Replace hardwired garbage disposal with corded
#1
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: USA
Posts: 22
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
Replace hardwired garbage disposal with corded
My garbage disposal's housing started leaking so I bought a new one. The old garbage disposal was hardwired and the new one is corded. I bought a GCFI receptacle and PVC box. Attached the romex coming out of the wall (white, black, ground) to the receptacle, plugged in the new disposal, nothing.
I used a circuit tester (two leads and a light) and confirmed that the romex coming out of the wall is hot, but only when the GC switch is on. The tester did not light when I used it on the attached receptacle.
Did I get a bum receptacle or am I missing something?
I used a circuit tester (two leads and a light) and confirmed that the romex coming out of the wall is hot, but only when the GC switch is on. The tester did not light when I used it on the attached receptacle.
Did I get a bum receptacle or am I missing something?
#2
Did you connect the Romex to only the LINE terminals on the receptacle? Black to brass, white to silver, green to ground. You also usually need to do one "test" + "reset" cycle on a new GFCI receptacle the first time you connect power.
#3
A GFI receptacle needs power to reset. If it doesn't have power.... the reset button wont stay in when pressed.
Did you try turning the switch on and then hitting the reset button ?
Did you try turning the switch on and then hitting the reset button ?
#4
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: USA
Posts: 22
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
Thanks for the reply.
Yes, the other terminals were taped over with that yellow tape. The receptacle I have didnt seem to have "brass" or "silver," but I attached the white to the terminal closest to the ground connection per the advice of the electrical guy at Home Depot.
Not sure what the test + reset cycle is, maybe that's what I'm missing. What does this cycle involve?
Yes, the other terminals were taped over with that yellow tape. The receptacle I have didnt seem to have "brass" or "silver," but I attached the white to the terminal closest to the ground connection per the advice of the electrical guy at Home Depot.
Not sure what the test + reset cycle is, maybe that's what I'm missing. What does this cycle involve?
#6
Temporarily Suspended
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: NY
Posts: 10,265
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
The Romex should be hot at all times. The receptacle is only hot when the switch isn't tripped. Just reviewing the basics, the black wire is connected to the brass screw, the white to the silver/chrome screw & the copper to the green screw. One the panel box, is the copper wire connected to the neutral bar?
#7
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: USA
Posts: 22
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
Re the Romex being hot at all times, that's what I thought as well - I was surprised that it depended on the switch. I'm pretty sure I hooked up the plug correctly, I redid it three times to make sure. By panel box, are you referring to the breaker box (mine's in the garage)? I havent checked that and I'm not really sure if I know how.
#8
The test/reset cycle is using the "TEST" and "RESET" buttons on the GFCI receptacle while the switch is turned on. GFCI receptacles are shipped from the factory in the OFF/TRIPPED position, you have to "RESET" it after power is connected to turn it on.
#12
I have to disagree with a couple of things here. I just installed a GFCI and the screws were all the same color. Now this was an older one if that matters, but there was markings on the back telling you where things should go.
And why would the Romex be hot all the time under the sink? If it was hard wired, the switch is what controlled the flow. Otherwise the GD would be running constantly, yes? I'm assuming Ron just used the same wiring and box, but added a GFCI to the end.
Turn the switch on, hit the test button, hit the reset button. If the reset stays in, you should have power. Thats why I like the GFCIs that have the little LED indicator when they are hot. They cost a tiny bit more, but make it easier to tell if they have power or are tripped.
And why would the Romex be hot all the time under the sink? If it was hard wired, the switch is what controlled the flow. Otherwise the GD would be running constantly, yes? I'm assuming Ron just used the same wiring and box, but added a GFCI to the end.
Turn the switch on, hit the test button, hit the reset button. If the reset stays in, you should have power. Thats why I like the GFCIs that have the little LED indicator when they are hot. They cost a tiny bit more, but make it easier to tell if they have power or are tripped.
#15
I bought a GCFI receptacle and PVC box. Attached the romex coming out of the wall (white, black, ground) to the receptacle, plugged in the new disposal, nothing.
#16
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: USA
Posts: 22
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
I did the test + reset procedure with the switch on and now it works fine. Thanks everyone for your help.
Re whether to use a GFCI receptacle, I was going to use a standard receptacle but the guy at Home Depot who helped me is apparently a licensed electrician who moonlights at HD. He told me our local code required a GFCI for this application.
Re whether to use a GFCI receptacle, I was going to use a standard receptacle but the guy at Home Depot who helped me is apparently a licensed electrician who moonlights at HD. He told me our local code required a GFCI for this application.