Hello experts, I have a light switch in my basement which I need to disable and put a plain/flat cover on. The switch controls some lights that also have a switch at the entrance so this is just an extra on the other end of the room and I need to put some art over it so need the switch removed. I've read many different articles out there around how to disable/remove the switch and I am finding some conflicting info as well as confusing info as my wire colors don't align with some of the how-to's. So hoping you folks can help! What I do know is I need to put a couple of the wires together (once I remove them from the switch and put a wire nut on them (plus some electrical tape) to keep it continuous (is that the right term?). There is a bare copper wire inside the box where the 3 wires come from that are currently plugged into the switch (see pic below). My questions are: 1. I have a black, red and 3rd wire which I can't tell the color but it's wrapped in painters tape. Which two are the ones I need to put together and wire nut? 2. What do I do with the 3rd wire and also the bare copper one inside the box? Thanks in advance and apologies for the rookie questions. I'm a new home owner and learning the ropes... Daniel [ATTACH]49315[/ATTACH]

Note:I'm in Argentina power is 220/380 50hz Lights dim every single time the A/C motor starts. Can this be helped by anything on this side of the meter? I find the dimming to be quite annoying so if this can be fixed by changing something in the house I'd be very interested in doing it. The annoyance of the dimming lights however is substantially less than the satisfaction I get from paying $1/month + $.02/kwh. That happy price is predicated on the 15 minute average draw never exceeding 10kw. Maybe to ensure compliance the meter is wired with 6mm2 conductors and protected by a 32a (380v) breaker on the service side Would a hard start kit or soft start system or something of the sort make this better? When the AC starts up it makes a noise that sounds a bit like a car that was shifted without a clutch, I was worried that this was bad but the technician assured me this was normal. The A/C is a Lennox HS29 - 060 - 9M The label has the following electric info: [table="width: 500"] [tr] [td]Electric Rating[/td] [td]Nominal: 380/420 volts[/td] [/tr] [tr] [td]3 ph | 50 hz[/td] [td]Min: 342 | Max: 462[/td] [/tr] [tr] [td]Compresor(s): (1)[/td] [td]* Fan Motor(s): (1)[/td] [/tr] [tr] [td]PH 3[/td] [td]PH 1[/td] [/tr] [tr] [td]RLA 9.0[/td] [td]FLA .9[/td] [/tr] [tr] [td]LRA 64[/td] [td]Kw .249[/td] [/tr] [tr] [td]Min. Circuit[/td] [td]Max Fuse or[/td] [/tr] [tr] [td]Amps 12.2[/td] [td]Circ. Brkr 20[/td] [/tr] [tr] [td] *Fan motor tension: 460v[/td] [/tr] [/table] It's connected with 4x 4mm2 pvc insulated wires, (which local code rates at 25 amps) which are spliced at the air handler probably about 25ft away and then ran 28 ft to this breaker 25a and GFCI breaker which is connected to the 6mm wires from the service entrance (~65ft). Would switching to 6mm2 help or even larger? The run to the panel appears to be vertical with no bends so changing those cables would not be a unsurmountable task. Or is the solution in the lighting circuits? Is it easier to beef those up.