Electrical outlet box in new drywall
#1
04-04-15, 05:48 AM
Electrical outlet box in new drywall
I recently replaced a wall in my kitchen with a new piece of drywall. When I try to re-connect the electrical box if I screw the outlet all the way into the box then the outlet sets behind the drywall and I can't get the cover plate on. If I don't screw it in all the way then the outlet is almost flush with the drywall but when I plug something in, the outlet gets pushed back into the box.
What did I do wrong and how can I recover. I think I might have cut the hole to big.
What did I do wrong and how can I recover. I think I might have cut the hole to big.
#2
04-04-15, 05:53 AM
Member
Drywall
You are correct. The hole is too big. The ears on the yoke of the receptacle are supposed to rest on the outer surface of the drywall. The front edge of the box should be flush with the outer surface of the drywall.
#4
04-04-15, 07:27 AM
Thread moved to electrical forum as this is an electrical question.
The sheet rock around the box should be filled in to the box with jpint compound and perhaps taped then you need need a box extender. Example: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...VQS2BBJHAZ8G6G
The sheet rock around the box should be filled in to the box with jpint compound and perhaps taped then you need need a box extender. Example: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...VQS2BBJHAZ8G6G
#5
04-13-15, 12:29 PM
Greg,
I've also cut more than my share of too-big-of-openings for boxes, and have had to waste time patching or going back to store for oversized "oops plates".
Then I found this tool called BlindMark that is sold at home depot.com Blind Mark Drywall Electrical Box Locating Tool Kit (4-Pieces)-BMWK - The Home Depot
You pop a target into the electrical box, put up the drywall and then re-find the target in the box using this super rare-earh magnets, dead on accurate without measuring! Perfect matchup, no more patching.
They are so powerful it pretty amazing and a little bit fun. I have also used it through paneling, 3/4" plywood, exterior siding and even 1/2" slate tile to cutout around a floor register opening. They are not cheap but to me worth every penny.
Hope this helps,
been there!
I've also cut more than my share of too-big-of-openings for boxes, and have had to waste time patching or going back to store for oversized "oops plates".
Then I found this tool called BlindMark that is sold at home depot.com Blind Mark Drywall Electrical Box Locating Tool Kit (4-Pieces)-BMWK - The Home Depot
You pop a target into the electrical box, put up the drywall and then re-find the target in the box using this super rare-earh magnets, dead on accurate without measuring! Perfect matchup, no more patching.
They are so powerful it pretty amazing and a little bit fun. I have also used it through paneling, 3/4" plywood, exterior siding and even 1/2" slate tile to cutout around a floor register opening. They are not cheap but to me worth every penny.
Hope this helps,
been there!
#6
04-13-15, 03:00 PM
Geeze $35 to do what can be done with a little grease on the edge of the box. Grease on the edge of the box, put Sheetrock in place, press Sheetrock against box, remove Sheetrock and use grease outline to cut.
That is an old timer way. Newcomers will tell you about cutting in place with a Roto zip. Even quicker.
That is an old timer way. Newcomers will tell you about cutting in place with a Roto zip. Even quicker.
#8
04-13-15, 04:15 PM
Group Moderator
$35 and nothing for round boxes, boxes greater then single gang, and recessed cans. Rotozip with a drywall bit is the only way to go. However it still takes practice to get the cut out right.
#9
04-14-15, 06:50 AM
Agreed Rotozip with a drywall bit is the only way to go -- plunge in the center, jump over the edge of the box, and just trace around it by feel. Going blind around a box with a keyhole saw is a sure fire way to destroy your Romex. Not to mention what are you supposed to do on the stud side? Make 10 passes with a utility blade?
Actually, no. The best way to go is to hire a drywaller and let them deal with it. I hate doing drywall.
Actually, no. The best way to go is to hire a drywaller and let them deal with it. I hate doing drywall.
#10
04-14-15, 07:27 AM
chalk on the edge of the box will also work
(My brother speculated that the electrician started using the lipstick after his wife found the lipstick in his tool belt....
)
#11
04-14-15, 12:40 PM
yeah agree best way would be to get someone else to do it! But some times the job is too small, 1-2 walls, so we do our best I guess.
I've done the lipstick, chalk or grease method but don't love it for two reasons -- it's a lot of up and down with that big panel pressing it against, taking it down and cutting and putting it back up -- wear and tear on me and the corners sometimes get bunged up. With the magnet thing you put it up once and screw it in and then find/cut out the boxes.
The other reason, and this is pure operator error on me, but I once managed to still get a mis-placed hole that had to be cut bigger to fit because the first time I put the sheet up to press against the lipstick it must not have gone fully into the corner, but after i cut it and put it up the second time it slid in a little farther, but then the box cutout was off almost 3/8". My bad. I don't do enough of this to be practiced/good at it I guess.
Tolyn it looks like they do have ones for round can lights and octo-boxes on homeDepot site but I didn't have any of those so went with the regular set. Which agreed is a little pricey at $35, but like I said kinda fun. And i discovered they make killer magnetic stud sensors between drywall jobs.
Definitely agree on the use of roto-zip and after a few tries found I was much more accurate going in counterclockwise directin around box, keeps it from wandering out away from edge of box I think.
anyhow, thanks
I've done the lipstick, chalk or grease method but don't love it for two reasons -- it's a lot of up and down with that big panel pressing it against, taking it down and cutting and putting it back up -- wear and tear on me and the corners sometimes get bunged up. With the magnet thing you put it up once and screw it in and then find/cut out the boxes.
The other reason, and this is pure operator error on me, but I once managed to still get a mis-placed hole that had to be cut bigger to fit because the first time I put the sheet up to press against the lipstick it must not have gone fully into the corner, but after i cut it and put it up the second time it slid in a little farther, but then the box cutout was off almost 3/8". My bad. I don't do enough of this to be practiced/good at it I guess.
Tolyn it looks like they do have ones for round can lights and octo-boxes on homeDepot site but I didn't have any of those so went with the regular set. Which agreed is a little pricey at $35, but like I said kinda fun. And i discovered they make killer magnetic stud sensors between drywall jobs.
Definitely agree on the use of roto-zip and after a few tries found I was much more accurate going in counterclockwise directin around box, keeps it from wandering out away from edge of box I think.
anyhow, thanks
