bx bushing


  #1  
Old 04-17-15, 07:18 AM
A
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: U.S.A.
Posts: 1,902
Received 73 Upvotes on 66 Posts
bx bushing

I would drop by one of the supply houses, except for the traffic, so wondering before I go if there is such a thing as an open end bushing for bx. I have and have seen fittings for bx entering boxes, but don't recall ever seeing a bushing to protect the wires from the cut end of bx that does not have threads for entering a box. In other words, for lack of a better word, the wires inside the bx will simply "dangle" out one end, and I just want to protect them from any cut edges.
 
  #2  
Old 04-17-15, 07:45 AM
I
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Near Lansing, Michigan
Posts: 9,785
Upvotes: 0
Received 45 Upvotes on 43 Posts
You insert the little red plastic bushing between the wires and the metal spiral to protect them. A pack usually comes with a roll of BX, or hardware stores probably sell them in small packs.

 
  #3  
Old 04-17-15, 08:38 AM
A
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: U.S.A.
Posts: 1,902
Received 73 Upvotes on 66 Posts
Thank you. Those I have, and I also have the fittings that the bx goes into, but the fittings have male threads for going into a box. I don't need the threads, so could cut them off, but figured there might be something made for this. Maybe this will make more sense... I restored my 50 year old Delta Rockwell drill press over the winter, put it back together, and everything works fine. The wires between the switch and motor run through the head, inside bx. No problem at the motor, as that end accepts a standard fitting, but, at the switch, the bx just lays in the head and the wires stick out of it. Hasn't been a problem all the years past, so probably won't be going forward, but just have a hard time calling it good without some protection.
 
  #4  
Old 04-17-15, 09:04 AM
A
Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: USA
Posts: 4,449
Upvotes: 0
Received 266 Upvotes on 242 Posts
You will probably need one of those cast end fittings with the screw threads that fit into a box, to keep the red bushing from falling out. Usually you cannot use just the end fitting, with no red bushing, because the end fitting has enough play that the wires can still touch the rough edges of the BX sheath end.
 
  #5  
Old 04-17-15, 09:53 AM
A
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: U.S.A.
Posts: 1,902
Received 73 Upvotes on 66 Posts
Exactly. The only part that I need in this case is the red bushing, and I have those, but they obviously won't stay in place without the fitting. And it looks like the threads on the fitting could possibly come in contact with the terminals on the back of the switch, so was hoping to find a bare fitting with no threads. But enough time on it, and it's probably more than I need to do anyway, so think that I will just cut the threads off a regular fitting, round the edges with a rotary file, and move on. That should do it.
 
  #6  
Old 04-18-15, 07:29 AM
CasualJoe's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: United States
Posts: 9,839
Received 178 Upvotes on 161 Posts
Exactly what type cable are you working with? The term "BX" doesn't really apply to today's products, but was used to describe the old armored cables used in the 1950s and earlier. What you are using could be AC or MC cable which are the most common armored cables sold today. From the description of the problem, I believe what we call a Speed-Lok around here would fit the bill.

Raco 3/8 in. Flexible Snap-In Connector (5-Pack)-2800B5 - The Home Depot
 
  #7  
Old 04-18-15, 07:57 AM
A
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: U.S.A.
Posts: 1,902
Received 73 Upvotes on 66 Posts
Problem solved, and have the belt guard back on, so can't even see it to take a picture, but the drill press was made in 1964 I believe, and it sure looks like BX to me. They just used it as a chase, to get the wires from the motor to the switch, but it meanders through the head, not a straight shot, so makes sense that they used this rather than bending conduit to fit. I've had it for over 40 years, and don't recall ever having the switch out before, so assume it came from the factory with just a cut end. And that has not been a problem, but the cut end obviously has a bit sharp edges, so wanted to improve it a bit, then discovered a bit more of a pocket in the casting last night, so was able to fit a complete fitting in there, didn't have to modify it, and feel better about it now. Thank you all.
 
 

Thread Tools
Search this Thread
 
Ask a Question
Question Title:
Description:
Your question will be posted in: