Conduit connecting to light and outlet box.

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Old 06-26-15, 12:02 PM
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Conduit connecting to light and outlet box.

Hello!

I am installing an outside light off our covered porch. The light will be on the door header (outside) and the power will be coming through PVC conduit from an outlet (inside).

For the light, what is the best way to go from the conduit through the header wood?

Also, what is the best way to go from the conduit to the outlet?

(I can't figure out a good way to get the wire through the wall and header to connect to the outlet and light. I can poke a hole and then push them through, but the conduit just ends without connecting to the light fixture or outlet box.)

Thanks for your help!
Regards,
Leaning

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  #2  
Old 06-26-15, 12:33 PM
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For the inside portion, you can use a wiremold surface raceway conduit. They make an extender box that will fit over the existing receptacle box and allow you to remount the receptacle and continue on to the light location with surface raceway. Above the doorway, bore a hole through to the outside, run a conduit nipple through the wall into the back hole of an exterior round box. Use another wiremold box above the door on the inside to terminate both the wiremold raceway and the nipple to outside.
 
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Old 06-26-15, 12:34 PM
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Conduit

Your post is a bit confusing. Will the interior conduit be surface mounted?

The conduit connects to the boxes with connectors.

You will drill through the wood header to get the conduit to the outside light.
 
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Old 06-26-15, 03:54 PM
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ibpooks: Thanks! I didn't know about the raceways. I like that it looks like it will have a smaller profile than the 1/2" PVC conduit I was looking at. I posted new pictures which hopefully show all the parts you recommended. I still am confused about the conduit nipple. Where can I find those? It's threaded at both ends with a screw-on ring type thing, right? Lengthwise, it only needs to be the width of the header (3-1/2" + enough threads on both ends to screw the rings on). ??

Wirepuller: Surface mounted. When I paint it brown, it'll blend with the porch. I was going to use conduit, but didn't know how to encase the whole wire in conduit without gaps at the beginning and end. It looks like raceways is where I was heading.

Regards,

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Old 06-26-15, 04:04 PM
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ibpooks: Another question: Are raceways approved for outdoor use? (This covered porch is considered to be "outside".)

Regards,

Leaning
 
  #6  
Old 06-27-15, 10:49 AM
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The Wiremold box in post #4 for the light cannot be used, it isn't weatherproof. You need a weatherproof box like this one.

Bell Box, Weatherproof, Gray 5361-0 | Zoro.com

Are raceways approved for outdoor use? (This covered porch is considered to be "outside".)
The porch would be a damp location. You should not have a problem using a Wiremold raceway there.
 
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Old 06-27-15, 07:53 PM
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Hmmm, everything I am finding says that surface metal raceway (like Wiremold) is only permitted in dry locations. I think I am going back to metal with a 1-1/2" deep extender (like RACO 653) on the receptacle, EMT and elbows up to a box with switch, more elbows and conduit, then a handy box on both sides of the wood header with a 1/2" x 4" conduit nipple though. That way, everything is encased in metal with no gaps from the receptacle to the light. That should do it. Thanks all for your info and ideas!

Regards,

Leaning
 
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Old 06-28-15, 04:53 AM
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How good are you at bending conduit? Why not use pvc, then paint it? I'd use an LB at the top rather than a sweep, and an LL at the receptacle box. Is that receptacle box surface mounted?
 
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Old 06-28-15, 12:04 PM
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Chandler,

The receptacle box is flush-mounted. My original plan way back when was to use PVC, but 1) I couldn't find a extender ring made from PVC to use on that receptacle, and 2) the elbows (sweeps) just look bulky to me compared to metal. I've never bent conduit, but I can learn and doing that would eliminate the elbows.

My other option is to use flexible liquid tight conduit which would avoid the elbows also. I'm going to paint everything anyway which will hide it all, but I want to make it look good.

No hurry so I'm taking a couple of days to overthink, plan and re-plan, and learn, and then it's time to put it all together.


BTW, what's an LL??

