I would drop by one of the supply houses, except for the traffic, so wondering before I go if there is such a thing as an open end bushing for bx. I have and have seen fittings for bx entering boxes, but don't recall ever seeing a bushing to protect the wires from the cut end of bx that does not have threads for entering a box. In other words, for lack of a better word, the wires inside the bx will simply "dangle" out one end, and I just want to protect them from any cut edges.

I have replaced light switches several times in the past and never had a problem, however this time I found a setup that didn't make much sense to me. Generally the line switch comes from your power source, the load heads off to your fixture, and the neutral returns from your fixture, right? And in the case of a dual-switch you add in a traveler wire. There is also generally a ground that screws on to the outside of the switch. I am replacing a stock switch that came with the house in 91' with a smart switch that hooks into my iris system. Regardless of functionality, they both use a line in, load, and neutral wire. These slots are clearly marked on the new switch... not so much on the old one. What really confused me was the switch box behind the old switch. Three lines come into it, each with a black,white, and copper wire. All of the coppers are capped together and all of the whites are capped together. My old switch, as can be seen in this picture: [IMG]http://i.imgur.com/uNnZSaL.jpg[/IMG] [url]http://i.imgur.com/uNnZSaL.jpg[/url] Had 2 wires going into release holes and one going to a screw on the outside that appears to bridge the bottom release hole. Here is the new switch for reference: [IMG]http://i.imgur.com/3Y3wE1A.jpg[/IMG] [url]http://i.imgur.com/3Y3wE1A.jpg[/url] The switch does not have a second switch that controls the same lights, so there should be no traveler wire. The switch does however control 4 pot lights in my kitchen. Can anyone help me make heads or tails of this? Thank you!