Sub box is full. I need to install a 220 breaker
#1
04-06-15, 11:30 AM
Sub box is full. I need to install a 220 breaker
I brought a Cadet Energy Plus In-Wall Heater which uses 240 volts. I looked in my sub panel and there are no empty breaker spaces. What can i do to add another breaker? I have a 220 breaker that i use for my AC. Would my option be to connect the heater to that breaker being that I only use the AC for the summer and the heater for the winter and they both won't be on at the same time.
#2
04-06-15, 02:44 PM
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Wet side of Washington state.
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What is a "220" breaker? Do you mean a two-pole circuit breaker for use on 240 volts? What size is the circuit breaker for the air conditioning? What is the rating of the new electric heater? Who is the manufacturer of the electrical panel and what is the model number? This last you might find from the label inside the door or on a sticker inside the enclosure itself.
#3
04-07-15, 03:09 PM
What is a "220" breaker? Do you mean a two-pole circuit breaker for use on 240 volts?
What size is the circuit breaker for the air conditioning?
What is the rating of the new electric heater?
Who is the manufacturer of the electrical panel and what is the model number?
#4
04-07-15, 03:14 PM
The circuit breaker for the AC is 40 amps. 20 amps per pole
Do you have any tandem breakers installed on any 120 volt circuits? You may gain enough space if you move circuits to tandems. Then install the proper wiring and breaker for your heater. To answer your question, you won't be able to connect both your AC and heater to the same breaker.
#5
04-07-15, 03:48 PM
Join Date: Mar 2006
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Chandler's idea of using tandem CBs (if allowed on your panel) is a good one. As for:
it needs a bit of clarification. No, you cannot attach two wires to the circuit breaker connections but you could "pigtail" the wires from the heater and the A/C with a third wire run to the CB. Ideally, the heater should be on a 15 ampere circuit but with all #12 conductors you will be okay.
Chandler, this is one instance where two different appliances may be connected to the same CB. It is certainly not a preferred method but it is allowable.
To answer your question, you won't be able to connect both your AC and heater to the same breaker.
Chandler, this is one instance where two different appliances may be connected to the same CB. It is certainly not a preferred method but it is allowable.
#7
04-07-15, 05:32 PM
Nope, 40 amps per leg if it is marked 40 amps. If it is marked 20 amps, it is 20 amps total.
Do you have any tandem breakers installed on any 120 volt circuits?
No I don't think there are any tandem breakers installed.
I would be interested in moving circuits to tandem breakers. Do you think tandem breakers are allowed on my sub-panel?
#8
04-07-15, 05:41 PM
The cover panel will tell you if and where tandem breakers may be used. That will free up good space that you can use for your double breaker, which, BTW, is only 20 amps, which is good for your AC load. Any overcurrent condition that exists that approaches the trip load of 20 amps on either conductor will trip the breaker...both legs.
#9
04-07-15, 07:31 PM
Member
The cover panel will tell you if and where tandem breakers may be used
#10
04-07-15, 07:50 PM
The panel say I can use the following GE breakers: TQP,TQL,TQL-AC,TQAL-AC,THQL-AC,TXQL
Would anyone of those type breakers help me?
Would anyone of those type breakers help me?
#11
04-07-15, 10:48 PM
Join Date: Mar 2006
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I don't think so, I am not all that familiar with the small GE panels but I suspect that ONLY the THQP would give you more circuits and since it is not on the list of approved Circuit breakers it cannot be used in your panel.
Back to the original idea of feeding both the heater and A/C from the same CB as I described.
OR you could add a sub-panel by moving a two-pole circuit (or two single pole circuits) to the new sub-panel.
Back to the original idea of feeding both the heater and A/C from the same CB as I described.
OR you could add a sub-panel by moving a two-pole circuit (or two single pole circuits) to the new sub-panel.
#12
04-08-15, 03:20 AM
Okay it's looking like my dinosaur GE panel won't fit the THQP breakers.
How hard of a job would it be for DIY to replace the old sub panel with a new panel with more breaker spaces? I am thinking it should be easier being that there is a existing sub panel in place.
Furd idea of feeding both heater and A/C from the same circuit breaker seems like a easier job although not the preferred choice but if I went with this choice for now I need help in clarifying what has to be done to achieve this? I would take take both common wires from A/C and heater and wire nut them together with one single wire and do the same for the 2 hot wires then connect the 2 single wires to the breaker and connect the ground wire?
How hard of a job would it be for DIY to replace the old sub panel with a new panel with more breaker spaces? I am thinking it should be easier being that there is a existing sub panel in place.
Furd idea of feeding both heater and A/C from the same circuit breaker seems like a easier job although not the preferred choice but if I went with this choice for now I need help in clarifying what has to be done to achieve this? I would take take both common wires from A/C and heater and wire nut them together with one single wire and do the same for the 2 hot wires then connect the 2 single wires to the breaker and connect the ground wire?
#13
04-08-15, 03:25 AM
If your panel does not list the THQP as an approved breaker, then the thin breakers will not work. I do like the idea of a subpanel using the existing double slot to run from the main panel to power two separate breakers, one for the AC and one for the heat.
Our posts crossed paths.
I was under the impression this was a main panel, not a sub panel. Sure, you can install a new sub panel with more breaker space. How is it being fed presently? Is it surface mounted, or indented into the wall space?
Our posts crossed paths.
I was under the impression this was a main panel, not a sub panel. Sure, you can install a new sub panel with more breaker space. How is it being fed presently? Is it surface mounted, or indented into the wall space?
#15
04-08-15, 05:51 AM
Straight 240 things like A/C do not have a common wire. They have two hots.
I was under the impression this was a main panel, not a sub panel. Sure, you can install a new sub panel with more breaker space. How is it being fed presently? Is it surface mounted, or indented into the wall space?
It is indented into the wall space. To do this would it be simply as removing the old wiring from the old sub panel and connecting it to the new panel?
#16
04-10-15, 07:53 AM
To replace the existing sub panel with a new one would it be as simply as removing the old wiring from the old sub panel and connecting it to the new panel?
#17
04-10-15, 08:04 AM
Member
To replace the existing sub panel with a new one would it be as simply as removing the old wiring from the old sub panel and connecting it to the new panel?
#19
04-10-15, 01:58 PM
Or just put another subpanel in the stud space next to it.
I have to see being that the old box must be like 40 years old and I really only need one breaker space and maybe 1 or 2 in the future(I think)
