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Can I use this timer to run Two 1.5 HP pumps on two separate 220 breakers

Can I use this timer to run Two 1.5 HP pumps on two separate 220 breakers

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  #1  
Old 07-16-15, 06:45 AM
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Can I use this timer to run Two 1.5 HP pumps on two separate 220 breakers

Hi, I am considering buying this timer:

http://www.intermatic.com/~/media/In...eries-4pgs.pdf

Can I use it to runTwo 1.5 HP pumps that are on two separate 220 breakers? I am thinking that might be a very stuipid idea to combine two breakers now that I write this. But that is the question.

Also, for safety reasons, which is safest. It talks about Type 1 steel, type 3R steel and plastic covers. I know type 3R is for outdoor, but is plastic safer?
 
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  #2  
Old 07-16-15, 06:52 AM
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Two breakers (for example to control or feed 40 amps worth of power using two 20 amp breakers) may never be combined in parallel.

From the timer specs I say you can run the two pumps, one on each of the controlled switches in a dual switch timer. Use the diagram at the lower left, where the controlled switches (terminals 3 and 4, and terminals 5 and 6) are not connected to each other. This will not combine the breakers or circuits

The timer clock motor (terminals 1 and 2) can be powered from one of the two circuits in question or from a third circuit.
 

Last edited by AllanJ; 07-16-15 at 07:37 AM.
  #3  
Old 07-16-15, 08:56 AM
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Ok, so eventhough it is rated for 2HP, i can put two 1.5HP pumps on there at 220 each because they are segregated in the timer itself? Yes?

Also is plastic better than type 3R steel from a safety perspective?
 
  #4  
Old 07-16-15, 09:35 AM
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i can put two 1.5HP pumps on there at 220 each because they are segregated in the timer itself?
Yes, if there are two 2 pole switches. and the link says there are.

Tech note: Your nominal voltage is 240 not 220.
 
  #5  
Old 07-16-15, 07:32 PM
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The timer would only need to interrupt one leg of the 240 volt circuit to control the pump(s). Of course, each pump is required to have a disconnect the disconnects all ungrounded conductors (hots).

There is no difference in between steel or plastic. I like steel myself.
 
  #6  
Old 07-19-15, 12:03 PM
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All Thanks,

@Iron, thanks I got the steel one.
@Ray, or anyone, so I am ignorant here. When we say 220 breaker it actually has 240V? Why is that, need a quick lesson here.
 
  #7  
Old 07-19-15, 12:37 PM
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When we say 220 breaker it actually has 240V? Why is that,
Nominal supply voltage to your house is 240 volts not 220. It hasn't been 220 in most areas for probably more then seventy years.
 
  #8  
Old 07-19-15, 12:52 PM
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Thanks. another question...

The directions say, hook it up as shown if its SPST (single pole single throw) or like this if it is DPST (double pole single throw). How do I know if the pump I am running is SPST or DPST?

I am sure this is obvious, but Greek to me right now.
 
  #9  
Old 07-19-15, 02:23 PM
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A 120volt pump is always SPST because only the hot is interrupted and there is only one hot (neutral is never interrupted).

A 240 volt pump has two hots so either or both can be interrupted. Only one hot needs to be interrupted and that is often done if there is a two pole disconnect in sight. I'd suggest 2-pole since that is the manufacturer's instructions*, you have them, and it is safer.. (Leaving one leg hot you still have a potential of ~120 volts should you touch that leg while you are touching ground.)

*You should always follow manufacturers instructions if possible.
 
  #10  
Old 07-19-15, 03:33 PM
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Sorry, I went and took photos of the label, see below. I am a little confused now. The timer has 4 settings, 120V, 208V, 240V, 277V. The label say 208-230/115 at 60hz. So, should I set the timer to 208V or 240V4? And then, based on the photo of the label, should i set to SPST or DPST? I think you are saying DPST, just double checking. I am not as strong in sparks and magic.... Thanks so much for your guidance...

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Last edited by caliskier; 07-19-15 at 04:08 PM.
  #11  
Old 07-19-15, 04:36 PM
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The timer motor (I think it was terminals 1 and 2) is set to the supply voltage for the timer circuit. If you use one of the pump circuits to feed the timer than it would be set to 240.

