Wall Oven Wiring
#1
04-07-15, 02:51 PM
Wall Oven Wiring
Hi all, to start, I have not done any 240v wiring. We did a kitchen remodel and the contractor left this coming out of the wall:
From looking around on the web, I know that:
1. It should be a metal junction box
What I don't know is how do I attach this to my wall oven wires?:
I assume I strip each of the three wires but it looks like there are 5 wires within each of these wires, do these just stay together and treat them as one?
The oven has 4 wires which wires go to which and what kind of connectors do I use, huge wire nuts?
Thanks in advance.
From looking around on the web, I know that:
1. It should be a metal junction box
What I don't know is how do I attach this to my wall oven wires?:
I assume I strip each of the three wires but it looks like there are 5 wires within each of these wires, do these just stay together and treat them as one?
The oven has 4 wires which wires go to which and what kind of connectors do I use, huge wire nuts?
Thanks in advance.
#2
04-07-15, 03:22 PM
Not an acceptable situation. He must have just had this service entrance cable left over. It is aluminum, and you do not want it running inside your walls. Call him back and have him remove it and run the proper cable from your panel to the box for you to connect your oven. What is the amperage of your wall oven? Probably something like 30 or 40 amps.
#4
04-07-15, 03:37 PM
Do it once, do it right. Can you tell us what the size of wiring he left you? It should be on the cable sheath or on the individual wires.
#5
04-07-15, 03:47 PM
Unfortunately contractor skipped out and I am tapped, trying to make lemonade from something.
The part that is sticking out of the wall says 600watts but I don't see that it indicates the gauge. It is ~1" across the gray sheathing and the individual wires are 3/8" if that tells you anything.
The part that is sticking out of the wall says 600watts but I don't see that it indicates the gauge. It is ~1" across the gray sheathing and the individual wires are 3/8" if that tells you anything.
#6
04-07-15, 04:57 PM
How far is the run of this cable? Does it go down to a basement or up to an attic, or somewhere you can access it? Sorry for all the questions, but making lemonade takes more than lemons. 
#7
04-07-15, 05:16 PM
Member
Did he terminate it on a breaker in your panel? Check the size of the breaker if you can't find the cables label ,twist on connectors will not work with that size conductor
Geo
Geo
#9
04-07-15, 05:53 PM
Member
There is an option that may work,problem is space in the box for the connectors, it's probably going to take a6X6X6 box,how much slack cable is there at the box?it maybe cheaper and safer to pull in a new 10-4 cable and be done with it.
ILSCO PBTD-2-4 4-14AWG 600V AL OR CU INSULATED DBL TAP WIRE CONNECTOR - IARDeals
Geo
ILSCO PBTD-2-4 4-14AWG 600V AL OR CU INSULATED DBL TAP WIRE CONNECTOR - IARDeals
Geo
#10
04-07-15, 06:16 PM
I agree with using a deeper metal box so you can surface mount it and have a way for the flex to enter, as well as using some type of heavy connector such as Polaris to make the connections.
#11
04-07-15, 07:11 PM
Thanks, so new deep metal box and heavy duty connectors. How do these heavy duty connectors work? I strip say the red stripe wire in the SE cable and it goes in one side of the connector and the red copper wire from oven goes in the other hole of connector? Is there some type of mechanism on these connectors that I tighten to clamp down on wires?
Thanks again
Thanks again
#12
04-07-15, 08:06 PM
Group Moderator
Polaris connectors come in all different styles. The pic below is a three wire connector. You'll want a two wire connector. The three wire picture was just easier to see. The top caps pull out and the setscrews tighten with an allen key.
You'll want to also purchase a product called NoOx or NoAlox. It's a grease that is used on the aluminum wiring to reduce long term corrosion.
There are other connectors that you can use to join the copper and aluminum wiring. Just remember that the copper and aluminum cannot touch.
(actually if use Polaris connectors..... they come pregreased)
This is another style connector you can use. This type requires the Noalox and must be taped. The Polaris bugs don't require any tape.
You'll want to also purchase a product called NoOx or NoAlox. It's a grease that is used on the aluminum wiring to reduce long term corrosion.
There are other connectors that you can use to join the copper and aluminum wiring. Just remember that the copper and aluminum cannot touch.
(actually if use Polaris connectors..... they come pregreased)
This is another style connector you can use. This type requires the Noalox and must be taped. The Polaris bugs don't require any tape.
#14
04-08-15, 06:52 AM
Member
Why not run Aluminum in the the walls?is that a code violation?
Geo
Geo
#15
04-08-15, 07:07 AM
Forum Topic Moderator
With conductors that large I would not be surprised if some strands were clipped to make it fit the breaker.
I agree with running a new 8-3 cable. It will be cheaper than the Polaris connectors.
I agree with running a new 8-3 cable. It will be cheaper than the Polaris connectors.
#17
04-08-15, 12:45 PM
Check your oven installation manual, instructions or wiring diagram. If you can replace the flexible whip (metal sheath) with an aftermarket cord, then you would only need to install a 14-50R range receptacle on the SER cable and attach a matching cord on the oven. Range receptacles are rated for aluminum and would save you $100 in Polaris connectors....or just install the 8/3 NM cable and be done with it.
