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Grounding water pipes service panel and ground electrode rod question

Grounding water pipes service panel and ground electrode rod question

Old 06-21-15, 09:50 AM
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Grounding water pipes service panel and ground electrode rod question

Hello all. I purchased an old 1830 house and I am working my way through things. I have realized that the house isn't grounded. Origanally there was 600 feet of buried 3/4 copper pipe out to the spring. This I assume was the main grounding system. At some point t in time that pipe was pulled and poly was layed. At which time no one addressed the grounding issue. I have driven a grounding rod in 10 ft in nice moist soil which is about 5 feet from the panel. I am running solid 4 copper to the rod. My question is can I run from the panel to the interior water pipes, to the ground rod with one continuous wire or do I need to separate them. I couldn't find anything in the code about it as the grouND would still be a continuous wire.

My other question is I have 2 old grounding rods on each corner of the house that is attached to lighting rods on the roof and one heavy copper braid in to the copper plumbing of an isolated unused well. Do I need to connect all the grounding rods to my main service rod? The well plumbing is loose in the wall so I doubt it is a very good ground at all.
Old 06-21-15, 10:24 AM
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The other old grounding rods with things attached to them need to be bonded* to the ground rod that is connected to the panel neutral bus bar. Use #6 copper wire (as a grounding electrode conductor), preferably running around the outside of the foundation. Attach the new GEC to anywhere along the original #4 ground wire (also a GEC).

(From the panel to ground rods did not need to be #4; #6 would have done there too.)

From the panel to one ground rod needs to be splice free (or with special approved splicing means such as crimp rings); you already have this.

Normally two ground rods are needed. If you did not have the second and third pre-existing ground rods you would have needed to add another, at least 6 feet from the first.

The basement cold water plumbing, if metal, should be bonded to the electrical ground (to anywhere along the aforementioned GECs would do). Without any metal water pipe exiting the house underground, it does not matter where along the plumbing this #6 wire (a bonding jumper) is attached. Also add a #6 bonding jumper across the hot outlet and cold inlet of the water heater, and add a similar jumper across the inlet and outlet of the water meter.

* Make an essentially resistance free connection with, in the sense that if A is bonded to B (perhaps a wire) and B is bonded to C then A is bonded to C.

Last edited by AllanJ; 06-21-15 at 10:49 AM.
Old 06-21-15, 10:31 AM
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You can use two conductors, one to the well and the other to the rods.

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