Regards,

Learning
 
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Old 06-28-15, 03:08 PM
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Does someone make an EMT elbow that is compression on both ends?? (conduit to conduit)
 
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Old 06-28-15, 04:04 PM
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It won't matter that the extension box is metal or pvc. Use this extension ring on your receptacle box, use male adapters, short pieces of pvc, then your LB or LL then run pvc. Much easier than bending conduit by a novice. You'll need to brush up on trig a little. Red Dot, 1-Gang Flanged Electrical Box Extension, S127E at The Home Depot - Tablet

Actually an LR would work better. http://t.homedepot.com/p/Cantex-1-2-...650/202043273/
 
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Old 06-28-15, 04:59 PM
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Does someone make an EMT elbow that is compression on both ends?? (conduit to conduit)
Just use compression connectors or couplings, whatever you need. EMT elbows do not come with the fittings. You porch is a damp area (under a permanent roof), setscrew fittings are acceptable there. Compression fittings are raintight and therefore used outside in wet areas.
 
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Old 06-28-15, 05:29 PM
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All,


Here's what I decided to go with. Maybe this help someone not have to start from scratch.
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Chandler: I am too anal to mix materials. Using PVC connectors on a metal extension ring would bug me.

Casualjoe: IDK, there seems to be more negative than positive (esp. Mike Holt's site) about using set-screw EMT connectors in damp locations. (More "do not" than "do"). So I am going all compression so there's no question. (I like the small set-screw elbows, though as opposed to a larger EMT sweep with two compression fittings on each end.)

I appreciate everyone's help! Good thing EMT's only $1.75-ish for 10-ft so I can learn/practice my bending. Off to the hardware store! Out!

Regards,

Leaning
 
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Old 06-28-15, 06:03 PM
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Jiminy Cricket. Mixing a metal box and pvc won't cause them to have babies!! I'll check back in after you have a round or two with a bender. Oh, you have figured that cost in, too, right??
 
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Old 06-28-15, 07:30 PM
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All,

Rev 2 of my picture. (Receptacle already has a weathertight cover. New switch needs one, too.)

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Chandler: Just preference, I guess. AFA the bender, I've several friends who have them and have previously used them, but I'd still like to give it a go. And I would have to add that cost in to buy/rent if I couldn't borrow.

Anyway, I'm good to go, I think.

Have a good one and thanks again!

Regards,

Leaning
 
  #16  
Old 06-29-15, 07:31 AM
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My bad on the wiremold recommendation, I thought your porch was enclosed with windows. Looks like you're on the right track now.
 
  #17  
Old 06-29-15, 12:11 PM
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Ben,

Yeah, it's screened in and you can't really tell from the pictures. I should have made that clear in my original post. I still like how small Wiremold is and if I could, I would use it for this. Thanks for your help!

Regards,

Leaning
 
  #18  
Old 06-29-15, 12:34 PM
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They do make plastic surface raceway so it should stand up to wet conditions. Might actually hold up longer then EMT if shielded from direct sunlight or perhaps painted. Conduit is not considered watertight at least under ground. If THWN was used I see no difference between PVC surface raceway and buried conduit (except possible UV degradation). If it is not forbidden by NEC or manufacturers instructions I wonder if it would work (AHJ permitting). Just a thought.
 
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Old 06-29-15, 01:04 PM
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I'm not really worried about the conduit, but the wiremold boxes are definately not weather resistant. One good storm and the box would be full of rain.
 
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Old 06-29-15, 01:28 PM
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One good storm and the box would be full of rain.
And therein lies a major flaw in my thinking. So as Roesanna Roseanna Danna would say, "Never mind".
 
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Old 06-30-15, 07:47 AM
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Rev 2 of my picture. (Receptacle already has a weathertight cover. New switch needs one, too.)
You should add a plastic insulating bushing on each end of the rigid conduit nipple.
 
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Old 07-02-15, 11:37 AM
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Thanks!

CasualJoe:

Thanks for that! I didn't know about those, but from what i am reading the NEC does require those bushings to protect wires from scraping against the metal conduit edge. I had to update my picture and make another hardware store trip. Thanks for the info! Good stuff!

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Regards,

Leaning
 
  #23  
Old 07-02-15, 03:14 PM
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You'll need two lock nuts on each end of your 4" nipple, one inside and one outside each box
 
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Old 07-09-15, 11:37 AM
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Don't your boxes have holes in them?
 
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Old 07-10-15, 06:51 PM
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It looks to me like all the boxes have knockouts. Why do you ask?
 
 

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