Raco 2-5/8 in. Deep 55 cu. in. 4-Gang Square Non-Metallic Cable Box-7645RAC - The Home Depot
I did find this box at the depot. Could be a little tricky to mount.
Raco 2-5/8 in. Deep 55 cu. in. 4-Gang Square Non-Metallic Cable Box-7645RAC - The Home Depot
#9
With option limited by the Sheetrock already being cut I'd suggest PJ's last option. Cut the Sheetrock all the way to the studs then patch after installation with a new piece of Sheetrock.
Plan B a bit trickier but what I would do because I am lousy at Sheetrock repair is to fill in the top and bottom with about a half inch strip of Sheetrock. I'd fasten with screws and construction adhesive a 1x2 inside the wall extending down a half in or so below the top and bottom of the hole to glue the Sheetrock strip to. Then proceed with the Gem box.
Plan B a bit trickier but what I would do because I am lousy at Sheetrock repair is to fill in the top and bottom with about a half inch strip of Sheetrock. I'd fasten with screws and construction adhesive a 1x2 inside the wall extending down a half in or so below the top and bottom of the hole to glue the Sheetrock strip to. Then proceed with the Gem box.
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All good suggestions. I am also not terrible adept at sheet rock repair. I have one more alternate solution and that is to get a 4-gang Smart Box and a use a Wizard tool (or maybe just a hacksaw) to cut it down by 1/4 inch. I think the plastic is pliable enough that this could be done without cracking and the form has no flip-up wings to worry about.
I'll let you know my final solution when I arrive at it!
I'll let you know my final solution when I arrive at it!

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Nope, I did pretty well and managed to take 1/4 " off the front with no issues using a rotary cutting tool. But then I found a new work box that was even shallower, so we cut the wings off that (same technique) and secured it at both ends using screws. This works perfectly for my purposes.
Lesson learned here -- don't cut your drywall without measuring the depth of your box!
Lesson learned here -- don't cut your drywall without measuring the depth of your box!