The pump switches (terminals 3 and 4 and terminals 5 and 6) do not have or need a voltage selection.

Use the SPST setting to control the pumps independently.

If there is a DPST setting then with it both pump switches go on simultaneously and off simultaneously.
 
  #12  
Old 07-19-15, 05:15 PM
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I am only going to run this one pump for now. Sorry for the confusion i am causing. I just need to know how to hook up this one pump to this timer.

Do I set the timer to 208V or 240V?
Do I wire it as DPST or SPST?

Thanks and sorry for my confusion.
 
  #13  
Old 07-19-15, 06:47 PM
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Set the timer for 240 volts.

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  #14  
Old 07-19-15, 08:21 PM
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Thanks again for holding my hand, I think I know what to do from here... BTW... I think i figured something out here. Dual Pole Single Throw. The Dual Pole part of that phrase, is that referring in some way back the breaker where it is a dual or double pole breaker (220 breaker)?
 
  #15  
Old 07-19-15, 08:27 PM
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Yes, 2-pole 240 breaker. Poles refer to the number of ungrounded conductors (AKA hots). 240 has two ungrounded conductors therefore 2-pole breaker. 120v is one ungrounded conductor (plus one grounded conductor, neutral) so only one pole.
 
  #16  
Old 07-19-15, 08:27 PM
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Dual pole means two poles. Single throw means off or on. Technically you should switch a 240v pump with a dual pole timer so that both legs are disconnected since you have two hot legs.

Ray's diagram is correct.
 
  #17  
Old 07-19-15, 08:33 PM
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Ray and PJ, You guys are awesome!!
 
  #18  
Old 07-20-15, 06:08 AM
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Note: When you add the second pump you may not connect it to the same terminals as the first pump keeping the timer wiring the same. That will burn out the timer switching.

You would have to reconfigure to the Single Pole Single Throw setup (as two separate switches) with one wire to each pump switched and the other wire to each pump always connected and live.
 
  #19  
Old 07-20-15, 05:37 PM
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I may not do that for a while, I actually bought this thinking someday I might buy a second pump for chlorine injection, but I do not have that now. I take it from the help I have received thus far that doing that is unsafe in some way, is that correct?
 
  #20  
Old 07-20-15, 05:51 PM
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So long as you have a two pole disconnect in addition to the timer and remember there is a one wire hot even when the pump is off it isn't that unsafe but you could use the timer to control two two pole contractors for more safety.
 

Last edited by ray2047; 07-20-15 at 10:03 PM.
  #21  
Old 07-20-15, 08:55 PM
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Ok Ray I hooked it up like the diagram you were pointing to… Help… The timer will not turn on the pump, it is getting power, I hear it click, but nothing going to the load side. Using a voltage tester, when I flip the switch on to the top position the pump runs, the two line in wires (they are red) do not have power, one of the load wires, in the 4 position has power, the other load wire in the 6 position does not have power. When I flip the switch to the middle, none of the wires have power, when I flip the switch to the lower position, I hear a click, but nothing and the two red wires (position 1 and 2) have power. What am I doing wrong?
Also, this may be a coincidence but, when I power the pump, now it seems to struggle for a few seconds before running, it did not do this before.
BTW, I removed the jumpers (because the voltage is not 240 for the load, it is 208 to 230.

Thanks again for the help.
 
  #22  
Old 07-20-15, 10:10 PM
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Using a voltage tester
If you mean a non contact tester it can't actually be used for real testing. You need a multimeter, preferably analog.
removed the jumpers
The jumpers or necessary for it to work. It must be exactly as shown in the diagram.
it is 208 to 230.
Which means it runs on 240. Often the manufacturers screw up the voltage they print in descriptions just as you said 220.
 
  #23  
Old 07-21-15, 03:31 PM
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I paid an electrician $200. I had it hooked up correctly, the flip switch was faulty and was hooked up wrong to begin with by the previous owner. The timer would have never worked.

So $120 for timer, $200 for labor, it will pay for itself by the end of next pool season.
 
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